New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #27

That's the Wedge.

Brandt Allenwrote:

That's the Wedge.

Check out Sundog Chimney to the right of the dike route.

Thanks guys!  I’m a little confused still.  Does any route go directly up the upper headwall?  

I shall return tomorrow and take a second look.  I also wanted to look more closely at these rocks to the right.

Lori Milaswrote:

I also wanted to look more closely at these rocks to the right.

That’s Sundog Chimney.

Lori Milaswrote:

Thanks guys!  I’m a little confused still.  Does any route go directly up the upper headwall?  

I shall return tomorrow and take a second look.  I also wanted to look more closely at these rocks to the right.

I looked at that diamond shaped thing (I guess it is the Wedge?) a million years ago and there was no route on that face that I could see.  But.... it looked like it needed one.

Russ Wallingwrote:

It is a mistake to confuse someone holding up a reality mirror and snark.  

But, here is picture of Trespassers  for you.  You can hear the feet crunching from here....

Snark? In NYC your snark would be the equivalent of, "No, no, please, you go first. And have a nice day!" 

Lori Milaswrote:

Thanks guys!  I’m a little confused still.  Does any route go directly up the upper headwall?  

I shall return tomorrow and take a second look.  I also wanted to look more closely at these rocks to the right.

The close up shots you took of this climb look fantastic! The bolt line looks exactly like the sort of climb I would enjoy. Any sport route at Josh looks cool, and I did one a few months back.

My issue with climbing sport climbs in JTree are all the “bolting police” chopping bolts. I’ve no idea of the integrity of the climbs? You get up to any of the bolts and who knows if they’re safe or not? Don’t trust that someone may or may not have tampered with them?

As far as I know, the bolt wars in JT have come and gone some time ago. Chances of finding a route having been chopped (or vandalized) are pretty slim.

Brandt Allenwrote:

As far as I know, the bolt wars in JT have come and gone some time ago. Chances of finding a route having been chopped (or vandalized) are pretty slim.

Absolutely.

Randywrote:

Absolutely.

Good to know… it’s going to take some time to gain that trust back for many such as myself.

Also - due to the efforts of a number of people (Mr. Gaines being one of them), a lot of old crappy bolts have been replaced with reliable modern hardware.

Li Huwrote:

My issue with climbing sport climbs in JTree are all the “bolting police” chopping bolts. I’ve no idea of the integrity of the climbs? You get up to any of the bolts and who knows if they’re safe or not? Don’t trust that someone may or may not have tampered with them?

That's a ridiculous fear.  Nobody is tampering with bolts, save for that criminal nutcase from Oregon, and that was sorted out.

The whole point of chopping bolts is to erase a route usually due to a style infraction.  Thus, ALL the bolts are removed.  If there are shiny bolts on a route, clip them and have no fear.  

its usually 

I went back to have a second look at the situation. I see the right leaning dyke traverse, and the left leaning traverse, some pretty hard climbing on those routes. The one bolt I saw on the upper face is very low and now I think perhaps it’s an anchor. How can it be that no one thought of putting a route up on that beautiful upper face? Well. I have thought of it … 

As for Russ holding his own in New York, I would never bet against Russ. He’s an assassin. So far I don’t believe all that therapy has helped one bit.  

Pictures don’t do these rocks justice. this is the Decompensator on steroids.

"How can it be that no one THOUGHT of putting a route up on that beautiful upper face?"

Given the number of routes in the immediate vicinity, I'm guessing that 'someone', likely several 'someones', did think of it. Quite possibly they even tried to do so. Most likely there is a good reason that no route has been established on it. Still that should be added incentive for you to give it a try. Since it is 2024 and not 1980, you can give it a try on top-rope without facing 'arrest' by the ethics police---looks like there are a 6 and an 8 on the back and an anchor right on top of that upper wall. Sounds like a great challenge for you. Let us know how it goes.

I'm finally selling my 2011 Forrester and this is what is breaking my heart.  Saying goodbye to 12 years of climbing stickers.

Thank you so much for your encouragement Alan. (And thank you Greg for the map!). I so enjoy exploring alone and seeing what I see.  Bob usually says “If there could have been a route there I would have done it.”  But every now and then I strike it rich.  What I am learning is that there is no way to know if a route will go until you step foot on it and then you find the fatal flaw.  

——

I just ordered a new electrolyte formula… it’s in a capsule. The idea is that you take 1-8 capsules daily with your water or other fluids instead of mixing in powders.  

I admit I’ve gotten a little obsessed over this.  With all my hiking and exercise, add in diabetes, I just can’t seem to keep ahead of hydration.  I showed up in the ER twice last year with low sodium, calcium and protein levels.  What I like about this formula is that it has all minerals we need—boron, manganese etc, not just the 4 big ones.  

Greg Oplandwrote:

Lori, when we meet, I may be up for these climbs!

Thanks Everybody for helping me understand the bolt situation at JTree.

I don't think either of the two possible routes to the summit of the Wedge are anything to write home about.
Seems like the 5.8 (Hex) was a pretty grim looking wide crack as I recall. We didn't grunt up into the notch to have a look at the 5.6.
Neither of which would stop Bob from setting up a TR, if he was properly motivated, obviously.