New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #29

Race to the Summit

If your hangboard is in a doorway where you can't rig a pulley counterweight system, Ken's set-up is a good way to go.

Thanks Randy for the nice words. There certainly are dozens of Pinnacles routes that I've done and would never, ever touch again. But lots and lots of newer routes there are very well protected. It's a weird place to fall in love with.

Got out to Visit Isa in Maine where she has been playing grandmother.  Bugged out after work thurs evening. Passed through the white mountains at dusk.

we made it to Acadia fri afternoon.

 cooked dinner on top of the mountain

and then crashed @ Wallys

lots of roads washed out from the storms  so getting around the island is a bit challenging but we managed to get out to Great head Sat  and climb Full Sail. 

the start was seeping, slippery and spooky. I led both pitches as Isa has hardly climbed at all since her knee surgery. 

It was my first rock climb of the season and I was holding on too tight. 

Isa was super happy and wanted to do it again so she led it the second time.

We then took a quick dip in the ocean. My feet.

Isa looks better than I do

it hazed up right at sunset so nothing super dramatic

back to walleys for camping. Most everything on the island is closed. It was still really busy everywhere and parking lots almost full to capacity. No longer  an option once the season actually starts.

My shoulder got tweaked on the 2nd trip up Full sail so we  just hiked on sunday and swam in the ocean again..  just got home a few hours ago.. 

Brad, nice write up! And, wow, that's really getting after a specific goal, and sounds like it was enjoyable, too. 

We went out today. Only people there. It was beautiful, we are in that brief, brief window when it is very green here. The flowers were out. Quiet. Peaceful.

Exactly what we both needed. 

We sat down, only just 2/3 of the way up, and....just sat. Watching the (very full) river go by.

And left again. 

Sometimes? 

You think it's a climbing day, and it just isn't. Other things are more important.

That was today, and I'm so grateful to have a climbing partner who is also a terrific friend. 

That also meant we were both back in our respective homes when the winds arrived. Huge wind, dust storms (yellow brown skies are weird), debris flying everywhere. I watched the stuff blow over, around, through the yard. Noticed that the chickens across the way packed into a tight huddle out in the pasture, feathers flapping around, but not on their involuntary way to Kansas at least. And saw that the roofing was being peeled off the barn over there.

They are talking frost tonight. 

This is when you come to the understanding that those average temps for a given day are just that. Average. Cuz it's either 8 degrees higher than that....or 8 degrees colder. Or 10. Or more....

H.

Edit to add, wow! Nice stuff all the rest of you, too!

Todd Berlier wrote:

not sure where im going with this, but it makes me think abiut an FA thats haunting me. ive been thinking about this climb and how to protect it. its a 40 foot long traverse on an incredible feature, but the end of it has maybe a V6 exit move with 30 foot fall potential. if it was solid holds on a steep wall id likely do it, but it is a slab move. ive tried the move probably 20 times and im about 50/50 of success. foot keeps popping off this teeny hold. never been more tempted to chip something in my life. i wont. i think ill see if i can talk someone else better than me into doing it, or ill just bolt it. cant decide.

V6 isn’t solid at all. You’d likely need bodyweight compression to hold onto any “micro jugs”. FA part is good cause the rock won’t be as slick, but it sounds really dangerous.

There used to be some debate about what set humans apart from animals. The question could be relevant to climbers (or people who take on beginners). To continue, not needing first hand experience to learn seems like a human trait. My new climber friend was curious why I made her tie in at the start of multi-pitch and not cragging. I learned this by watching the rope get away from me. She, hopefully, will not have to. 

Ken Tubbswrote:

I think there was a discussion upthread about hangboarding and I wanted to show what has worked well for me. In the photo below I've got a few feet of 3/8" bungee cord hanging in a loop below my board. I put my feet in this and if I stand on a scale with it looped around my feet it takes about 175-130=45 lbs off my body weight. Since it acts as a spring the force decreases if I do a pullup or simply bring my knees up. It works really well for this overweight and constantly injured old man.

If you do this I recommend wearing shoes with tread and a heel to help keep the bungee from from sliding off your feet and slapping you in the ass or chin.

My set-up uses a extra heavy resistance band hanging from the center line of the board.  (It's slung over the big middle jug at the top of the board that you get with the largest Metolius board.)  I step in it with one foot to take weight off the hangs and pull-ups.  I do the Abrahamson routine and have definitely gotten stronger.

The desert is quiet and beautiful today.  I feel calm about climbing lately. I was treating this year like it could be my last, and those four routes as my last hurrah. Suddenly there’s no hurry, I have so much to learn and plenty of time. Maybe there’ll be a next year, 

Plus the sun angle has changed and presents a problem for sticking to steep slab. 

We were at Ledges To Lawndale today and I wanted to focus on holds, from open hand down to full crimp. Bob noticed I tend to use palm to the rock so I’ll be practicing crimping.  Also to keep remembering “hips to the wall”..   

My favorite thing is playing in the dirt. Sand, rock and sky bring a lot of joy. I wish Russ was here so we could discuss chakra alignment.

Lori Milaswrote:

The desert is quiet and beautiful today.  I feel calm about climbing lately. I was treating this year like it could be my last, and those four routes as my last hurrah. Suddenly there’s no hurry, I have so much to learn and plenty of time.

In contrast, the gym was noisy and crowded today. Two kids standing barely 15 feet apart couldn’t hear what they were shouting to each other.

Two old men, okay, I get that. Two kids?  

Was a fun workout. Tired by the time my second climbing partner dropped in. Nearly 4 hours of climbing, and during my last climb of the evening melted off the holds on an 5.11c.  

Maybe there’ll be a next year, 

Lori, there will always be a next year! Get on more fun climbs too. You don’t have to crank every time you climb.

My motivation for encouraging you, is of course, so I can claim in a decade to know a relatively new climber climbing well into her 80s.  

Todd, that is a beautiful rock! 

I pretty often check out the conversations and pictures on this thread…I comment infrequently but Erika, thank you for stepping it up again, these last comments just touched me and thought I’d share a picture of several of our GACA group in the Methow Valley on the main wall at Fun Rocks in Mazama.  Have to be 60 or up or “injured?”. Geoff Child named the group and he and his partner ( somewhere in the picture) hold the age record for Flyboys on Goat Wall .  Combined 150 years.

They are a great group also who encouraged me today to do my first pitch at 6 weeks post knee replacement.  Thank you all for keeping the climbing camaraderie and caring going forward.

(Golden Age Climbing Affiliates) or something.

Todd Berlier wrote:

this is the latest area ive been developing 

this the route/boulder i mentioned yesterday. the dike is 15 feet above boulder  below. problem is theres a 4 foot gap between boulders and another 15 feet to the ground. as soon as feet leave the dike is the insecure v6 slab move. i think its a beautiful climb.

The scariest FA highballs I’ve done were “snowballs,” where I made multiple trips to shovel snow into the landing after each snowstorm.  “Death Star” (V5) must have had at least ten feet of snow below it before we climbed it unroped.

Nick we almost went to great head Saturday and opted for the south wall instead since we wanted full sun after our noon start. Only two other climbers Saturday,  Sunday we had eagle bluff in Clifton to ourselves. I think having a gym nearby is keeping people inside which is OK by me. If you ever need any recommendations on places to park overnight around here message me.

Todd, where I live now is so full of granite that is too tall to boulder but too short to equip for sport its maddening.  It's either 10 pads plus spotters or one or two bolts, neither one ever sounds appetizing. 

Todd, I love your rock! I hope you’ll keep a running log of your work on it. Where is it?

Li Hu, I wasn’t trying to be dramatic thinking that this year could be my last. It’s just that we have been trained to understand that we’re in a decline. I’m maybe hyper vigilant about that, waiting for the other shoe to drop.  Also my own personal history prepares me for shit to happen. And shit does frequently happen.  So it’s kind of a pleasant surprise to wake up and still be ready for some fun, maybe even hard fun. 

I’m just amazed at the learning curve for everyone here. So my new awakening is that I can work on all aspects of climbing at an easier grade with less wear and tear and then blow it all out on a big day. Practicing half crimps on a 5.8 is just as instructive as practicing on a 5.10,  I don’t have to be 100 feet up in the air and at my limit to work on this  (I think this is what Randy was saying six months ago.   )

it’s quite interesting to learn something new like climbing “at a certain age” with no real science or guidebook. So I have been increasingly grateful for my.Whoop. Per the data, i’ve been able to document my strain, sleep and especially recovery over time, and things like heart rate variability, and various training zones. Not only am I able to work out much harder today than two years ago, but I sleep through the night and wake up pretty recovered. in every way rock climbing, and especially living a lot of life outdoors, is about the healthiest thing one can do.

And here’s just a small noticing  today. The route I was on yesterday required some pulling up on jugs and I woke up this morning with sore shoulders. Next time it could be some weird knee or leg position. I can’t think of anything that requires such overall body strength and flexibility. I mean, you’ve got to be really strong because you never know what kind of zinger the rock will throw at you next.

I love the fact that most of what we do here in Joshua Tree and all the other crags could carry the warning “don’t try this at home.”    

David Hwrote:

I pretty often check out the conversations and pictures on this thread…I comment infrequently but Erika, thank you for stepping it up again, these last comments just touched me and thought I’d share a picture of several of our GACA group in the Methow Valley on the main wall at Fun Rocks in Mazama.  Have to be 60 or up or “injured?”. Geoff Child named the group and he and his partner ( somewhere in the picture) hold the age record for Flyboys on Goat Wall .  Combined 150 years.

They are a great group also who encouraged me today to do my first pitch at 6 weeks post knee replacement.  Thank you all for keeping the climbing camaraderie and caring going forward.

(Golden Age Climbing Affiliates) or something.

Hi David!! So great you’re getting out post-TKA. That’s a beautiful area - I really want to get up to Mazama to climb. Hope Jim and I can meet up with you again sometime soon! Do your PT!!

David… Welcome! You have a great “to do list” get after it. Question- what led up to the knee replacement?
Lori- glad to know you’re feeling better, sounds like you are getting this climbing thing dialed. Feeling good enough to travel? The COR unofficial get together is in June. One of my biggest regrets is not taking the time to go climbing there. Been two times now. Bummed out that I don’t have a lifetime to spend hanging out and climbing. Some fantastic slabs await. And it’s only about 2X the drive as if driving to Sacramento well maybe 3X … you could stop in beautiful “Jack Pot” Nevada- a town almost as charming as Joshua Tree! Be careful with that finger board! I don’t think one, at 71, can really strengthen fingers. Grip strength comes from your forearms IMHO. Stretching those will increase blood flow and nerve function, leading to increased grip.

My left hip is really hurting and weak (leg that got hammered and is 50% the size of the other) All I did was walk downhill some- go figure. I’m afraid to go to regular orthopedic doctor, because a wise member of this group said “surgeons gotta surgery” or something to that effect. I believe that.

OLH The peppers are doing well- once the temperatures came up they started to grow fast.

Climb on 

Guy Keeseewrote:

David… Welcome! You have a great “to do list” get after it. Question- what led up to the knee replacement?
Lori- glad to know you’re feeling better, sounds like you are getting this climbing thing dialed. Feeling good enough to travel? The COR unofficial get together is in June. One of my biggest regrets is not taking the time to go climbing there. Been two times now. Bummed out that I don’t have a lifetime to spend hanging out and climbing. Some fantastic slabs await. And it’s only about 2X the drive as if driving to Sacramento well maybe 3X … you could stop in beautiful “Jack Pot” Nevada- a town almost as charming as Joshua Tree! Be careful with that finger board! I don’t think one, at 71, can really strengthen fingers. Grip strength comes from your forearms IMHO. Stretching those will increase blood flow and nerve function, leading to increased grip.

My left hip is really hurting and weak (leg that got hammered and is 50% the size of the other) All I did was walk downhill some- go figure. I’m afraid to go to regular orthopedic doctor, because a wise member of this group said “surgeons gotta surgery” or something to that effect. I believe that.

OLH The peppers are doing well- once the temperatures came up they started to grow fast.

Climb on 

Who's 71???      I'm 70, A LOT younger than 71!  

Oh, man... I WISH I could go to COR.  I feel so cheated.  Between Tony and me, this is just too much.  I can leave him behind, but doing that trip alone would really be dicey.  Maybe the good Lord will open up a path... I'm not counting that out.  Without going into lengthy and boring explanations... trust me, if I could be there I would.    

Meanwhile, without throwing anyone under the bus, I am seeing the difference between folks who do PT, working on it every day, and those who don't.  Guy, you have kind of led the way on recovery.  Don't give up!  And, I would never NOT get second and third opinions, from Ortho's and otherwise.  Tony's Ortho is so great, letting him know exactly how much surgery was possible, and when it's time to absolutely stop with maximum gain.  On his last visit, together they weighed the benefits and risk of one more surgery (and decided against it).  But having the information you can get is a GOOD thing.  Having that extra professional opinion can only help you direct your own recovery.  

My stint on the hangboard is so far just fine.  It burns in the forearms, which is great.  I don't think I'm hanging long enough or hard enough to do much to my fingers.  On the other hand... feeling kind of foolish here... we HAVE very fine edges and jugs here in Joshua Tree where I can crimp and hang to my heart's content.  On almost every rock!  Yesterday, working my way up the route in Hall of Horrors, DUH... great edges ALL THE WAY.     Plenty close to the ground!  I could crimp there all day long.  My fingertips are sore today, skin is worn down... so there's my finger training.  

There's also a great long traverse on Echo Rock where I can go alone, lace up my shoes tight, and WALK THOSE EDGES.     Who knew?  Perfect training for granite crimps and edging.

I'm making our new favorite pasta sauce today... with cloves!!!  

MM. Thanks. we really like Smugglers den when they are open,  mostly for the dishwashing station. Wallys is fiine and not that much extra driving. I saw several places that probobly could have crashed at but  its no fun at all to get rousted in the middle of the night and it just so congested anyways its better to just do the right thing...  My shoulder is toast... It was really hurting after the few climbs I did at willoughby this season which is really sad news because i am usually very comfortable  with the winter climbing there.. now both wings barely work... 

Sorry to hear that Nick. Hope you recover soon/--I know that you need functioning shoulders for your work as well as your play. Hopefully you'll 'moderate' your version of 'bouldering' and winter 'ice hiking' until the shoulders improve.

I gotta do as much PT as work and climbing these days myself! I wish I could just go jump on stuff like I used to but I know that's where the painful long to heal injuries await.  I gotta make some money but my hours of labor are down about 50% from  20 years ago. I spend 20 minutes with rubber bands and various shoulder and elbow exercises now minimum before getting on anything . George B, who doesn't post in this thread,  can tell you about warming up the shoulders, he had both of them replaced.

Anyone who spends a few days in Acadia should always go check out Clifton, lots of good lines there and really really rural. Ward knows, I've seen his name all over the book.