ISO Outdoor Climbers who use Approach Shoes!

I wear approach shoes around town, to the gym, while guiding, and any recreational climbing outside. I'm happy to try out some pairs and let you know what I think. I do testing for some companies already, so I'm familiar with giving detailed feedback. I'm also highly opinionated when it comes to gear! 

I hike miles in approach shoes and climb quite a bit of friction slab in them. I'm a larger foot at 14/48, but have been known to wear US 13 and EU 47.5 in some approach shoes (although these days shoes seem to be getting smaller for some reason). I realize I'm not likely the target market as a bigfoot, but feel free to PM if you like. Happy to answer any questions.

Hey i thought this sent earlier.  

But I most often find myself enjoying the benefits of approach shoes on friction slab and traverses and class 3/4 stuff.  This type of nebulous, under-protected area between going out for a hike and a climb is my absolute favorite to have the benefits of an approach shoe.  I concur with almost everything said above, but I think the most important thing is how many different types of approach shoes there are and how that changes the target audience and design.  The shoe I would want for an extended aiding mission is very different than one I would wan to just say "Im a climber"  

Rosemary Tranwrote:

Haha appreciate all the responses and climbers who reached out! Not a bot and I'm a recreational indoor climber whose done only minimal outdoor bouldering that happens to be along big hikes. I have climber friends who live in various places, but not all call for approach shoes, e.g. Austin TX where Chacos will get you from the car to your spot without problem. My understanding of climbers is even as technical as the sport is, preferences still dominate; if someone can get by with their 8 year old sneakers with holes in them, then they will. Casey J. explained it perfectly- here to learn, humble myself and be authentic by listening to actual climbers, and have fun in the process! I'll be responding to those who have DM'd me! Even if you're not the target size, would love to keep in touch for future focus groups or local meet ups. Thank you in advance for the patience, knowledge, and good vibes :) 

A lot of climbers (including myself to some degree) just like to buy shit. You don't need approach shoes for any place where a dog could get to, yet you'll see tons of tx4's at smith, vantage, happy boulders amidst the crag hounds. I love bedrock sandals for this instead. So there's a lot of overbuying of technical gear where it's not really needed. Approach shoes are really great when you do need 100% traction on rock on a shoe that hikes pretty well with a pack for 2+ hours, or days, and might even take a crampon once in a while. Someone hiked the PCT in tx4's. On an approach you're on a trail for a long time, but then you might have to hop on some rock domes or small boulders, to get to the climb, and that has a death fall potential on easy terrain and you really need perfect purchase with climbing rubber on an approach shoe or the right trailrunner (see patagonia rover as well RIP). And you don't want to put on climbing shoes because it's a short bit with more trail afterwards. Then you have the approach shoes and you just start wearing them casually around town because they're ok for that too.

^^^  

James Cwrote:

A lot of climbers (including myself to some degree) just like to buy shit. You don't need approach shoes for any place where a dog could get to, yet you'll see tons of tx4's at smith, vantage, happy boulders amidst the crag hounds. I love bedrock sandals for this instead. So there's a lot of overbuying of technical gear where it's not really needed. Approach shoes are really great when you do need 100% traction on rock on a shoe that hikes pretty well with a pack for 2+ hours, or days, and might even take a crampon once in a while. Someone hiked the PCT in tx4's. On an approach you're on a trail for a long time, but then you might have to hop on some rock domes or small boulders, to get to the climb, and that has a death fall potential on easy terrain and you really need perfect purchase with climbing rubber on an approach shoe or the right trailrunner (see patagonia rover as well RIP). And you don't want to put on climbing shoes because it's a short bit with more trail afterwards. Then you have the approach shoes and you just start wearing them casually around town because they're ok for that too.

It is always fun to try new shoes and see what they do. Fortunately my foot size ~9 is the prototype shoe size, have done gear reviews, including for prototype shoes. So obviously I am the perfect candidate.

Sarcasm aside, I have several pairs of approach shoes and because of the soft sole I wear them pretty much when out climbing, technical hiking, or via ferrata or similar adventures. This past weekend we did a very casual route to honor the FA who passed away this week. (The route was also the first recorded route in the canyon). For giggles I climbed in my approach shoes. Quite comfortable. Especially as well walked off the route rather than rapping off. I see approach shoes as being a semi-specialized shoe.

I would be happy assist.

Once you start wearing them around, they just feel better - at least the well built ones.  More confidence on slabby stuff, and a little style doesn't help. Performance is important for me - you can just tell when a shoe climbs better. The more precision in the toe, the better for me. Too many shows are overly rounded and not stiff enough. A bit of an identity/status symbol thing. You signal to others that you are a climber. 

In my estimation “approach shoes” are misnamed.    They only serve a purpose, in my opinion, if you are using them as your climbing shoes as well.   Otherwise more comfortable and better options are available for just the approach.  And obviously better options exist for the climb.  

they are perfect “all day” shoes if the approach isn’t too long, and the climbing is under 5.9-ish.  It’s stupid to wear them casually-especially at work - cuz then your boss knows you’re likely wasting time on MP or watching climbing vids during the workday.  

The real target market is trad dads who are out with the fam on weekends teaching the next generation and are lucky to get some climbs in themselves.  Approach shoes at least keep it a bit more challenging on those climbs you’ve had wired for decades

I disagree with Mark on this. I find approach shoes to be very helpful ( sometimes necessary) for approaches---and descents, that require at least some scrambling, boulder hopping, or general rough terrain--all of which are quite common, even if I rarely use them for actual routes. I find them, at least those that I have used, more versatile than other footwear for such purposes. So I generally wear them as my basic footwear when I am climbing outdoors, other than when I am using my climbing shoes for the routes themselves. I don't use them as everyday footwear around town---I like to save them so that they will last longer for their intended purpose.

rock climbing wrote:

My money is that this is a student or a rich person being a “designer” 

Nike

From LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rosemarytran/

Rosemary Tran 

Nike Footwear Product Test Analyst

May 2021-present

MPwrote:

i've always been confused about what is an approach shoe. Is it: 

a) something compact/light enough to clip to your harness on multipitch

b) something to big wall in

c) something with sticky rubber that you can comfortably do 4th/5th class in

d) something you can rapidly take on and off when sport climbing

e) any non-technical-climbing shoe made by a "core" climbing brand (laspo, scarpa, bd, etc...)

f) something that you think  visually shows other people you are a  climber

as far as i can tell,  (e) or (f) is probably the best definition...

You make a good point. There are a lot of use cases. 

For me:

- comfort of tennis shoes

- can handle a long approach over rough trail with some scrambling.

- sticky rubber and ability to easily climb up to like 5.6 or more.

- doesn't have to be superlight but major bonus points if I can clip it on my harness for multipitch so I can have some comfort on the descent.

@OP sign me up.

Given the OP works for Nike I thought I would post this advert up from 1981. Nike is the company that started the lightweight hiking shoe revolution. The 1979 American K2 Expedition was the fodder for it. Growing up in Oregon I wore many a pair of the Lava Dome and Approach shoes. They were quite good shoes.

Adam Gallimorewrote:

The most important qualities of an approach shoe, for me, are sticky rubber, durability, and comfort. If you want to see what works well in an approach shoe look at the La Sportiva Tx4 and Tx2. Most of the time I wear my approach shoes because there is some level of technicality on the approach and I need sticky rubber to not slip on 4th-5th class terrain. Packability is nice but not imperative for me, so long as there is a loop to clip. I can clip the shoes to my harness. 

I'll similarly wear mine for multis with walk-offs, as those usually involve some 3rd-low 5th class terrain, even if the walk to the base is simple.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Given the OP works for Nike I thought I would post this advert up from 1981. Nike is the company that started the lightweight hiking shoe revolution. The 1979 American K2 Expedition was the fodder for it. Growing up in Oregon I wore many a pair of the Lava Dome and Approach shoes. They were quite good shoes.

Ah the OG stuff!! Was just talking about this one the other day with a friend. Wasn't around during this time but loved this era- the thinking & attitude behind product, the ads/content, and the creativity! Thx for sharing

rock climbing wrote:

You are kidding right? Ask climbers about shoes and get a straight answer.

My money is that this is a student or a rich person being a “designer” 

can’t wait to see how this will turn out 

You should really address the free access to your pantry that's been leading to so many pissing in your cheerios. *vibes*

James Cwrote:

A lot of climbers (including myself to some degree) just like to buy shit. You don't need approach shoes for any place where a dog could get to, yet you'll see tons of tx4's at smith, vantage, happy boulders amidst the crag hounds. I love bedrock sandals for this instead. So there's a lot of overbuying of technical gear where it's not really needed. Approach shoes are really great when you do need 100% traction on rock on a shoe that hikes pretty well with a pack for 2+ hours, or days, and might even take a crampon once in a while. Someone hiked the PCT in tx4's. On an approach you're on a trail for a long time, but then you might have to hop on some rock domes or small boulders, to get to the climb, and that has a death fall potential on easy terrain and you really need perfect purchase with climbing rubber on an approach shoe or the right trailrunner (see patagonia rover as well RIP). And you don't want to put on climbing shoes because it's a short bit with more trail afterwards. Then you have the approach shoes and you just start wearing them casually around town because they're ok for that too.

Hahah isn't this part of loving the outdoors, period? We all become gear junkies to some degree. Even though all my outdoor gear lasts me for years, there's always some cool or handy gear I come across that wouldn't hurt to be added to the arsenal. 

Your explanation makes total sense though. I guess with the places my friends climb though, whatever comfy shoes they already have that will be comfy for the post climb is enough to get them to their bouldering spot. For those hitting those places that are rough enough to warrant approach shoes, they have a need for it. 

On that note...I've hiked Smith Rock multiple times but have only watched climbers doing their thing from a distance and never got close enough to see the starting point. For those who have climbed out there in Central Oregon, what do you think? Approach shoes necessary or nah?

Mark Pilatewrote:

In my estimation “approach shoes” are misnamed.    

So the shoes I use to approach climbing are misnamed? Got it! 

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

So the shoes I use to approach climbing are misnamed? Got it! 

If you switch to climbing shoes after the approach, you’re using them wrong, lol.

Or….maybe I’m on the wrong side of this (never happens), and I need Rosemary to create the perfect “all day” adventure shoe.  Nike “AD” 

I can see the commercial now: - 3 am at the Longs Peak trailhead. slip into your AD’s and run up the Casual route (lotsa cool technical shots) and then back down the Cables…then cut to back in Estes strolling into cafe for a late morning latte looking sharp with all the cute girls turning to look at your shoes…and then the guy announces to nobody in particular, “yep, I’m a guide and I just climbed the casual route in approach shoes”.   (Gotta keep it realistic). Haha.