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Black Canyon: Suggestions for a lone climber on a family roadtrip?

Original Post
JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,538

I am on a family roadtrip with my son and dad (non-climbers; cannot rappel or belay).  We are planning to go 'see' Black Canyon tomorrow.  I am bummed that i dont have anybody to climb with, but I do have a rack and rope with me.  Wondering of there is any routes that would be worth rapping into and toprope soloing out of, just to do something other than gawk.  Also interested in any bouldering around.  We are staying in Montrose.  I guess guidebooks arent cool anymore, We stopped at a few different outdoor retailers and couldnt find anything. I am assuming there is good info to be found in the town of Gunnison itself, but it appears the highway between Montrose and Gunnison is closed.  I guess this makes Hartman Rocks is out of the question as well.

Let me know if this is a silly question. Not familiar with the area but am an experienced climber.

Thanks!

Aaron K · · Western Slope CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 442
JD Borgesonwrote:.  We are staying in Montrose.  I guess guidebooks arent cool anymore, We stopped at a few different outdoor retailers and couldnt find anything. 

Go to Surf and Cycle, they have the local guidebooks. The Black isn't really the place for a casual top rope solo sesh. Could be wrong though if someone with more specific info wants to chime in on the secret TR solo spot on the south rim.

There are a few boulder problems along the south rim, I haven't done them.

There is a chossy local bouldering area, and Dry Creek would be a good place to bang out lots of TR solo laps (the stuff on MP is only about 25% of what's out there) if you don't mind the long 4wd drive. But it'll be hot during the day!

Skyeler Congdon · · Western Slope · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 3,358

Check out the route Last Payment on the Alimony Wall for a casual tr solo session. Totally doable. You can scout that whole face from the left side of the Painted Wall Overlook, especially if you download Steph Abegg's topo. The nice thing about tr sololing that route is it actually has really good climbing in the last 60m, whereas most rim pitches in the Black are lower quality. Also, you can skip the crux if you want for some fun face climbing out right. It gets AM sun but goes into the shade pretty early. Kinda hot right now but whatever, I've climbed in the Black every month of the year and its never too bad ;) 

Same parking as the Marmot Rocks bouldering area, which is not amazing but maybe worth a session if youre already there. Some fun problems.  They used to have a pamplet guide at the visitors center. 

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,538

@Aaron thanks for the advice, I will check out Surf and Cycle.  I know the black has that reputation; I figured it was a slim chance.

@Skyeler That sounds perfect, thanks for the beta!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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