Madison/Devil's Lake trip - need some local advice

We are coming to Madison 3/1-3/3 for the MSU/Wis hockey games that weekend and plan on climbing during the day as both are late night games.  I haven't been on climbing trip in 9 years, basically since kids came along, we always took off to Stone Fort, Rocktown and HP40 down south before that.

Looking at things in the Dodge and Devil's Lake has definitely led me to some questions.  Devil's Lake is just so historic and so BIG in my mind, coming from MI it has always been somewhere I wanted to climb.  But...I'm also kind of into easy...easy to find problems, not hiking thru snow, problems clustered together, etc. but I am willing to walk thru whatever if the psyche is there.  We had planned on one day at the Dodge and the other at DL.  But looking at everything, closures, longer hikes, snow, etc. I am wondering if it would just be better to climb at the Dodge both days and maybe just hike around DL.  Also, everything at DL looks tall, bad landings, etc....I climb at the home crag to 20-24' for top outs, not so sure about all that on a trip and new place though.

Any recs on this?  Dodge both days?  Great place at DL for early March that we won't get lost?  I'd really appreciate any input as neither of us have ever been to Madison before.  I usually have projects that I am all geeked out for, but I just want to climb.  We are both solid v8 climbers so could climb on a nice quantity of things and all...I just have a couple fun days out there.

I think that the dodge is more user friendly but DL is far prettier, especially when there is still snow on the ground. DL has some lowballs but there are also some quite tall problems in the 20-30' range.

As far as recs, the north shore bouldering is very clustered with flat landings and only a stones throw from the parking lot which would be nice if you have the kids in tow. The area is roughly southwest facing so there should be something dry unless it precipitated recently. The CCC trail area is more complex but is very pretty.

DL might seem huge in your mind but it's really not that big. If you can see the lake, you won't get (too) lost. Since you are a visitor I'd recommend that you stick to places you can see the lake from anyway, because it's just prettier that way.

There's also a good bouldering guidebook with DL and the dodge in it. Lots of high quality pictures and topos. MP will suffice if you don't want it, just make sure you dl the pics before hand.

Thanks for all the info Israel, appreciate it for sure.  I think I may have DL a tad built up in my mind just causing some unwarranted anxiety about actually going there, its so pretty!  My friend has the book which Ill finally see tonight.

glclimber 21wrote:

We are coming to Madison 3/1-3/3 for the MSU/Wis hockey games that weekend and plan on climbing during the day as both are late night games.  I haven't been on climbing trip in 9 years, basically since kids came along, we always took off to Stone Fort, Rocktown and HP40 down south before that.

Looking at things in the Dodge and Devil's Lake has definitely led me to some questions.  Devil's Lake is just so historic and so BIG in my mind, coming from MI it has always been somewhere I wanted to climb.  But...I'm also kind of into easy...easy to find problems, not hiking thru snow, problems clustered together, etc. but I am willing to walk thru whatever if the psyche is there.  We had planned on one day at the Dodge and the other at DL.  But looking at everything, closures, longer hikes, snow, etc. I am wondering if it would just be better to climb at the Dodge both days and maybe just hike around DL.  Also, everything at DL looks tall, bad landings, etc....I climb at the home crag to 20-24' for top outs, not so sure about all that on a trip and new place though.

Any recs on this?  Dodge both days?  Great place at DL for early March that we won't get lost?  I'd really appreciate any input as neither of us have ever been to Madison before.  I usually have projects that I am all geeked out for, but I just want to climb.  We are both solid v8 climbers so could climb on a nice quantity of things and all...I just have a couple fun days out there.

Don’t forget your blow torch to warm up the holds.

I will second the North shore area. It is 15 seconds from the parking lot, and very dense with problems. It’s a historic area so expect some sandbags and height. Mostly low but stiffish grades. An easy way to get a lot classic DL style climbing in.   mountainproject.com/area/10…


I would also say Burma area. It’s in the woods and doesn’t have a real “The Lake” vibe but it’s a 5 minute walk from the car and dense with problems with very flat good landings. Classics from V0 to V8. But if there’s snow on the ground maybe not the best place.   mountainproject.com/area/10…


I haven’t been to Dodge, but I think that’s as known for highballs as DL.

Tony Swrote:
I would also say Burma area. It’s in the woods and doesn’t have a real “The Lake” vibe but it’s a 5 minute walk from the car and dense with problems with very flat good landings. Classics from V0 to V8. But if there’s snow on the ground maybe not the best place. mountainproject.com/area/10…

Note that Burma Road is closed until sometime in April, see the page comments. 

If you don't care about a view of the lake, the reserve area is quite nice, especially in your grade range.

I’ve always been confused .. does that road actually close? I know no one plows it but I thought if there wasn’t snow there wasn’t any real closure.

Only reason I didn’t recommend the reserve is the 30 minute hike. But… if you’re willing it’s one of the very best. Very worth it. 

I definitely appreciate all the help on this.

I want to take in as much of the park as possible, feel the vibe, get some views and just take in what it is to climb at DL.  No projects, no grade chasing, no agenda which is very odd for me but that's where I am with this and just want climb.  Not psyched to climb v2 all day or anything, but would definitely wander in and out of grades depending on how nice the problem is and ease of access.  My partner is a little timid on heights as she messed up her ankle pretty bad a few years from a fall high up.  I tend to bomb down from wherever but getting over 20' is a bit sketch for me.