LRS system idea amd question

I've been using the Grigri cache loop method and it's fine. I don't like that the Grigri eats whatever's in the cache. 

I am thinking I want to use a backpack.

Is the friction from backpack-through progress capture-to Grigri, enough to activate it?

Is there a device that I can control the friction. Maybe something that pinches the rope incrementally with a screw or something essentially to still allow the rope to feed with some resistance but when falling will engage the Grigri

I use the Grigri backpack method and have battled with this problem quite a bit.  In general the easiest solution is to just use backup knots (tie slip knots every 10 feet while packing the rope),  this video has a great demo :  

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BzJZSLhjPm0&ab_channel=MatthewHunter

I have heard that the friction from passing through the pack/progress capture is very likely enough to trigger the Grigri.  However, I personally wouldn't trust my life to it. It becomes especially worrisome in an inverted fall where the grigri needs more of a pull to activate.  There is also a very interesting video from Yann Camus about how gravity tugging on the cache loop is likely enough to trigger the grigri catch :

https://youtu.be/ibel2NgcmcA

For my set up, I got sick of the knots and have attached a Petzl ASAP to the backpack which will trigger if the rope moves too fast to essentially act as a break hand for the grigri. Just beware, the ASAP has teeth and can potentially break your rope if it takes a direct FF2.

Wiled Horse wrote:

Bot

How is he a bot?

Tim Hankswrote:

I use the Grigri backpack method and have battled with this problem quite a bit.  In general the easiest solution is to just use backup knots (tie slip knots every 10 feet while packing the rope),  this video has a great demo :  

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BzJZSLhjPm0&ab_channel=MatthewHunter

I have heard that the friction from passing through the pack/progress capture is very likely enough to trigger the Grigri.  However, I personally wouldn't trust my life to it. It becomes especially worrisome in an inverted fall where the grigri needs more of a pull to activate.  There is also a very interesting video from Yann Camus about how gravity tugging on the cache loop is likely enough to trigger the grigri catch :

https://youtu.be/ibel2NgcmcA

For my set up, I got sick of the knots and have attached a Petzl ASAP to the backpack which will trigger if the rope moves too fast to essentially act as a break hand for the grigri. Just beware, the ASAP has teeth and can potentially break your rope if it takes a direct FF2.

Thank you for the info, that's an interesting video, the tests I have done have never been with more than a couple feet of rope in my cache, and ultimately bled it all on falling.

I looked at the asap, it's pretty pricey tho

Andrew Havranekwrote:

I've been using the Grigri cache loop method and it's fine. I don't like that the Grigri eats whatever's in the cache. 

Are you saying the gri gri is failing to grab the rope and you're just falling until your backup knot catches you?  If that's what you're saying, there's something off with your setup, it shouldn't do that at all.   I've taken several big and small falls on a LRS gri gri and it always catches essentually immediately.  Maybe you're using the wrong rope?

Or do you mean the cache loop is backfeeding through the gri gri and then forming a big loop of slack at the bottom?  If that's the case, then you need to employ some sort of backfeed prevention tactic (like everyone has to use) such as slipknots, kleimheist slings on pieces, rubber band shenanigans, etc.

Sam Skovgaardwrote:

Or do you mean the cache loop is backfeeding through the gri gri and then forming a big loop of slack at the bottom?  If that's the case, then you need to employ some sort of backfeed prevention tactic (like everyone has to use) such as slipknots, kleimheist slings on pieces, rubber band shenanigans, etc.

Sam, you didn't mention the Gromm. How dare you. 

Also I'm hardcore on team backpack. Y'all device managed cache loop motherfuckers will see me on your team when hell freezes over. 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Sam, you didn't mention the Gromm. How dare you. 

Also I'm hardcore on team backpack. Y'all device managed cache loop motherfuckers will see me on your team when hell freezes over. 

Sorry, is the Gromm similar to the Avant Climbing’s devices that go on a quick draw biner to prevent the anchor side of the rope from building slack on the anchor side of your LRS device?

I found repacking the rope backpack on long days to take a lot longer than just cloving enough loops for the next pitch, plus I like having a pack that I can actually put some weight in while climbing (so I can spread my weight over climbing pack, jugging pack, and tag/haul).

But if you're just doing a few pitches or doing single pitches off the ground, the backpack setup right is really nice and less snaggy. I always tied backup knots in the pack (usually further and further apart as the pitch progresses.

TThurmanwrote:

Sorry, is the Gromm similar to the Avant Climbing’s devices that go on a quick draw biner to prevent the anchor side of the rope from building slack on the anchor side of your LRS device?

The Gromm is the predecessor to Avant's device; the Avant device is a new refinement of the Gromm.

Jack Kellywrote:

I found repacking the rope backpack on long days to take a lot longer than just cloving enough loops for the next pitch, plus I like having a pack that I can actually put some weight in while climbing (so I can spread my weight over climbing pack, jugging pack, and tag/haul).

But if you're just doing a few pitches or doing single pitches off the ground, the backpack setup right is really nice and less snaggy. I always tied backup knots in the pack (usually further and further apart as the pitch progresses.

If you're tagging and hauling that makes a lot of sense. I also don't use any trailing stopper knots but rather two devices for redundancy, so that may be part of why I find it less time consuming.

I use grigri + and rollnlock in blocking direction with release line and backup knots. It works with backpack, dont work so well with free hanging line (weight of rope removes cash loop).

Im thinking about second rollnlock to prevent this effect and use free hanging line.

Heavy backpack isnt a good idea I think?

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