Realistic Timeline for 45 out of 50 Classics for Boulderer/Sport Climber?

Hey, so I'm thinking of possibly making climbing my focus in life, and I'm not really sure what sort of climbs I want to do so I figured starting with the 50 classics is a good list to build a broad foundation. As the title says, I'm thinking around 45 makes sense since of course a few are extremely dangerous.

I have been climbing for a decade, but that is mostly bouldering and more recently some sport (V7, 5.11a), and I have very little experience placing gear or with mountaineering. I used to do endurance stuff like peak-bagging in the Sierra Nevada and long distance mountain biking, though I don't have the same level of endurance I used to.

I'm curious what people might suggest as a high level plan of how to build up the capabilities to complete this and how many years it would take if I'm not working (I have an online business that makes enough money I could commit to multiple years without being worried or having to dirtbag it).

I'm in Moab these days so I figure this is a good place to pick up basic trad, aid, and multipitch skills on rock until I can do the climbs in this area, and then move to Bishop, which is close to Yosemite, and then go North to work on the more mountaineering/alpine objectives.

I know it might seem strange to pick something like 45 out of 50 classics as an objective for my skill level, but I think I need something big enough to keep me engaged for multiple years and though I enjoy bouldering, I would feel far too aimless not working if I were just trying to jump to next V grade or something like that, especially given that I am 30. Moreover, endurance activities naturally take more time. I need something to fill the meaning vacuum that will be left if I give up on my work projects -- I am annoyed that there are Kafkaesque barriers to certain projects I was working on, I do not have anything I need to prove to anyone, and in the mountains, I am able to own the responsibility for the outcomes irrespective of the opinions of fools. In the mountains I can engage with truth and reality. I am at a crossroads where I might keep working if certain things come to pass, and I expect I will know within a month or so which way I want to go.

Maybe some therapy would be good first, especially if you can afford it (serious, not a shit post).

Connor Dobsonwrote:

Maybe some therapy would be good first, especially if you can afford it (serious, not a shit post).

This is the real answer. Climbing is highly escapist, and although you non humbly bragged that you are financially stable enough to not work, you also said that you are trying to fill a vacuum inside you. You’re in Moab, so maybe look around at the van lyfers a bit and ask yourself ‘are they really happy? Is this a lifestyle that should be celebrated, encouraged?’ If you really have the freedom to do whatever you want, why not volunteer, go back to school, find a partner?? Something that will actually enrich your life.. because climbing will not fill the void.

Also; classics are not all they are cracked up to be. If I were you, I’d travel to the most classic destinations, spend the time finding lines that I found compelling, and work on those. This will reduce the amount of ‘Kafkaesque’ barriers, like parking, mentioned above.. and stay out of the east coast, it’s too wet and limited.

Sounds like you need to narrow down your goals to one major objective - learn trad first.

Maybe something like 150 pitches of trad 5.6 - 5.9 in the first year or two. Then go for 50 5.10 trad pitches. Include some big multi day hiking/mountaineering objectives in there.

Then when that’s all done, start thinking about the 45 classics. 

Good suggestions so far, including the therapy one. Make sure it's not just escapism. 

My additional suggestion: if you have the money, do a multipitch classic this summer with an AMGA or IFMGA guide. When I climb with guides, I learn so much. Pick a route that's off the beaten path-- not the Durrance on Devil's Tower, for example--so other parties won't hurry you. This way, the guide will have more time to teach you a lot about gear placements, rappelling, route-finding, etc. instead of just being stuck in a potential conga line. Irene's Arete in the Tetons could be a good one. If you lead 11a sport you could do all the moves, and a guide would likely take you up Irene's with one day of multi-pitch prep work on Guide's Wall with your past climbing history. If Irene's was too advanced, there are mega-classics in the Tetons you could do that would give you a sample of what is required.

If you really want to knock out a 50 classic right away, maybe skip Irene's and do the Petzoldt Ridge with a guide instead. They'll make you do at least a day of prep in advance to prove your mettle, but that's just a chance for you to learn.

Climbing an alpine objective with a really good guide is the equivalent of a multi-day guitar lesson with a rock star. You can learn so much if you ask the right questions.

Staying at the Teton Climber's Ranch is also awesome. Talk to people there. You'll meet some climbing nomads. Get their advice.

Try one first before committing too much. Many of the 50 classics will be physically demanding experiences the likes of which you probably have no frame of reference for. Going with a guide is a great way to acquire that (yes, the guide fees are worth it!)

Hiring a guide is unnecessary, just learn trad the same way the rest of us do, by finding partners who will take you up a climb and show you the basics, then start leading easy stuff yourself. Then forget all about the "50 Classics" and just enjoy the journey wherever it takes you

7 years? I say that because that’s about long the Smileys put into their effort to do about the same thing. They did more than 45, but started maybe slightly ahead of you, in terms of experience. (I’m good friends with Mark and Janelle and joined them for 3 of their classics). 

I do not have anything I need to prove to anyone, and in the mountains, I am able to own the responsibility for the outcomes irrespective of the opinions of fools. In the mountains I can engage with truth and reality. I am at a crossroads where I might keep working if certain things come to pass, and I expect I will know within a month or so which way I want to go.

Yeesh this has gotta be bait

Miss Catwrote:

This is the real answer. Climbing is highly escapist, and although you non humbly bragged that you are financially stable enough to not work, you also said that you are trying to fill a vacuum inside you. You’re in Moab, so maybe look around at the van lyfers a bit and ask yourself ‘are they really happy? Is this a lifestyle that should be celebrated, encouraged?’ If you really have the freedom to do whatever you want, why not volunteer, go back to school, find a partner?? Something that will actually enrich your life.. because climbing will not fill the void.

Also; classics are not all they are cracked up to be. If I were you, I’d travel to the most classic destinations, spend the time finding lines that I found compelling, and work on those. This will reduce the amount of ‘Kafkaesque’ barriers, like parking, mentioned above.. and stay out of the east coast, it’s too wet and limited.

+1 on the classics. I've done maybe 9 of them and they weren't that great. 

Climbing is awesome don't get me wrong and can be super fulfilling but if it's all you have filling in your life and your purpose to live, it can lead to some pretty dark times when you aren't stoked/bad weather/injuries etc.

Philip Wirewrote:

Good suggestions so far, including the therapy one. Make sure it's not just escapism. 

My additional suggestion: if you have the money, do a multipitch classic this summer with an AMGA or IFMGA guide. When I climb with guides, I learn so much. Pick a route that's off the beaten path-- not the Durrance on Devil's Tower, for example--so other parties won't hurry you. This way, the guide will have more time to teach you a lot about gear placements, rappelling, route-finding, etc. instead of just being stuck in a potential conga line. Irene's Arete in the Tetons could be a good one. If you lead 11a sport you could do all the moves, and a guide would likely take you up Irene's with one day of multi-pitch prep work on Guide's Wall with your past climbing history. If Irene's was too advanced, there are mega-classics in the Tetons you could do that would give you a sample of what is required.

If you really want to knock out a 50 classic right away, maybe skip Irene's and do the Petzoldt Ridge with a guide instead. They'll make you do at least a day of prep in advance to prove your mettle, but that's just a chance for you to learn.

Climbing an alpine objective with a really good guide is the equivalent of a multi-day guitar lesson with a rock star. You can learn so much if you ask the right questions.

Staying at the Teton Climber's Ranch is also awesome. Talk to people there. You'll meet some climbing nomads. Get their advice.

Try one first before committing too much. Many of the 50 classics will be physically demanding experiences the likes of which you probably have no frame of reference for. Going with a guide is a great way to acquire that (yes, the guide fees are worth it!)

Petzoldt ridge to upper exum is an amazing route, but not one of the 50 classics. Sub full exum and your comment is totally on point.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America

Connor Dobsonwrote:

+1 on the classics. I've done maybe 9 of them and they weren't that great. 

Obviously you are entitled to your opinion, and others clearly agree with you, but I've done a fair number of the 50 Classics and found all that I've done to be very worthwhile---and many to be excellent. I think many folks just have unrealistic expectations about those climbs. It is important to remember when the book was published and understand the criteria that Steck and Roper used in making their selections---with 'history' being one of those factors.

Michael Cwrote:

Hey, so I'm thinking of possibly making climbing my focus in life, and I'm not really sure what sort of climbs I want to do so I figured starting with the 50 classics is a good list to build a broad foundation. As the title says, I'm thinking around 45 makes sense since of course a few are extremely dangerous.

I have been climbing for a decade, but that is mostly bouldering and more recently some sport (V7, 5.11a), and I have very little experience placing gear or with mountaineering. I used to do endurance stuff like peak-bagging in the Sierra Nevada and long distance mountain biking, though I don't have the same level of endurance I used to.

I'm curious what people might suggest as a high level plan of how to build up the capabilities to complete this and how many years it would take if I'm not working (I have an online business that makes enough money I could commit to multiple years without being worried or having to dirtbag it).

I'm in Moab these days so I figure this is a good place to pick up basic trad, aid, and multipitch skills on rock until I can do the climbs in this area, and then move to Bishop, which is close to Yosemite, and then go North to work on the more mountaineering/alpine objectives.

I know it might seem strange to pick something like 45 out of 50 classics as an objective for my skill level, but I think I need something big enough to keep me engaged for multiple years and though I enjoy bouldering, I would feel far too aimless not working if I were just trying to jump to next V grade or something like that, especially given that I am 30. Moreover, endurance activities naturally take more time. I need something to fill the meaning vacuum that will be left if I give up on my work projects -- I am annoyed that there are Kafkaesque barriers to certain projects I was working on, I do not have anything I need to prove to anyone, and in the mountains, I am able to own the responsibility for the outcomes irrespective of the opinions of fools. In the mountains I can engage with truth and reality. I am at a crossroads where I might keep working if certain things come to pass, and I expect I will know within a month or so which way I want to go.

30 years old? With your climbing and hiking experience it certainly seems doable. Good luck.

Aaron Kwrote:

Hiring a guide is unnecessary, just learn trad the same way the rest of us do, by finding partners who will take you up a climb and show you the basics, then start leading easy stuff yourself. Then forget all about the "50 Classics" and just enjoy the journey wherever it takes you

Right, life isn’t a bucket list to everyone.

You might want to see if you even enjoy trad climbing, alpine climbing, mountaineering before committing your entire life to it. 

Not everyone does, I know several very accomplished climbers/boulderers who HATE those styles of climbing

Alan Rubinwrote:

Obviously you are entitled to your opinion, and others clearly agree with you, but I've done a fair number of the 50 Classics and found all that I've done to be very worthwhile---and many to be excellent. I think many folks just have unrealistic expectations about those climbs. It is important to remember when the book was published and understand the criteria that Steck and Roper used in making their selections---with 'history' being one of those factors.

For sure, some people enjoy these climbs. To me history shouldn't be weighted too heavily when talking about quality of a climb and the quality of the climb should really stand on its own.

Take Durrance for example, it's cool that people did that a long time ago (30s?) in boots but I found it kind of awkward and full of bird poop. A cool thing to do if you are already there I guess, a life's mission I would probably pick something else. 

Some are pretty fun, I enjoyed travellers buttress. But I lived close enough to it that it was a day trip.

I haven't done any of the more epic ones in Alaska or anything so maybe those are rad but who knows.

From my experience, if you make climbing just about the climbs themselves, you are missing out on the main purpose of the sport. Climbing is about the places you go, the people you meet, the cultures you get to experience along the way, and the inner work to figure out your life. It's a great means to escape the routine and find true purpose, not the end all be all to life. My two cents.

But 'history' was one of the Steck/Roper factors, and, to me, at least. does add 'something' to a route that in some situations may balance out deficits in the actual physical quality of the climbing itself.
Of course, much depends on the climber's individual experience of the climb. For me, the Durrance (Devil's Tower) Is a perfect example of this, as I first climbed it at probably the 'perfect' time in my climbing development---at the time one was required to climb the route first before climbing any other route on the Tower---and there weren't all that many other ones, and, for me it was a very appropriate 'next step' from what I had previously climbed. A route that provides such a 'step' for many climbers, as I believe that the Durrance has, is appropriate to be considered as a classic.

Even after many years--and multiple other climbs on the Tower, several of them providing what objectively is likely 'better' climbing, the Durrance still stands out in my mind as the 'classic' route in the formation--and the Leaning Column and Durrance Crack pitches are still outstanding for a 5.6/7 leader--we have to be careful to avoid 'grade snobbery' while deciding what makes a route a classic.

I just want some dude to do Hummingbird ... and then forever bask in the shade others throw at him when the learn that he's never had to jam through the uber classic pigeon poop on Durrance.

Jason ELwrote:

I just want some dude to do Hummingbird ... and then forever bask in the shade others throw at him when the learn that he's never had to jam through the uber classic pigeon poop on Durrance.

Why does it have to be a 'dude' who does Hummingbird? Maybe Janelle will do it with another woman or some other all-female team. And, who would be throwing shade at them and why? If they did Hummingbird as part of the 'self-imposed' ( as it would be) goal of doing the specific 50 Classics as listed by Steck and Roper,  they themselves would have wanted to do---and would almost undoubtedly already have done so, the Durrance because it was an inherent part of accomplishing that specific goal. They may have loved that route, hated it, or 'been neutral' about it, but climbing it was part of what they had decided to do. Otherwise, there is no relationship between the two routes and they wouldn't care in the least that they hadn't done the Durrance and, clearly, either way no one else should have anything to say about it.

Alan Rubinwrote:

... And, who would be throwing shade at them and why? ...

I dunno. Human nature?  I mean, you're already taking issue with him being a dude.

I recall hiking ten miles into a climb where some other party on the trail, a total stranger, berated me over my occupation, genuinely mad at me at times ... because he had just seen a movie about it and had a lot to say on the matter.  A lot.  A whole fucking lot.

That guy.  That guy, for starters.  Or a genetic relative who has Roper's book on his shelf. 

Alan Rubinwrote:

Why does it have to be a 'dude' who does Hummingbird? 

"Cruise into a bar on the shore"

Jason ELwrote:

I dunno. Human nature?  I mean, you're already taking issue with him being a dude.

I recall hiking ten miles into a climb where some other party on the trail, a total stranger, berated me over my occupation, genuinely mad at me at times ... because he had just seen a movie about it and had a lot to say on the matter.  A lot.  A whole fucking lot.

That guy.  That guy, for starters.  Or a genetic relative who has Roper's book on his shelf. 

Agree there will always be someone dissatisfied with any climb with 50 “classic” climbs listed, but it sounds like your reasons for hating a route was cause some idiot put you in a bad mood.

Any book entitled “50 of the Best Climbs…” is based upon the author’s opinions.

That said, I enjoyed the ones I completed, and partially managed to get on.