New and experienced climbers over 50 #30

M Mwrote:

Seeing bad advice sometimes is a trigger for some folks, myself included. 

Gabe, you picked a hot weekend to visit Downeast Maine! We had two days in the 90s in June that was nastier than this but man o man Maine keeps getting hotter every year. I fully chilled in the ocean today, a first for me here, usually it's lakes that are acceptable temps for me. Hopefully you found some shade, it wasn't too humid today.

Exactly why I thought using a 40m rope where 45m minimum is required, and not using the recommended method of belay was not a good idea. Then I got set about by a bunch of overly defensive folks.

Cheers.

New route 35 m. Thin vertical middle section. 10+ 

Still a ways to go.
photos: Ann T.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

 On an interesting side note my harness fell off in a squeeze chimny 130ft off the deck today...

LOL!

Glad you managed the situation!

Oldtradguywrote:

Finished

John

Nice work John (and Jean). Looks great.  

Brad Youngwrote:

Brad, what lovely pictures!  Looks like you have your own private stream. I’d be walking it, too!  And beautiful dogs. It’s idyllic.

Regarding proper belay techniques it would be cool if there were short videos of the various kinds you describe. When I climbed in the gym, no one was using a gri gri. We had an ATC device.  Here in Joshua Tree I use the gri gri Second or third generation? I can’t think of the name. But I do know that when I’m out with Bob, if I wasn’t doing a regulation belay I would be hearing about it.  

It must’ve rained last night because everything is a little damp here and there are a lot of fresh holes in the ground. I am so curious to know what goes on down there.  I have seen tortoises, chipmunks, lots of lizards, tarantulas, and a few snakes slither on down those holes.

I’ve moved on to the Stones and first song this morning starts “what a drag it is getting old“. Of course, I think at the time Mick was referring to 30 something mom‘s.    But I don’t know… Is it a drag?

I need to bring a lawn chair to my cave area. Gimme Shelter.  it’s just a shot away. Takes a whole new meaning.

I’ve tried a number of times to get to frontal lobotomy and there’s just a awful lot of boulders and quite a few bees. But I’m almost there and pretty fascinated by that long stretch of slab.

Seems if you just catch a new angle you have brand new things to go see. What is this?

This fits.  

Lori Milaswrote:

I’ve moved on to the Stones and first song this morning starts “what a drag it is getting old“. Of course, I think at the time Mick was referring to 30 something mom‘s.    But I don’t know… Is it a drag?

The song is called "Mother's Little Helper." It's a reference to Valium.

FrankPSwrote:

The song is called "Mother's Little Helper." It's a reference to Valium.

Thanks, Frank.  I did know that!  

So much of the music I've been listening to this summer has taken on fresh meaning.  But actually, it isn't a drag getting old!  Turns out, it's kind of fun.  

Lori Milaswrote:

Thanks, Frank.  I did know that!  

So much of the music I've been listening to this summer has taken on fresh meaning.  But actually, it isn't a drag getting old!  Turns out, it's kind of fun.  

You must be doing something right! 

GO

GabeOwrote:

You must be doing something right! 

GO

I've been thinking about this a lot.  Just heard from one of my friends today who has slowed down greatly, and can no longer get out for his hikes. He's close to done.  My best friend just sold her house and moved in with her niece in Colorado. They've put her up in a back bedroom with her little dog.  She's done.  We went out with an older couple last night, and they have pretty much stopped with workouts.  Those around me are too tired, and everything hurts...it's just harder and harder for them to exercise or do much to feel better.  I'm just full of compassion about this... no judgement. But it's a lesson for me to fight hard against that.   

If things go the 'normal' way for us, of slow and persistent decay with age, there's no turning back it seems.  So, I'm determined to do whatever I can not to let this happen.  I get up every morning now, have coffee and some kind of breakfast, and head on out the door.  That first mile (of hiking/roaming) is never very fun. But then the fresh air takes over, and a little endorphin surge, and life gets good.  

This book, Younger Next Year, was shoved at me by my doctor, back in 2010.  I rolled my eyes and said I didn't need it.  But I got a little desperate, brought my lawn chair to the lake, and read it in one full sitting.  It remains the most important book I have ever read.

Here's an excerpt:

""The best way to get into this new life is to take a deep breath, make a profound resolution and jump in, full tilt, for life.  Do it as dramatically and with as much fanfare as you can muster.  Get your partner on board. Tell everyone you know. Open a great bottle of wine. Whatever it takes.  Because, let's face it, this is not easy.  It's the most important thing you can do, but it's not easy.  ... Don't decide to 'try it for a few days'.  That won't work.  Think about it hard for as long as you need and then jump in for the rest of your life.  With ruffles and flourishes." 

"We urge you NOT to start gradually.  It is far better to make a sharp break with  the past and a serious commitment to the future.  Make this your new job.  Your single most important job.  .. One of the great things about the 'go to work' honor your commitments habit is that it's a great prioritizer.  Work trumps everything except serious illness or family.  Daily exercise should be treated the same way. If you're going to have success with this excellent new life, you're going to have to give regular exercise that priority.  Which may be hard."  

So, for me, this is the mindset I carry.  When in doubt whether I feel like climbing, hiking, or exercising... I ask myself if I would show up for a job today.  If so, then I can exercise.  And I ALWAYS showed up for my job.    

Lori Milaswrote:

I've been thinking about this a lot.  Just heard from one of my friends today who has slowed down greatly, and can no longer get out for his hikes. He's close to done.  My best friend just sold her house and moved in with her niece in Colorado. They've put her up in a back bedroom with her little dog.  She's done.  We went out with an older couple last night, and they have pretty much stopped with workouts.  Those around me are too tired, and everything hurts...it's just harder and harder for them to exercise or do much to feel better.  I'm just full of compassion about this... no judgement. But it's a lesson for me to fight hard against that.   

If things go the 'normal' way for us, of slow and persistent decay with age, there's no turning back it seems.  So, I'm determined to do whatever I can not to let this happen.  I get up every morning now, have coffee and some kind of breakfast, and head on out the door.  That first mile (of hiking/roaming) is never very fun. But then the fresh air takes over, and a little endorphin surge, and life gets good.  

This book, Younger Next Year, was shoved at me by my doctor, back in 2010.  I rolled my eyes and said I didn't need it.  But I got a little desperate, brought my lawn chair to the lake, and read it in one full sitting.  It remains the most important book I have ever read.

 

Here's an excerpt:

""The best way to get into this new life is to take a deep breath, make a profound resolution and jump in, full tilt, for life.  Do it as dramatically and with as much fanfare as you can muster.  Get your partner on board. Tell everyone you know. Open a great bottle of wine. Whatever it takes.  Because, let's face it, this is not easy.  It's the most important thing you can do, but it's not easy.  ... Don't decide to 'try it for a few days'.  That won't work.  Think about it hard for as long as you need and then jump in for the rest of your life.  With ruffles and flourishes." 

"We urge you NOT to start gradually.  It is far better to make a sharp break with  the past and a serious commitment to the future.  Make this your new job.  Your single most important job.  .. One of the great things about the 'go to work' honor your commitments habit is that it's a great prioritizer.  Work trumps everything except serious illness or family.  Daily exercise should be treated the same way. If you're going to have success with this excellent new life, you're going to have to give regular exercise that priority.  Which may be hard."  

So, for me, this is the mindset I carry.  When in doubt whether I feel like climbing, hiking, or exercising... I ask myself if I would show up for a job today.  If so, then I can exercise.  And I ALWAYS showed up for my job.    

  

 

If I only went (climbing, biking, kayaking) when I really felt like (climbing, biking, kayaking), I would never go  (climbing, biking, kayaking).  Getting up and out the door is definitely the key for me.  especially those cold winter days. 

We meandered over to Franconia notch yesterday. its been about  a decade or so.. thought we might climb the Eaglet, that little pointy thing on the right skyline just barely above the tree line

it's a pretty cool 180ft  pillar with the top 40ft being free standing.  On the hike up a party coming down told us the que was about 10 parties.  A few min later another party came down bailing because of the crowd. theres plenty of cliff up there so we meandered over to the left and did a long easy slabby approach pitch that gets you to some krumoltz and eventually the start of Rt 66 . That big dihedral up the center of the cliff. 

BINTD we used to run up this pitch like it was nothing. Even did it in the fog one time trying to get to one of our projects.  We did a pretty cool ground up FA of Scenic Loop5.11b which is just what it sounds like. A left turn at the top of P1 of RT66 and a nice loop up a buttress and some cool corners before coming back to the anchors at the top of P1 of RT66 .  Me a million years ago hand drilling bolts and pounding pins so that the Girl could get her FFA

anyways yesterday Rt66 kicked my butt. its seen very little traffic lately. the bolts need replacing and there quite a bit of vegetation in the finger crack which adds to the spice. It took me a long time to get brave enough to get to the 2nd bolt because the fall is really bad onto a pointy rock. then I had completely forgotten that there is a wide section up there and only had a single #3 and no #4. That big blue is about a mile below my feet and it's sling is over 20 years old...  so it took awhile to get up the mojo to bust those moves.. 

Isa motored right up and wanted to know what took so long..

the next pitch is a wide crack through a small roof and without that #4 it was an easy choice to bail. After some snacks and a short hike we found that the start of the Eaglet was free. I guess I was pretty slow on that 5.8...  Isa scampered up the 1st pitch and I took the chimny. My harness was sagging but i was too lazy to readjust it and get squared away before my lead. i have no hips and  my rig riding low is a constant annoyance. anyways i learned my lesson. worming my way up the squeeze chimny I wormed right out of my harness and was somewhat concernedly gripping it with my claves trying not to loose the whole mess. I got a decent stance still in the chimny but could brace my back against the wall and free up both hands to get things sorted out... and the made short work of the rest of it.  Isa in about the spot that I had to pull my pants up. 

we heard voices and it turned out that somehow there were 4 people on the tiny summit so Isa had to wait for them to rap and pull the ropes

finally the coast was clear.

it's tight up there.

the swim in echo lake felt Really Good. 

Tim Schafstallwrote:

If I only went (climbing, biking, kayaking) when I really felt like (climbing, biking, kayaking), I would never go  (climbing, biking, kayaking).  Getting up and out the door is definitely the key for me.  especially those cold winter days. 

This is so true. Though the weather here is seldom a big inhibitor.

For me, just preparing to get out the door creates the momentum to get going.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

anyways yesterday Rt66 kicked my butt. its seen very little traffic lately. the bolts need replacing and there quite a bit of vegetation in the finger crack which adds to the spice. It took me a long time to get brave enough to get to the 2nd bolt because the fall is really bad onto a pointy rock. then I had completely forgotten that there is a wide section up there and only had a single #3 and no #4. That big blue is about a mile below my feet and it's sling is over 20 years old...  so it took awhile to get up the mojo to bust those moves.. 

Sounded like a great but 'emotional' outing, Nick.  I am envious.
That looked spooky to me for sure.  I got a little less nervous when I realized you are on doubles.  Something about always worried about single rope getting sliced by a a sharp flake.  Probably irrational but it is there for me.

Randywrote:

This is so true. Though the weather here is seldom a big inhibitor.

For me, just preparing to get out the door creates the momentum to get going.

Getting on a few new routes have always given me the motivation.  Even if they are at an outdoor destination I have been to hundreds of times.
The motivation just gets greater with less familiarity.  A stellar new destination in a country I have not yet visited is the ultimate motivation to train and be laser focused.

Neoh I just find it a bit weird and disconcerting that I totally forgot what gear I needed and had to work so hard for this climb that I used to be able to hike with little effort... and I am only 62... yes I prefer half ropes for adventure climbing. so many more options for protection and self rescue. 

New climbs at the gym, but I tired myself out doing roof climbs before the setters cleared the area.

One V4 was move for move really easy for me, but after 15 moves under the roof, my heart nearly exploded.

Fell off a V2 under a roof and cut feet two times before completing it   

Got a few more V6 moves under the roof. That was my high point in an otherwise miserable climbing session.

Tweaked my finger on a 5.12- I’d been working. Lightly tweaked my injured shoulder attempting a dyno move on a 5.11 before seeing there were holds on the other side of the arête.   

By the end of the session, I was falling off of 5.10. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Neoh I just find it a bit weird and disconcerting that I totally forgot what gear I needed and had to work so hard for this climb that I used to be able to hike with little effort... and I am only 62... yes I prefer half ropes for adventure climbing. so many more options for protection and self rescue.

Strength and the will. We’re like “classic cars”.   

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Neoh I just find it a bit weird and disconcerting that I totally forgot what gear I needed and had to work so hard for this climb that I used to be able to hike with little effort... and I am only 62... 

Keep fighting the good fight, Nick.  I am a few months older than you! :) 

Li Huwrote:

New climbs at the gym, but I tired myself out doing roof climbs before the setters cleared the area.

One V4 was move for move really easy for me, but after 15 moves under the roof, my heart nearly exploded.

Fell off a V2 under a roof and cut feet two times before completing it   

Got a few more V6 moves under the roof. That was my high point in an otherwise miserable climbing session.

Tweaked my finger on a 5.12- I’d been working. Lightly tweaked my injured shoulder attempting a dyno move on a 5.11 before seeing there were holds on the other side of the arête.   

By the end of the session, I was falling off of 5.10. 

Strength and the will. We’re like “classic cars”.   

I had a routine visit with my primary physician yesterday, and I had a few questions regarding general health and fitness. He shrugged his shoulders and said “we honestly don’t know. You teach us.” so all the malarkey we’ve been persuaded to believe about aging is just guess work. When I wonder should I sleep more, sleep less , rest more, take a recovery shake, etc. I am always saying “let’s just try it and see“.  I keep waiting for the other shoe to drop, but it ain’t dropped yet.  

So keep on pushing it, Li Hu!  

I’ve been watching this kid on Instagram under “Cadillac dirtbag“ who is been on the road climbing for at least a couple of years and is having the time of his life. This pic showed up yesterday and it must be the same formation that Rich and Bob posted recently. Oh my goodness.

Lori Milaswrote:

I’ve moved on to the Stones and first song this morning starts “what a drag it is getting old“. Of course, I think at the time Mick was referring to 30 something mom‘s.    But I don’t know… Is it a drag?

I need to bring a lawn chair to my cave area. Gimme Shelter.  it’s just a shot away. Takes a whole new meaning.

At the 25th Anniversary Rock and Roll Hall of Fame concert, Bono and U2 were covering Give Me Shelter, joined by Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas.  Incredible.  Then Mick comes out to join.  Simply the best rendition of this epic song.  It's on youtube.