Definition of "body english"

I can find no explanation of this term that gets thrown around occasionally to describe some sort of climbing technique. Most uses seem to assume the definition is self-evident as well, but it is not evident to me. So what is "body english." And also, what is the origin of this term?

Using non obvious, sometimes tricky features or movement that put your body in a strange position which somehow holds well enough. Climbs which require good body English are often less about strength and more about beta or flexibility or manipulating your center of gravity well. No idea on the origin, though I don’t think it’s a term unique to climbing.

bei rui wrote:

I can find no explanation of this term that gets thrown around occasionally to describe some sort of climbing technique. Most uses seem to assume the definition is self-evident as well, but it is not evident to me. So what is "body english." And also, what is the origin of this term?

Great question!

As far as I know it’s a term from billiards. It means putting a little extra spin on the cue ball. From that definition the climbing analog seems intuitive.

I could be wrong though!

I think Connor's definition is more or less right. To me it means using friction and balance to hold positions and move out of them in surprising and inventive ways. Body English is the opposite of pulling straight down on incut holds: body English means twisting to use a hold in the only direction it's good in; pressing on slopers; using knees, elbows, hips, shoulders; it's any move where you fall not because your fingers open up but where the rock ejects your whole body into space. Granite (especially smooth, polished Yosemite granite) and Wingate sandstone are the two rock types that I think most often require body English.

The question about the etymology of the term is a good one. I can think of two plausible derivations:

1. English is a language, and "body language" is phrase for communicating with your body. So "body English" is using your body to speak the language of the rock. or something like that.
2. "English" is the term for the spin you put on a cue ball in pool to make it stop, bend, or generally go where you want. So "body English" is contorting or spinning your body like a cue ball. 

Anyone know if these are on the right track?

Body English is a term commonly used in English vocabulary back when schools actually taught kids stuff and before peoples vocabulary’s were reduced to that which is necessary to facilitate a text.
Meaning; reading one’s own body to unconsciously make a movement or action with precision or in climbings case, to usually unconsciously use subtle movements to control or keep balance.

If you go to France it will not work on most climbs.

Great term.

I believe the definition of body english is "The Quarryman"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674&t=266s

Most people don’t have it and have no clue what they’re doing. Just pulling and whatever. 

There's never been any doubt in my mind that this use of the word "English" in climbing is derived from its use in billiards and pool. It's what you do when a more straightforward technique just won't do. 

edit: That vid of Dawes doing Quarryman blows my mind every time I see it. That move at 05:55 is just wild! 

Body English? It’s easy to spot, no mistaking it when you do. It’s when there’s a little spit in your eye and your elbow is all greasy. Aye, laddy, you’ll feel the fire in your belly and there’s a tingling in your giblets. You’ll know. Aye, you’ll know.

Think of body english as using your core muscles and your hips to shift your weight. The fatter you get the more important it will become.

I forbid you to watch this video until you first watch the link Ryan Surface posted above to the one and only Johnny Dawes climbing Quarryman. Only then may you watch the self described "weak old man" give a lesson in body English.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWZvANy2zqo

It's in the dictionary...

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/body%20English

So in climbing it is generally used to refer to things done with the body besides the normal grabbing of handholds or standing on footholds. I think the Jonny Dawes vid of Quarryman Ryan posted is a great example, but it's not just stemming, pretty much any move that seems impossible at first but with practice or a good sense of balance/awareness one might simply move up to the next stance despite the lack of obvious holds/features/moves. Happens a lot on steep granite IME, also certain basalt column areas, though I'm sure there are some great examples on other rock types.

Try the first couple pitches of Crescent Arch in Tuolumne. Good primer for understanding body english