How Long Are You Allowed to Rest on a Ledge to Still Qualify as a Send

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send.

If you never leave the ledge, you never blow the redpoint

Mike-Mayhem wrote:

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send.

You may rest as long as you need to. Even take a nap, eat lunch or have a smoke.

Why do you ask? 

As long as you fucking want

Not that it particularly matters, but I think the standard for a redpoint is simply "don't weigh the rope". Taking this to the limit, I vaguely recall stories from British climbers who would climb up a couple pieces, place them, downclimb to the ground, rest for arbitrarily long, and go back up and take the redpoint (Pete Whittaker and Dave MacLeod perhaps?). And don't quote me on this, but I think a funny version of this was claiming an onsight redpoint many years after, as they had merely downclimbed to the ground during their first attempt.

Mike-Mayhem wrote:

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send.

Sadly what you "say" is not the convention that anyone else uses. The grade of the route should take into account any potential no-hands rests that allow one to fully recover, and would be graded easier than a route without that rest.

You really asking us to help you downplay your homie's send??

Every 30 seconds a letter grade must be reduced from FA’s suggested grade. 

if I climb with somebody who tries to put me on the clock for taking a rest on a ledge, that's the last time I climb with that person. We're doing this for fun, or at least we should be. 

I believe Ondra takes some pretty long rests on some of his sends…. Usually hanging from some contorted kneebar. And I mean rests of several minutes. Maybe some of you more in the know Ondra fans can share some specific examples as I can’t recall from which video I got that idea. 

Mike-Mayhem has spoketh! There will be a combing of the Mountain Project to retroactively untick any rests longer than 1 minute, hear ye hear ye!!

I camped for about ten minutes in the hueco on Dost Mitra this weekend. If you think I cheated, feel free to use MP's "Dispute Tick" feature and lodge a complaint with Star Command.

Daniel Joder wrote:

I believe Ondra takes some pretty long rests on some of his sends…. Usually hanging from some contorted kneebar. And I mean rests of several minutes. Maybe some of you more in the know Ondra fans can share some specific examples as I can’t recall from which video I got that idea. 

Ondra has been timing his rests for years to make sure they dont exceed one minute, even on boulders...boom roasted

Everyone knows you can rest as long as you want as long as you don't weight the rope or any gear (hooks, trad gear, knee pads, etc...). 

Mike-Mayhem wrote:

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send.

I'm relieved that my "sharp end recovery nap" tactics escape your censure.

Mike-Mayhem wrote:

I say 1 minute max. If you stand on a ledge for over a minute "resting" before continuing the route, that's equivalent to a top rope send.

You know how I know you’re a chuffer?

hifno wrote:

Sadly what you "say" is not the convention that anyone else uses. The grade of the route should take into account any potential no-hands rests that allow one to fully recover, and would be graded easier than a route without that rest.

Is this something that’s considered when assigning a difficulty grade? I always thought it was based on the difficulty of the hardest move on the route, regardless of how easy or restful the rest of the route is. 

almostrad wrote:

You know how I know you’re a chuffer?

How do you know Mike is a chuffer?

Is it because he used the term "top rope send"?

Or that he doesn't know sport climbers love breaking up their climbs with lengthy rests, ideally sitting down on route. Then once they "send" their proj, they get to spray down everyone about how they are a 5.xx climber. Even though they only climbed the softest route in the region of that grade....

If the ledge is on route it should not matter right? If the ledge is off route then that becomes questionable.
if you are on an adventurous route that you never know if you are on route, then I suppose that becomes fine again. 

I mean, people are missing the real shit here: ledges are aid. 

Until I'm old and gray.