ELDO: Gambit final belay station rockfall

Was on gambit today 4/15 around 11AM and stopped at the final belay per Levin’s guidebook.  Dislodged a massive 300lb/2-human sized block, when i moved to the right to make space for my follower.  It went frighteningly easily. There are lots of loose cinderblock-sized blocks on the right side of this belay station now.  They would ping down mountaineers route and right onto the metal stairs on approach.  Please be careful.  I already notified Mike.  Thanks

I was considering getting on Gambit this weekend. Is there still good gear for the belay? I’m curious if it would be best to stay off this until someone more qualified than I cleans it up. 

Gear is fine.  I would avoid the climb until some cleanup happens, certainly would avoid stopping at that belay.

Not meaning to point an accusatory finger, but genuinely curious how you moved such a feature by accident.

I leaned on it, but exerted too much force in the “away from wall” direction, clearly.  I had my feet and rope in between the block and wall to make room for my follower.  Im pretty careful and it took very little force to get going.  On my previous laps up this route, out of all the questionable features that exist, this particular one did not seem particularly sketchy or poised to detach.  

The last pitch of Gambit is one of the scariest for me in Eldo, jenga blocks galore!

Fehim Hasecicwrote:

The last pitch of Gambit is one of the scariest for me in Eldo, jenga blocks galore!

The whole first pitch of the Mountaineers route is detached and just an accident waiting to happen. I would not recommend it.

One of my first climbs in eldo years ago was Gambit. I’ll never forgot walking up the approach and up the metal stairs, and watching a refrigerator sized block come stumbling down the gully and smash the stairs minutes after I had gotten past them.

Jesus Fucking Christ.

Long Rangerwrote:

Jesus Fucking Christ.

  Yeah, if you don't enjoy the thrill of an occasional spectacular rock fall, just stay clear of Eldo.

Other notable blocks that have come down in the last few years:

A 1000 lb block came off of Rewritten. Miraculously no injuries.

A 200 lb block landed on the trail between Chockstone and Xanadu last year. You can still see the crater on the trail.

A 500 lb block landed on the trail near Sunstar last year. Trail repair is still on-going.

A 500 lb block either fell off or was removed on Ignominity.

Something came off the Bastille and landed right on the road. Another block came sailing down the west side of the Bastille.

Numerous blocks coming down the Gambit approach gully has damaged this trail beyond recognition.

And the biggest of them all: A large section of the walk-off trail at the north end of Redgarden (any climb left of Rewritten will take this trail down) slid off and the trail is now rerouted. 

Mike can probably supply a five times longer list.

Fehim Hasecicwrote:

The last pitch of Gambit is one of the scariest for me in Eldo, jenga blocks galore!

Here's a solution: Set up your last belay as far left as you can on the left-slanting ledge where the rock fall occurred in the image of the OP. It is a few steps left of the "belay dot" for route #12 in that picture with a super solid anchor. From this spot, get onto the arete up and left as soon as you can. Follow this arete to the summit. This is basically the last pitch of Tiger Balm Arete (5.5).

Patrikwrote:

  Yeah, if you don't enjoy the thrill of an occasional spectacular rock fall, just stay clear of Eldo.

Been my personal survival tactic. So far so good.

Patrikwrote:

Here's a solution: Set up your last belay as far left as you can on the slanting ledge where the rock fall occurred in the image of the OP. It is a few steps left of the "belay dot" for route #12 in that picture with a super solid anchor. From this spot, get onto the arete up and left as soon as you can. Follow this arete to the summit. This is basically the last pitch of Tiger Balm.

Patrik turned me onto this beta last summer and I would highly recommend!

Howdy -

There's signage now in the gully below Shirttail advising caution in that area. On Thursday, 4/25, park personnel will close that gully, Shirttail, and climbs from the 5.8 crack to Laughing at the Moon or thereabouts while climbers evaluate and clean up the remaining choss.

As always, the freeze/thaw cycle loosens stuff up. Even if a piece of rock was bomber it's probably worth a test. It's definitely the time of year to find chalked up holds on the ground and try to figure out what climbs they came off of.

Peace out

Nathan Mwrote:

Was on gambit today 4/15 around 11AM and stopped at the final belay per Levin’s guidebook.  Dislodged a massive 300lb/2-human sized block, when i moved to the right to make space for my follower.  It went frighteningly easily. There are lots of loose cinderblock-sized blocks on the right side of this belay station now.  They would ping down mountaineers route and right onto the metal stairs on approach.  Please be careful.  I already notified Mike.  Thanks

I can't tell from your photos, is that the leaning "chair" that many folks belay from?

Anytime you dislodge large blocks in Eldo and they fall without incident, know that you in fact helped make the route safer in the future. 

Hooray for Mike and his crew!!!!

Thanks Mike!