New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #28

The new edition of Climbing Anchors just came out. I'm proud to have collaborated with John Long on this one. It's a project that took us nearly 2 years from inception to book in print. It's fairly comprehensive, with 359 color photos and illustrations.

Thanks to rgold for all his posts on anchoring topics over the years- I gleaned some valuable insights from his experience and knowledge.

Congratulations Bob!

Bob Gaineswrote:

The new edition of Climbing Anchors just came out. 

Oh, this reminded me that I had a long and involved climbing dream last night: Me and a partner were at the base of a vertical bolted route. For some reason, our rope was hanging on the route, one end was on the ground and the other end was high up on the route and a big tangle.  I figured we should try to pull it slowly and maybe the tangle would undo, but I expected it to be knotted and catch in the anchor.  So I got one side down but it did indeed stop pulling.  I decided to lead up from the free end, I thought there would be just enough for me to get to the anchors.  I got to the first bolt and it was some soft thin metal which I was able to pull out with my hand.  There was a gluein above this and another gluein 6 inches above the other one.  but it was also made out of some very narrow and sketchy material.  I continued up.  The holds were flaky and seemed like they would come off if I pulled at all. Every bolt was bad and I was having a hard time reaching the quickdraws on my harness for some reason, so clipping was annoying.  When I got to the anchor, it was two bad bolts, with a tangled mass of very very thin cord, like 1 mm, and some very narrow gauge hardware store chain, a big tangled mass of it.  So I had to hang there, holding onto the potato chip hold with my left hand and trying to untangle and rebuild the anchor with my right hand. Some part of my brain was trying to tell me to throw this mess of an anchor down and just leave two biners, but for some reason in my dream, it was my responsibility to use the tangled mess. I wasn't frightened during any of this, just very annoyed that whoever had put the route up had botched every part of it.  

I'll bet this dream was inspired by all the talk of bolting and Nick's speech about proper bolting.

phylp phylpwrote:

Oh, this reminded me that I had a long and involved climbing dream last night: Me and a partner were at the base of a vertical bolted route. For some reason, our rope was hanging on the route, one end was on the ground and the other end was high up on the route and a big tangle.  I figured we should try to pull it slowly and maybe the tangle would undo, but I expected it to be knotted and catch in the anchor.  So I got one side down but it did indeed stop pulling.  I decided to lead up from the free end, I thought there would be just enough for me to get to the anchors.  I got to the first bolt and it was some soft thin metal which I was able to pull out with my hand.  There was a gluein above this and another gluein 6 inches above the other one.  but it was also made out of some very narrow and sketchy material.  I continued up.  The holds were flaky and seemed like they would come off if I pulled at all. Every bolt was bad and I was having a hard time reaching the quickdraws on my harness for some reason, so clipping was annoying.  When I got to the anchor, it was two bad bolts, with a tangled mass of very very thin cord, like 1 mm, and some very narrow gauge hardware store chain, a big tangled mass of it.  So I had to hang there, holding onto the potato chip hold with my left hand and trying to untangle and rebuild the anchor with my right hand. Some part of my brain was trying to tell me to throw this mess of an anchor down and just leave two biners, but for some reason in my dream, it was my responsibility to use the tangled mess. I wasn't frightened during any of this, just very annoyed that whoever had put the route up had botched every part of it.  

I'll bet this dream was inspired by all the talk of bolting and Nick's speech about proper bolting.

This dream is far too specific to be random…

If this becomes a recurring nightmare, you should consider gym climbing as an alternative   

Phyl, sounds like you were on a Todd Gordon route.

Good grief, Phylp.  That was an intense and intricate dream!  

My morning walk, I strolled  back over to Watergate. I wanted to check out the new route. I cannot guarantee that my selfie showed the exact angle, but darn close.

Phylp that is definitely a nightmare..  my most reacuring climbing dream is that if hike around the corner of the road I grew up on in Killington VT you find a spot where you can see the Tetons in the distance but you always wake up before you can actually get to them..   I had a weird one the other day. Same road which actually has a bunch of mossy 40ft tall crags on it but only one of them is clean enough to climb. We have Three routes on it. In the dream however I was on the other end of the road where the cliffs are too mossy and over hanging to climb. In the dream they were 100ft tall instead of 40ft but still mossy and overhanging . As I climbed up I came apon three kids soloing in sneakers. They were just under the final overhang and completely sketching on the moss. Complicating the situation was a bunch of orc's at the top of the cliff trying to get at the kids that were scetched out on the verge of falling. Just when it looked like one of the orcs was going to snag one of the kids it disturbed a bees nest and the orc got swarmed and fell off. I woke up before it hit the road. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Phylp that is definitely a nightmare..  my most reacuring climbing dream is that if hike around the corner of the road I grew up on in Killington VT you find a spot where you can see the Tetons in the distance but you always wake up before you can actually get to them..   I had a weird one the other day. Same road which actually has a bunch of mossy 40ft tall crags on it but only one of them is clean enough to climb. We have Three routes on it. In the dream however I was on the other end of the road where the cliffs are too mossy and over hanging to climb. In the dream they were 100ft tall instead of 40ft but still mossy and overhanging . As I climbed up I came apon three kids soloing in sneakers. They were just under the final overhang and completely sketching on the moss. Complicating the situation was a bunch of orc's at the top of the cliff trying to get at the kids that were scetched out on the verge of falling. Just when it looked like one of the orcs was going to snag one of the kids it disturbed a bees nest and the orc got swarmed and fell off. I woke up before it hit the road. 

You, have watched far too many Hobbit movies way too many times   

Kids= Hobbits

not so much the movies but have read the book series at least 4 times.. 

I had a late start yesterday hoping  the skin track would be packed out. No such luck. apparently the real skiers were not enticed by 8" of cement

 I found the snow snakes..

Nick Goldsmithwrote: 

I presume that this is tilted and it's actually the trees that are lying down!

There’s a reason some people prefer the beaches on the north shore of Oahu to the beaches on the north shore of Alaska, but I can’t quite put my finger (or toe) on it...

Back home for a -30 beach walk. I can report that the Chukchi Sea ice is currently in great shape despite reports of its imminent disappearance.

Sunset Beach

Waimea Bay bouldering

View north from Barrow “beach” yesterday. Surf season has not yet started.

Went climbing yesterday in Tehachapi. First time at that small nice little Crag. Located at about 6,000 feet in an Oak, Pine forest. Top photo is Bill and Lola eating lunch. Yes that is snow. ( Nick, California snow- it disappears quickly)            A nice sunny day.

Bob - congrats on the book! You n John are the modern Royal- educating the young.
Nick - more cold adventures!
Colden - off the charts cold adventures!
Darell, Randy - keep giving Lori hints.
phylip - I feel your dream.
Li - be careful with the training- you can overdo it.
Lori- I can not believe you have never driven #395!!! It ranks up there with the top 3 mountain drives I have ever done. The first is the Ice Highway (or whatever the Canadians call it) - from Baniff to Jasper. The second is the highway in Switzerland, below the Eiger, Jungfrau etc. And 395 is next. How the heck do you drive home from Tahoe??? I5???
Anyway you need to fix that ASAP!
You need to join US for a few days at the Alabama Hills! The good season is starting NOW. Really fun, sunny climbing on faces with holds, right below one of the most spectacular clusters of high Mountains in the world! And Lone Pine has many nice Motels to stay at. We camp, but I know you don’t do that. The climbing is 15 minutes from town and is a bit like Josh- only better and would be a good place for you to feel what vertical (almost) with holds feels like- compared to ORG witch is a place with big holds that you can’t hang on to for long.

And Alan- Thanks for the accurate portrayal of the bolt wars. A continuing issue.
Later all

Lori- 3 weeks ago at A-Hills 

Guy Keeseewrote:

Lori- 3 weeks ago at A-Hills 

On my way there right now! Quick trip to see the gal pals. You’re looking good, Guy!

“You need to join US for a few days at the Alabama Hills! The good season is starting NOW. Really fun, sunny climbing on faces with holds, right below one of the most spectacular clusters of high Mountains in the world! And Lone Pine has many nice Motels to stay at. We camp, but I know you don’t do that. The climbing is 15 minutes from town and is a bit like Josh- only better and would be a good place for you to feel what vertical (almost) with holds feels like- compared to ORG witch is a place with big holds that you can’t hang on to for long.”

Are you inviting me to go camping with you guys? I thought you’d never ask!!! I won’t be any trouble at all. I THINK I remember how to pitch a tent.   Do we have to eat trout?  Do you guys talk about sex? 

——-

But for now I’m busy!  Can Josh just be good enough for the moment?  

Today turned out to be a slugfest.  3 100 foot routes and by the 4th suddenly body parts started giving out. I stepped up on the last/hardest 4th route… all ready to go, and my leg wouldn’t lift me.  I’m talking to my leg like “GO goddamnit!” Then my fingers couldn’t hold onto a crimp. I’m looking for left-moves only.    Both arms were pumped.  I finally had to wave the white flag.  Done.  

I have to say I’m happy. And fortunate. There had to be 400 tourists in Hidden Valley… people with kids running around and jumping on rocks. And I got to wear myself out climbing.  Who gets to do that?  Beautiful weather. Perfect rock. Great company, laughter.  

WHERE’S CARL?  

COLDEN:  BRRRRRR. Can you walk on that ice?  Fall through?  Are those caribou seasonal?  

Lori Milaswrote:

What are you on here, Lori?

Guy, looks like a great trip! have you driven bear tooth Pass? north jellystone to red lodge  montana.  dozens of great free campsites.

peak bagging everywhere

Brandt Allenwrote:

What are you on here, Lori?

Lori Milaswrote:

Right here.  

Smart ass! :)   (that's not what Brandt meant, Lori)

Maybe you read "what" as "where"?