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Wideboyz is out of stock what should I get???

Original Post
Maximilian Goldfarb · · East Windsor · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 0

I am new to the crack climbing scene and I am looking to get a pair of gloves. I probably would have gotten some wideboyz gloves but it seems they are out of stock everywhere. Any suggestions on what I should get instead?  

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

The Ocun gloves are the most durable that I've used. The BD gloves are significantly less durable but I like the the feel of their thinner build (kind of like a thinner shoe having better sensitivity) and better thumb coverage.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The G7 crack gloves are the best and by far the most expensive.

https://www.grade7.com/pages/hand-jam

Casey J · · NH · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0
FrankPSwrote:

The G7 crack gloves are the best and by far the most expensive.

https://www.grade7.com/pages/hand-jam

Also sold out in most sizes. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Casey Jwrote:

Also sold out in most sizes. 

They have L and XL available. Other retailers sell them, also.

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Black Diamond gloves are fantastic. Highly recommend. Best all-around gloves in the game for a good price.

Ocun gloves are okay at best. Definitely not the best at anything. Do NOT recommend.

Ben Podborski · · Canadian Rockies · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 15

Clack gloves are like shoes, some are all-rounders, some are specialized, and they all have their best performance in one rock type or another. For example, the rubber and padding of the Ocun and Singing Rock gloves are great in sharp or granular rocks that would damage the hands in thinner gloves. They also excel in shallow or “smear” jams where the rubber acts like a shoe for extra friction.

The BD glove is a great all-rounder but is thin, so good for less-featured cracks like smooth granite or splitter sandstone.

The G7 is hard-wearing and comfortable, and is worn by big alpine climbers for a reason, as it’s good for all crack sizes and types, and can slip easily into mitts for belaying. And they wipe snot well. 

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Ocun has terrible thumb coverage. In fact the only gloves I have seen with thumb coverage are: 1) tape, 2) BD gloves, and 3) Wide Boyz. This affects first jams and wide cracks. 

Chalk Devourer · · IL · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

The occun pro crack gloves are new and also have thumb coverage. I haven't used them, but I like the normal version.

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Thanks - looks like the new version covers the thumb. Thanks for sharing. 

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

The bd gloves climb fantastically (esp for thinner cracks) but the durability sucks. Mine lasted 4 pitches in Indian Creek before delamming. They fit very similarly to a thin tape glove. They're still usable in their current state but are frustrating and could use a layer of shoe goo. 

My 1st gen ocuns lasted 2 valley trips (total of about month) and approx 2-3 months of climbing in the creek. They are still usable but have some delam now.

My wide Boyz are at about 2 weeks of climbing and seem indestructible albeit more cumbersome than any of my other pairs. They are my favorite by far of the 3 for wide cracks.

OR gloves are the worst and suck in most all respects, haven't tried any other offerings.

I like all of them better than tape at this point. 

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Alex Stypwrote:

The bd gloves climb fantastically (esp for thinner cracks) but the durability sucks. Mine lasted 4 pitches in Indian Creek before delamming. They fit very similarly to a thin tape glove. They're still usable in their current state but are frustrating and could use a layer of shoe goo. 

My 1st gen ocuns lasted 2 valley trips (total of about month) and approx 2-3 months of climbing in the creek. They are still usable but have some delam now.

My wide Boyz are at about 2 weeks of climbing and seem indestructible albeit more cumbersome than any of my other pairs. They are my favorite by far of the 3 for wide cracks.

OR gloves are the worst and suck in most all respects, haven't tried any other offerings.

I like all of them better than tape at this point. 

4 pitches? Mine last an entire year. I get a new pair every year.

Agreed OR gloves are terrible.

Hieu L · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0

Tape is aid

K Go · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 170

Metolius also makes a crack glove now, similar design and fit to the BD gloves, covers thumb pretty well. The material is maybe just a smidge thicker and a little stickier. I have a pair and like them so far but only have a handful of climbs with them so can't comment on durability yet. 

Ocun have their place, like if you want your tiny hands to fit in baggy #2 to #3 easier, otherwise hard to recommend for general use unless you are climbing on really sharp crystally rock. The bulky wrist strap is somewhat limiting for range of motion with my wrists which makes cranking on thumbs down jams uncomfortable. 

Newt Riverman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0
Stileswrote:

If you are going to use tape it's gotta be Mueller EuroPro!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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