Your favorite 12a trad routes in the greater Tahoe area?
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Looking for recommendations! 12- on gear is historically my favorite grade, but outside of Monkey Paws, it doesn't seem like there's a ton of the grade around Tahoe that see much traffic. I've added plenty to my to-do already just from searching around on MP, but I'd love some personal recommendations in the low 12 range. Already intermittently working on Bellbottom Blues (close!) and Dog Party (not that close!). Will check out Ten Minute Crack when the temps drop ... |
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You don't gotta get so crafty if you just wanna spray about your proj's dawg |
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I'm far too mediocre to spray; it's a genuine question. |
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Not 12a so it won't help if you are grade chasing but have you done Space Walk and Full Moon? |
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Space Walk I tried once, fell at the top. Loved it and want to go back for the RP! Gotta try that chasm thing too. Full Moon I have not tried and wasn’t on my list! Cheers for that. 11+ and 12- generally feel about the same to me in terms of time/effort/difficulty, there’s just a lot more of the former than the latter around town for whatever reason. |
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You ever use the route finder to generate a list? I just tried Tahoe/Trad only/3+stars/ 11d-12b and got a pretty good list. I've done this for trips to new areas to find the goods. I do generally ignore routes on the list that only have 1 or 2 ticks/ratings, that usually means the FA is overstarring their own routes. |
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I have looked up just that Dave, which is how I found not a ton. There’s a small handful, and then there’s a lot with three or four total ratings. I’ve posted a bunch of climbs that I love (not FA’d) on MP that I consider great but have few other reviews, but I know there’s an equal amount of not-so-good filth in the mix. That’s kinda why I made this post — to get firsthand advice/recommendations! It’s interesting. When I lived in Chattanooga, there were 20+ excellent 12- trad routes within 25 minutes of my apartment. Include 11+ and 12b and that number triples. Then, there’s 10x as many routes in Tahoe total, but seemingly far fewer of the grade. Different rock obviously, but just not a problem I expected to encounter |
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Gotcha. Well maybe add Batman't Nightmare at the Leap and Northern Lights at the Loaf to your list. Happy hunting! |
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Both look great, thanks Dave. Also, hope I didn't come across as too negative above -- I'm stoked about a bunch of local routes! |
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It was recently recommended to me that I revisit this thread and update with some of the routes I've check out in the last year or so as a potential resource for other climbers. So with that in mind, here are some 11+ to low 12 trad routes around Tahoe I really enjoyed, off-the-beaten path or otherwise: Freak Show 11+ at Lover's Leap: Boulder-y overhanging crack with great gear and clean falls. On the short side but still makes ya work. 4/5 stars If anyone wants to work Stormtroopers with me this month, shoot me a message. Otherwise, happy flailing! |
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Panic definitely counts as a 5.12 in Tahoe, but I didn't mention any of the Snowshed routes in my lil recap because they're the ones everyone does! Obviously great routes though. |
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Andrew Richardsonwrote: I'll keep thinkingggg |
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I tried Silly Willy once a year ago and left mentally and physically abused |




