New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #28

Li Huwrote:

Interestingly enough, boulders at V5 or above are about the same albeit no colours to grab, OTOH, no rules outside either. You can pretty much start the climb however you wish.

This is not true, at least with Touchstone gym grades vs Joshua Tree grades. I can flash V6 in the gym and V4 at Joshua Tree on a good day. And there are plenty of boulder bros who will proclaim your outdoor send invalid if you don't start on the starting holds, not to mention other transgressions like dabbing.

Sam Cieplywrote:

This is not true, at least with Touchstone gym grades vs Joshua Tree grades. I can flash V6 in the gym and V4 at Joshua Tree on a good day.

This isn’t really my experience, but then again, I started with real rock never having really gym climbed until I turned 60.  

And there are plenty of boulder bros who will proclaim your outdoor send invalid if you don't start on the starting holds, not to mention other transgressions like dabbing.

People climb “Stem Gem” backwards, is that not a send?

If starting holds are important, I would think the start would require  very specific details described in every guide book. Very few problems are described in such detail from what I’ve seen anyway?

Li Huwrote:

People climb “Stem Gem” backwards, is that not a send?

If starting holds are important, I would think the start would need very specific details described in every guide book. Very few problems are described in such detail from what I’ve seen anyway?

I think guidebooks don’t detail usually the start holds because it’s pretty obvious what they are. If you have a long reach to bypass them or stack cheat stones, no I don’t think that’s a send.

If you climb the full length of the problem backwards, no hands, naked, sure that counts (although some of these variations could certainly increase the difficulty of the problem). Eliminates, alternate start, alternate finish, then I think most would consider that a different problem which could be graded differently.

Regarding the grades, all I know is that I can climb every V5 in a Touchstone gym in a single session and I’ve never sent a V5 in Joshua Tree and I’m pretty sure it’s not just for lack of brightly colored holds.

Li Huwrote:

Gym climbs are typically a full number grade easier. 11a would be a 10a at Joshua Tree. I

It's just a completely different style of climbing.  It makes no sense to even compare the ratings of almost any gym face climbs to any Joshua Tree slab routes. if you are going to compare SoCal gym routes to an outside area, the most comparable outside area I use is the Owens River Gorge, because of the nature of the rock and climbing there.  Sender and Touchstone gym grades are typically 2-3 letter grades higher than at the Gorge, although on occasion it can be a full number grade.  And the Gorge ratings themselves can bit soft compared to other sport areas I've climbed at, but that varies a lot by route.

Geez ....started about an hour ago, looking like it means business. My construction site. 

Re stacking rocks to start something? Bouldering, that's what pads are for. Roped, I've done some rocks at one particular one, and, coming back to it? I wasn't the only one who decided it was a good idea, lol!

But, there's a why, to those stacked rocks. And, this stylistic ethic maybe is reasonable for bouldering, too?

There had been biblical rains at COR, and there was considerable erosion along this crag, exposing tree roots, even. Btw, part of the start can be using a foot to push on the tree right behind you, if it works for you, and is deemed acceptable, lol! I know trees are sometimes considered "in", but, I usually try not to disturb the fauna at all, if possible. Or the fauna, for that matter. 

One of the little guys from our bouldering trip, in February. We usually have them in very close proximity, including where hands and feet are about to land, and mantling the top outs, lol! Last time out there, for the first time, there were also spiders. That's a little more disconcerting, sticking fingers and hands in the rock ....then seeing the spider, inches from your face. Does that change the grade, ya think??

Helen 

Sam Cieplywrote:

Regarding the grades, all I know is that I can climb every V5 in a Touchstone gym in a single session and I’ve never sent a V5 in Joshua Tree 

I’m likely the exception as I can boulder harder at Joshua Tree, but likely cause I’ve done the problems many times in my youth and I’m just repeating them 20-30 pounds heavier and 30 years later… and they weren’t rated V5 at the time…

That said, I’m starting to flash gym V4 without looking at the holds until I’m established, and chalk up on the “rests”. No V5 flashes, but can do a couple V6 (as of today 2  )

On another note, Kilter Board “Grumpalump” kicked my butt, Dan Schmidt … I didn’t know how to change the angle without resetting the climb. V8 on KB is far too difficult for me…

Russ Wallingwrote:

I think Nixon said it best:  "We chose to put the bolts in this way not because it is easy, but because it is hard."

I believe that was JFK: "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard."

Bob Gaineswrote:

I believe that was JFK: "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard."

I think all this discussion of Watergate Rock and "dirty tricks" got Russ thinking about Nixon. 

But speaking of well known quotes, it was Nixon who, on November 17, 1973, infamously denied any involvement in the Watergate scandal by saying:  "I am not a crook." *

(* Which, BTW, is a 5.8 on Watergate Rock.)

I love tweaking the beta when the boulder bros are in the house,  it's as if they see rock as colored gym holds and it blows their minds when different beta is executed flawlessly.  All my simple mind  understands is getting to the top. Keeping it simple, not getting injured, not training like a sheep herding dog, and staying fit are my only goals in this hobby though, beer too.

Randywrote:

I think all this discussion of Watergate Rock and "dirty tricks" got Russ thinking about Nixon.

You guys are too easy....  To paraphrase the late great Spiro Agnew:  "And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your bolting can do for you--ask what you can do for your bolting."

Bob Gaineswrote:

I believe that was JFK: "We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard."

hahaha... no way, really?

Russ, you got to remember....you're playing three dimensional chess and we're just playing checkers...

I'm so confused.

I like chess though. 

Russ Wallingwrote:

You guys are too easy....  To paraphrase the late great Spiro Agnew:  "And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your bolting can do for you--ask what you can do for your bolting."

And I think it was Dan Quayle who said "To bolte or not to bolte, that is the question". 

I think Ronald Reagan said "The most terrifying words in the Engish language are, 'I'm from Mountain Project and I'm here to help."

Lorie, shoulder stands go way back into the 1800s and were considered free climbing up untill the sport era took over. 

Did some logging in the morning and then got antsy. Tossed the pack in the truck and drove to NH. It was busy when I got there at 3:30pm

scary thought that this is one of the only safe chunks of ice left on March 3rd without haveing to hike up into the ravine on Mt Washington.  everyone was just finishing up when I got there so I had nice solitude.

 the parasol is little this year

Foggy and misty

this place is sureal

I ham kind of over chopping holes in the ice. its a hard on my shoulder and you get splashed up with ice water. I tried the cordless sawzal but it was deathly slow progress with 2 inches of fresh ice. Probobly would need some sort of special blade?  Ended up drilling a bunch of holes in the ice which made it easier to break up. 

Still  full-on winter up here Nick. Spent a few days on St. Paul Island in the Pribilofs for work. World class surf spot that was a tightly held secret until this post. Lol. See the film Island X on Prime if you want the deets. The flight back to ANC takes you over the spot where the Alaska Range becomes the Aleutian Range. Wishicouldttellya more but some of these peaks have never been touched...

Nick. I think you need to start attending ice climbers anonymous

Colden. It looks pretty wild in your hood. I really want to take the sprinter to AK someday with Isa but life keeps getting in the way.