Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2

One of my favorite simple, closed set ups!

An interesting 32 dollar anchor (20% less if a member of Hownot2.com) I like the longgg Quicklink (250cm) more than the typical Quicklink, chain, Quicklink needed for this style of anchor. 

The double ring P-bolt would be ideal for lowering - this is a rather niche anchor solution for a Via Ferrata belay anchor, so was not needed. 

Been having some success getting these old wedge sleeve hybrid things out of our soft sandstone as to reuse the hole. Mostly spinning, light pulling and no water so you can use the hole right after you pull it.

Sam Joneswrote:

Been having some success getting these old wedge sleeve hybrid things out of our soft sandstone as to reuse the hole. Mostly spinning, light pulling and no water so you can use the hole right after you pull it.

Have been able to do the same in clear creek as well - pull the nut, disengage the wedge, grab it with vise grips and just wiggle it out. Really gives you some extra to think about when whipping on them

Sam Joneswrote:

Been having some success getting these old wedge sleeve hybrid things out of our soft sandstone as to reuse the hole. Mostly spinning, light pulling and no water so you can use the hole right after you pull it.

Nice work Sam! 

Very nice! Lots of adhesives are rated for damp(and even underwater) installation.

Also check out flame to subdue the glueins. You can get a nice shade of brown with flame that will last!

timothy fisherwrote:

Also check out flame to subdue the glueins. You can get a nice shade of brown with flame that will last!

Are you talking about for camouflage? Can you go into more details on this/ share pictures?

timothy fisherwrote:

Very nice! Lots of adhesives are rated for damp(and even underwater) installation.

Thanks! Im not worried about the glue mixing with water but the rock quality itself. Greg from the ASCA recommended refraining from rebolting sandstone after a rain just like you would avoid climbing after recent precip. I supposed the same weakening of the sandstone would occur from introducing water into the hole while removing a bolt. Let me know if you know something different, bc using water would make it easier, but I currently don't. As for the flame treated glue ins, what does your process look like? Id love to see an example. 

Tal Mwrote:

Have been able to do the same in clear creek as well - pull the nut, disengage the wedge, grab it with vise grips and just wiggle it out. Really gives you some extra to think about when whipping on them

Yea man, I would have liked for some of these to put up more of a fight. 

Jim Daywrote:

Are you talking about for camouflage? Can you go into more details on this/ share pictures?

I posted on this subject some years ago, just warm the bolt in an oxygen-rich environment (air) and stop when it achieves the tint you require. The reason for the color change is the normal chromium oxide layer is transparent as it is very thin, at higher temperatures it becomes thicker and goes through a range of colours from light straw up through dark blue and eventually black, technically this is called a heat tint.

Kevin Maliczakwrote:

Horizontal bolts converted to vertical-style so the wear rests on a single point, that being a beefy SS304 1.5 ton WLL double-wiregate eye hook.
Glue-ins, quicklinks, & chain all SS316. 3/8" Spring hook carabiner & anchor hook (the consumables) are SS304. Cost to equip this anchor (excluding Twist Bolts and epoxy) was the equivalent of $13 USD for me. 

I really like this, I am not a fan of permanent carabiners for the most part but this seems like a great way of avoiding the problems! I especially like the one mussy on the wear point instead of two on the same level

Edit just saw the twin gate mussy!!!!!! 100% on board!

Jim Tittwrote:

I posted on this subject some years ago, just warm the bolt in an oxygen-rich environment (air) and stop when it achieves the tint you require. The reason for the color change is the normal chromium oxide layer is transparent as it is very thin, at higher temperatures it becomes thicker and goes through a range of colours from light straw up through dark blue and eventually black, technically this is called a heat tint.

Thank you Jim Titt!

Jim Tittwrote:

I posted on this subject some years ago, just warm the bolt in an oxygen-rich environment (air) and stop when it achieves the tint you require. The reason for the color change is the normal chromium oxide layer is transparent as it is very thin, at higher temperatures it becomes thicker and goes through a range of colours from light straw up through dark blue and eventually black, technically this is called a heat tint.

Would you just gently warm the metal with a blowtorch to get the tint?

Does anyone on here know where you can find some good deals on steel lower off carabiners from stores based here in the US? 

Sam Joneswrote:

Would you just gently warm the metal with a blowtorch to get the tint?

Gentle is a relative term! For brown as an example you need 735°F/390°C so it's a question of how big a torch you have and how much time.

Bryan Kwrote:

Does anyone on here know where you can find some good deals on steel lower off carabiners from stores based here in the US? 

US stainless. Stiff gates is some people gripe for the most affordable captive eye briner they offer. I'm fine with em, YMMV.

Unless you're not looking at stainless.....

Jim Tittwrote:

Gentle is a relative term! For brown as an example you need 735°F/390°C so it's a question of how big a torch you have and how much time.

I've toyed with tinting using a map gas torch, readily available at any hardware store in the US. It does the trick pretty quick with no fancy tools. I think i spent about 30 seconds a bolt getting a nice medium to dark brown. We don't have a need to camo here, but it's a nice option for discreet placements. 

Mr Rogerswrote:

US stainless. Stiff gates is some people gripe for the most affordable captive eye briner they offer. I'm fine with em, YMMV.

Unless you're not looking at stainless.....

You are a lifesaver!  This is gonna be my go-to place for hardware for now on.