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New and experienced climbers over 50 #30
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That looks great Guy. Must feel so good to be able to be 'back in the saddle' again. Where is that climb--definitely an interesting-looking bit of rock? |
 Some crack, very nice. Brad could tell you . . . Photo: Ann T. |
 Photo: Ann T. |
 Homeward bound Photo: Gregory M. |
philip bonewrote: Actually, Phil could have told you. I gave him the whole nearly-inch-thick printout to this new area (rock as good as anything in The Valley or The Meadows and no-one's there...except us). But as predicted, he gets a general idea of what's what, gives the printout away to friends, and then just hops on stuff that looks like a route. Sigh. He doesn't even mark his routes off or keep track of stuff. Inconceivable. And yet he seems to have tons of fun anyway. How is that possible? Edit: That one's called Sleep Good Tonight. Joel did the first ascent. |
Alan Rubinwrote: It was many years ago when I went there my only time, but I'm guessing Malibu Creek State Park. |
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Gud one Guy.. I find it pretty funny that I now project 5.9.... |
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the first crux.  |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: Looks burly Nick |
Guy Keeseewrote: That rock really looks bizarre and fun, Guy. Where is it? (Maybe you said and I haven’t been paying attention.) |
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Guy. It has holds and the rock is grippy so I can get up it ok. The crux at the top is another over lap with a finger crack through it but the rock is slippery up there and the feet suck so it's pretty burly and I haven't gotten it clean yet. Probably 9+ ;) |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: Can you get a picture of the entire climb? Looks pretty cool! |
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It is the north east. Lots of shrubbery... |
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I’ve been reading along Nick’s posts and everyone else’s. I’m just enjoying them so much. Phylp, I hope you take the time to tell us where all you went. it’s nice to know you guys are traveling, Climbing, new routes and enjoying yourselves. I have been out nearly every day for the last three months and mostly confining myself to a thin slice of this park. Every day it’s different and I have not begun to explore Joshua Tree in general. But I’m documenting the movement of the sun and the shade and the various snakes and bugs, the blooms. I’ve been obsessed with this rock for several years. It’s called stargazer and you don’t see it from any trail. You have to get above it. No one seems impressed by the rock or the climb. Todd Gordon told me it was “not my favorite route.” I’ve never seen anyone near this rock. And yet anytime I’m in the area I wonder if today is the day I can at least get to the base.  I finally found a probable approach and I think the key is to wear long pants and kneepads and carry my Garmin. Of course, a partner with a short rope would be so helpful. 
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Lori, great photos and meanderings. I went out to my project after work today. no camera with me but this time i only brought my harness, shoes and a wire brush. its literally 10 min from my house and a dead easy approach with an almost empty pack. All I had to do was put my shoes, helmet and harness on and thread the gri gri on to the fixed rope. I could get used to this. I wonder how long you can leave a rope fixed before it needs replacing??? this rig is pretty physical for me and my back has been bothering me so not shure how good it is over all but its fun as heck. cruised right up to the last 15ft and then got my but kicked pretty hard again. It's some kind of Daks 9+. Havent gotten it clean yet. |
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Oh, I envy you, Nick. You write as though it’s all second nature and I guess it is. I still think of you and Issa in some kind of field of wild blueberries after a long climb? This new route has gotcha it sounds like. So glad you get to be working on it. I run into pictures of me from time to time and I’m thinking so much about age lately. I wonder what the fuck I was thinking joining a climbing gym to learn from scratch at the age of 65. I guess at the time it seemed quite normal but tonight none of this seems normal. Outdoor climbing seems even more… inappropriate.  Colden seems not to approve of indoor climbing. While I was out hiking, I suddenly got a mental image of an indoor urban fishing hole stocked with trout. They could even be very hard-to-catch trout. That way Jan and Guy could take a little test to get their fishing cards, and fish three or four days a week right close to home in a bonafide cement pond. That way they would not have to pack all their shit into 14 1/2 pound backpacks, deal with mosquitoes and hike on god awful long trails. |
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Lately I’ve been almost exclusively bouldering indoors, and almost exclusively on roofs. I’ve also been lifting weights and ingesting protein shakes. I just need to lose my terrible belly fat and I might be able to actually climb stronger! Here I’m linking two roof problems together and then trying to reverse them to the beginning. I’m committed to going to The Blue Mountains in October and I’m feeling somewhat trepidatious about it.
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Carl Schneiderwrote: It looks like the green problem is one big move up and over? We have a similar sport climb at my second home gym. Certainly losing weight would help there? Is the green intended to be a mantle up and over to the slab? That seems to require athletics! Hold that dead point to a sloper edge and toe hook in opposition! Doing planks could certainly help!
Anyone who thinks the economy is important to his potential future administration isn’t paying attention to the project plan laid out by his minions. They had just about destroyed it last time around. What the wealthy don’t seem to get is that they need a strong middle class. Every time there’s been an economic boom, it was the middle class that spearheaded it through spending and investing. When the middle class suffers, the economy suffers. Moderates get to decide.
Agree! Absolutely! |
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The golden basketball shoes Trump was peddling a while back were a real hoot and yes, it's a sad place to call home these days! Consumerism and stupidity are spreading like an uncontrollable disease. |
Brandt Allenwrote: Oh no it’s knot. That place is so 25 years ago, now packed with climbers waiting in line to get “the send”…. The latest stuff is a product of the meeting of the Pacific plate and the North American plate, about 10 miles from the San Andreas fault. My geologist friends tell me this area is loosely called a geological island… a big old chunk of the earth’s crust that has stayed in place, relative to the surrounding crust. And rotated several times, turned over a few times. At one time a giant river was here, catching the gold on its clay bottom that eroded from a giant mountain range- I think you east coast folks are climbing on the worn down nubs of that Mt. Range..? But we are climbing on real stone I assure you, Granite chunks mixed together with some orange clay, and held together by solid mud…. In short California Pure Choss - an acquired taste. Later all |
