Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2

You don't need to equally load 2 bolts if each bolt can hold 20+kn and you weigh less than 1 kn.  The second bolt is only a backup in case something unexpected happens with the first bolt.  Like you said, less rope twisting, and only one wear component to replace

The only one wear component is a big deal in the long run.  Instead of two components that wear at the same rate and therefore fail as nearly the same time the climber has on practically new wear component when the main wear component wears and and fails because everyone is too lazy to maintain an anchor.  I especially like connecting the wear component with a quick link to make maintenance easy.  Sadly I have had people stealing the quick-link and ring so I have had to start using lock tight to prevent the thefts. 

Vertically stacked anchors often have less metal overall and are cheaper to install.

The rope pull is almost always much easier and has much less twisting of the rope.

And last but not least they are what the cool people are putting in now. :)

Thanks. All makes sense and now I  know how to finally be cool. That IS important. ;-)

a beachwrote:

In the second photo I am thinking I should have rotated the hanger a bit or placed it on  the left? But I also don’t think it really matters.

When you weigh the rope the quicklink and ring on the bottom right bolt will want to move toward the left, which will guide them to flip over, which will twist the rope. It stems from the shape and angle of the hanger. If you had a choice, should have put the bottom bolt on the left side like you said.

Nathan Pwrote:

One of my favorite simple, closed set ups!

Vertical >> horizontal 

Heliodor Jalbawrote:

When you weigh the rope the quicklink and ring on the bottom right bolt will want to move toward the left, which will guide them to flip over, which will twist the rope. It stems from the shape and angle of the hanger. If you had a choice, should have put the bottom bolt on the left side like you said.

Gotcha, so I could rotate the bottom hanger a bit to compensate or add some chain.

a beachwrote:

Gotcha, so I could rotate the bottom hanger a bit to compensate or add some chain.

I don't think there's any way to truly win this one:

- for the quicklink to not flip over when loaded, you'd have to rotate your hanger clockwise 90 degrees. People will look at it weird and confused.

- adding extra chain is more visual impact compared to what you have now

- I'd move the bolt to the other side, push the existing bolt into the wall (hopefully you drilled some extra space in the back) or remove it if possible, and cover the hole with gray plumbing epoxy putty:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-Plumbing-2-oz-Putty-Epoxy-025598/100165318

Option #3 is way less visual impact than the second option. It will cost a few dollars but so does adding stainless steel chain. Option #1 should work but will look weird.

Mussys opposed?  The horror! 

Erroneous Publicuswrote:

Mussys opposed?  The horror! 

People have been turning my gates out mussys into opposite opposed in the creek

a beachwrote:

Gotcha, so I could rotate the bottom hanger a bit to compensate or add some chain.

Or switch the lower hanger to a different hanger with an eye that's not directional (Bonier Dupla, Raumer Anellox, etc) or a hanger with a welded ring like the fixe ring anchors (lots of hanger manufacturers offer a similar ring hanger):

Jim Daywrote:

Or switch the lower hanger to a different hanger with an eye that's not directional (Bonier Dupla, Raumer Anellox, etc) or a hanger with a welded ring like the fixe ring anchors (lots of hanger manufacturers offer a similar ring hanger):

Oh that’s easy enough, good call. I have some of the basic ring anchors like the bottom fixe one you linked. Or I might just swap it, wouldn’t be the first hole I patched 

Rebolting an old route with rusty bolts and a single bolt anchor.  First I put in the half inch sleeve bolt to hang from, and then core drilled all the rusted spinner 3/8 sleeves with a 16mm core drill.  8mm twist bolts fit perfectly in the resulting holes.  Offset anchor with an e-rigging 3/8" stainless carabiner from when they were on sale for $4 as the wear point.  They are a bit stiff to clip, so I have a Kong stainless carabiner below that's easier to clip.  It's retained with those SMC stainless wire retainers so I only needed two total quicklinks.

bmdhackswrote:

Rebolting an old route with rusty bolts and a single bolt anchor.  First I put in the half inch sleeve bolt to hang from, and then core drilled all the rusted spinner 3/8 sleeves with a 16mm core drill.  8mm twist bolts fit perfectly in the resulting holes.  Offset anchor with an e-rigging 3/8" stainless carabiner from when they were on sale for $4 as the wear point.  They are a bit stiff to clip, so I have a Kong stainless carabiner below that's easier to clip.  It's retained with those SMC stainless wire retainers so I only needed two total quicklinks.

FYI the solid gate springs rust out faster than wire gates in the wet! 

Fixed pins availability can be annoying though, I've definitely used some solid gates for that reason. How'd you like the SMC captive eye wire keeper & what size did you get?

Shawn Swrote:

FYI the solid gate springs rust out faster than wire gates in the wet! 

It's stainless, no?  

https://www.kong.it/en/product/indoor-bent-gate/

Says 316 stainless, and the spring steel inside the gate is non-magnetic.  The pin is mildly magnetic, maybe 304?

Fixed pins availability can be annoying though, I've definitely used some solid gates for that reason. How'd you like the SMC captive eye wire keeper & what size did you get?

The SMC wire keepers are flawed in that you have to bend them to get them over chain, and they tend to snap at the weld or at least mar with any toothed pliers when you bend them.  SMC has discontinued them because they didn't take off, but I managed to get a few from a generous friend for rebolting projects.  Useful though because I really like those Kong carabiners.

Yea the carabiner body is listed as 316. I am talking about the spring that exists inside the gate itself that allows the gate to actuate. Those are typically made of a spring steel (non stainless?) and as they internal to the gate they retain moisture so they are more prone to rust, which can ultimately cause gates to get crappy sooner than a wire gate. 

Good to know about the keepers!

bmdhackswrote:

the spring steel inside the gate is non-magnetic.

Shawn Swrote:

I am talking about the spring that exists inside the gate itself that allows the gate to actuate. Those are typically made of a spring steel (non stainless?) 

The magnet sticks to the spring on a Camp plated steel carabiner, and also to some generic spring steel I have lying around, but it doesn't stick to the spring steel in the Kong carabiner.  I suspect that they're using spring-tempered 301 stainless for the spring in this carabiner, but I'm definitely interested if anyone has experience with these specific carabiners rusting.

On another note, I've tried to epoxy in a stainless steel retainer pin on these Kong carabiners using some SteelStik putty but it didn't adhere very well.  Anyone got any strong opinions on what adhesive I could try instead?

BHCC <3

What glue-ins are those Doug? Look beefy! 

Nathan Pwrote:

What glue-ins are those Doug? Look beefy! 

https://climbingboltsupplies.com/product/stainless-steel-solid-leg-glue-in-anchor/

https://climbingboltsupplies.com/product/stainless-steel-solid-leg-glue-in-anchor/