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Your favorite 12a trad routes in the greater Tahoe area?

Original Post
Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

Looking for recommendations! 12- on gear is historically my favorite grade, but outside of Monkey Paws, it doesn't seem like there's a ton of the grade around Tahoe that see much traffic. I've added plenty to my to-do already just from searching around on MP, but I'd love some personal recommendations in the low 12 range.

Already intermittently working on Bellbottom Blues (close!) and Dog Party (not that close!). Will check out Ten Minute Crack when the temps drop ...

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 17

You don't gotta get so crafty if you just wanna spray about your proj's dawg

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

I'm far too mediocre to spray; it's a genuine question. 

Tyler Shopshire · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 81

Not 12a so it won't help if you are grade chasing but have you done Space Walk and Full Moon?

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

Space Walk I tried once, fell at the top. Loved it and want to go back for the RP! Gotta try that chasm thing too.

Full Moon I have not tried and wasn’t on my list! Cheers for that. 11+ and 12- generally feel about the same to me in terms of time/effort/difficulty, there’s just a lot more of the former than the latter around town for whatever reason.

Dave Stallard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 0

You ever use the route finder to generate a list? I just tried Tahoe/Trad only/3+stars/ 11d-12b and got a pretty good list. I've done this for trips to new areas to find the goods.  I do generally ignore routes on the list that only have 1 or 2 ticks/ratings, that usually means the FA is overstarring their own routes.  

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

I have looked up just that Dave, which is how I found not a ton. There’s a small handful, and then there’s a lot with three or four total ratings. I’ve posted a bunch of climbs that I love (not FA’d) on MP that I consider great but have few other reviews, but I know there’s an equal amount of not-so-good filth in the mix. That’s kinda why I made this post — to get firsthand advice/recommendations!

It’s interesting. When I lived in Chattanooga, there were 20+ excellent 12- trad routes within 25 minutes of my apartment. Include 11+ and 12b and that number triples. Then, there’s 10x as many routes in Tahoe total, but seemingly far fewer of the grade. Different rock obviously, but just not a problem I expected to encounter 

Dave Stallard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 0

Gotcha.  Well maybe add Batman't Nightmare at the Leap and Northern Lights at the Loaf to your list. Happy hunting!

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

Both look great, thanks Dave. 

Also, hope I didn't come across as too negative above -- I'm stoked about a bunch of local routes! 

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

It was recently recommended to me that I revisit this thread and update with some of the routes I've check out in the last year or so as a potential resource for other climbers. So with that in mind, here are some 11+ to low 12 trad routes around Tahoe I really enjoyed, off-the-beaten path or otherwise:

Freak Show 11+ at Lover's Leap: Boulder-y overhanging crack with great gear and clean falls. On the short side but still makes ya work. 4/5 stars
Bird Man 11+ at Sugarloaf: I'm inclined to call this one 12- personally, but it's an excellent 40m pitch of thin face climbing either way. I was somewhat nervous about potential runouts on the OS, but the bolting/gear placements are friendly enough. 5/5 stars
Finger Eater 11+ at Cosumnes River Gorge: This is a serious lead, and it will cut your fingers up. That said, I'm stoked to have done it after some brushing and TR rehearsal, don't think it sees much action at all. 3/5 stars
Pigeons on the Roof 11+ at Woodfords: It's so cool! Do this route! A boulder problem off the ground, then a cool roof, then an overhanging slot, then some highly physical steep crack climbing. Unexpectedly sustained in the second half. Try it! 5/5 stars
Full Moon 11+ at Donner Summit: A short crux that still feels bold and very sequential. Rad corner climbing. 5/5 stars -- Thanks Tyler!
Little Miss Manners 11+ at Woodfords: I loved this route! It's a much easier top rope than lead, but having to work for the thin, good gear is very enjoyable and adds some calf endurance to the mix. 5/5 stars
Stranglehold 
12- at Woodfords: I'll confess to downgrading this corner crack (it's more like 5.11 IMO), but it's a really enjoyable corner all the same. The first time in my entire life I've found a Bill Price FA to be soft. I'm much more accustomed to the opposite! 4/5 stars
Kingfisher 12- at Eagle Lake Cliff: I don't feel like this route gets done hardly ever, but it's quite good. A bolt protected boulder problem leads to an exciting ballnut/brass nut/tiny cam protected lieback and face section. Short but worthy. Safe if you know your small stuff, I went ground up without eating shit. Try it! 4/5 stars
Hooker's Haven 12- at Sugarloaf: Deceptively awkward crack climbing to a corner crux, very body english climbing. Good fun, quick hit. 4/5 stars
Ten Minute Crack 12b at CRG: Man, this thing was irritatingly hard. The best finger lock/jug you'll ever find yourself unable to advance from. Great easy access winter training route though. 3/5 stars
Stormtroopers of Death 12 at Woodfords: Fuck this route is so cool! Powerful crux and then power endurance for a while. Good gear. Dan O the legend!! 5/5 stars 

If anyone wants to work Stormtroopers with me this month, shoot me a message. Otherwise, happy flailing!

Mad Farm · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

Panic definitely counts as a 5.12 in Tahoe, but I didn't mention any of the Snowshed routes in my lil recap because they're the ones everyone does! Obviously great routes though.

Mad Farm · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
Andrew Richardsonwrote:

Panic definitely counts as a 5.12 in Tahoe, but I didn't mention any of the Snowshed routes in my lil recap because they're the ones everyone does! Obviously great routes though.

I'll keep thinkingggg

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,569

I tried Silly Willy once a year ago and left mentally and physically abused   

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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