Lead belaying directly on the anchor with a grigri

Interesting video https://youtu.be/eqZQnCGl24A

My main concern is that a grigri could get pinned against the rock 

wes calkins wrote: vimeo.com/44869774

Great video!

One hard fucking catch. That's for sure. I would be fucking pissed.

eli posswrote:

A better option than lowering the belayer is doing a chariot belay where the leader starts up the next pitch to place a jesus piece or two and then downclimbs back to the belay to bring up the follower. Then you're on TR till you get to the jesus piece and you completely avoid the potential for FF2 unless your jesus piece rips.

Trying to understand this. If I understand correctly, while you belay the follower up, the rope would feed from the anchor up to the "jesus" pieces, then back down to the follower. If the follower falls, the anchor would need to oppose an upward pull (same as if the leader falls on the next pitch). Also, if the "jesus" piece is say, 5 feet above the anchor, the follower falls, and the jesus piece fails, the follower (expecting a top rope fall) is going to fall an extra 10 feet. If the jesus piece fails during the followers fall, the anchor would need to oppose a downward pull, so you'd want a multidirectional anchor that is strong in both directions. Is this correct, or am I misunderstanding your suggestion? Seems like there's a few ways this could go badly. 

Stebe deJeebwrote:

Trying to understand this.

Nope. You have it wrong.

The rope clipped into the protection on the pitch above is ignored while belaying.

The leader belays the follower from the anchor as normal, while the leader is still clipped into the high pieces.

When the belay transition takes places from following pitch 1 to leading pitch 2, the ignored section of rope is now back in play for the leader as a top rope for them only for the beginning of the next pitch. If you’re swapping leads, there are extra steps you may need to take to keep this system working smoothly. 

This describes the difference between a chariot belay and "leading through to the first piece"

Sam Mwrote:

What about an assisted tube style device? It would provide a little extra braking force while allowing for a softer catch than a grigri

The best thing may just be to lower the belayer below the stance. 

Do you have experience with ABD tube devices? My experience with them is that they do not slip. I would not use one for this application unless someone could show sufficient rope slippage. 

Rock Climberwrote:

Gri Gri is "assisted braking" not auto locking ... maybe the gumby need to know there's a difference 

There are Gri Gri's made for route setting that have no spring. Would those be auto locking?