Top accessable climbing areas in the South

I'm taking a road trip across the south of the US with someone who doesn't climb. I'm starting in LA and headed to Maryland, mostly taking I40. Does anyone know any good climbing areas that can be accessed by rapping in (or where I could scramble to the top) for me to set up tr solos?

They don't need to be bolted anchors or routes (in fact I'd love to get on some harder cracks) I know how to set up gear anchors. Also the raps don't need to be trivial, I have plenty of experience redirecting complex rapels. 

I'm mainly looking for routes in the 5.12+ through 5.14- range but really anything to get my fingers on rock. 

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch could be a great option

Mark Vigilwrote:

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch could be a great option

There is no top access there.  All the routes have to be lead first.

If you're willing to deal with a bit of shenanigans, there's a trail that runs along the full length of both the top and bottom of North Clear at the Obed, which is about 30 mins north of I-40. You'd have to do some scouting to know what route you're getting on but it would be doable in various spots. Same goes for Foster Falls, easy access to the top more or less - that one is more like 90 mins off I-40 though.

A lot of that rock is steep though, especially in that grade range.

A lot of the more popular routes have permas on them, so with a stick clip you can also get to chains fairly easily and set up a TR that way.

HMU if you want more detail (or potentially a partner) 

Pilot Mountain and Rocky Face,  NC 

Sunset Park in Chattanooga has a ton of top access with bonus points for hard crack.

Andrew Jacksonwrote:

Pilot Mountain and Rocky Face,  NC 

Looking at pilot mountain, is it possible or reasonable to bushwhack to the top of the amphitheatre? Black and velvet seems like a fun line.

Benton Hodgeswrote:

Sunset Park in Chattanooga has a ton of top access with bonus points for hard crack.

Sunset seems sick! It seems like anything hard is a little too steep to reliably tr solo but the beast and space ranger seem like sick lines! Might try to get on the banshee as well though I realize that the route is somewhat ruined with a tr considering the headyness is gone

Just boulder bro, more time to hang with the non-climbing homie

Sandrock, you can rappell off the top. Anything in the dreamscape area should float your boat.

Jeremiah Whitewrote:

Sandrock, you can rappell off the top. Anything in the dreamscape area should float your boat.

Agreed, dreamscape area is great, not much quality hard though, mainly considering it's a solid 2+ hours off of I-40

If you're in i-40 through az there's a ton of columnar basalt near Flagstaff, around the overlook, paradise forks, volunteer canyon 

I second the I-24/I-75 detour and pick-up Foster Falls and Sunset Park.  

Liam Kaplanwrote:

Looking at pilot mountain, is it possible or reasonable to bushwhack to the top of the amphitheatre? Black and velvet seems like a fun line.

Top access is restricted at much of Pilot. There are lots of things you can  top rope but pretty sure the amphitheater has no legit top access anymore. 

Crowder Mtn in NC

I have only been there once but my impression is that it would be hard to set top ropes without knowing the lay of the land 

Raven Rock near Hendersonville, NC. Plenty of 5.12s. Quality climbing and top access. Make sure to fill out free waiver if you go for the gate code: https://carolinaclimbers.org/civicrm/event/info?reset=1&id=3 

Also, The Dump, near Boone, NC. 5.12s and 13s here.

Both areas are accessible post Hurricane. 

Thanks for all of these great suggestions! I'm happy to deviate fairly far off of I40. I'm just mainly taking that route because I'm driving in December and looking for minimal snow and better climbing climates.

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Just boulder bro, more time to hang with the non-climbing homie

Can't boulder, my back is fucked from a serious car accident. Hitting the ground fucks me up big time, even in a gym

Jeremiah Whitewrote:

Sandrock, you can rappell off the top. Anything in the dreamscape area should float your boat.

What state is sandrock in? I can't seem to find it on MP

AL

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105905418

Good top access for sure, very short approaches

it’d be testy in December but there are some decent top roping options in the nrg as well as a lot of bolt ladders to aid up to set up trs.  Also at risk of sounding like an asshole. Have you thought about using partner finder I’ve had some great success on there and it’s always fun to meet new people.   Also depending on your relationship with non climbing partner It’s pretty easy to train someone to top rope belay and if you have them keep you tight and use a gri gri or similar it’s pretty easy to feel pretty confident without much training.  This could be a real timesaver for you.