Autobelay accident

Alan Rubinwrote:

I agree with this. I know a couple of very experienced climbers who committed this error. What I am trying to comprehend is why does this  mistake happen so frequently? It seems that clipping in to your harness with a locking biner is such a simple and straightforward maneuver as is double checking that you have in fact done so, but for some reason too many folks fail to do this properly. While it could be that the seemingly routine nature of the process is the problem---familiarity breeds contempt?--especially in the gym context where one tends to climb many more pitches per session than outside, the same could be said for tying in for regular gym routes. While there are tying in mistakes as well, of course, they do seem to be much less frequent than those with autobelay clip-ins.

The phenomenon of more accidents correlated with more experience is well-documented. It has to do with familiarity and routine. The more experienced you are, the more likely you will skip a step (e.g. checking your partner’s knot). When you’re new, fear keeps sloppy in check.

In tort law (civil law) we learn that this phenomenon is found everywhere. It’s not just a climbing thing.

Andy McAdamswrote:

The phenomenon of more accidents correlated with more experience is well-documented. It has to do with familiarity and routine. The more experienced you are, the more likely you will skip a step (e.g. checking your partner’s knot). When you’re new, fear keeps sloppy in check.

In tort law (civil law) we learn that this phenomenon is found everywhere. It’s not just a climbing thing.

The fact that "tort law" is not tortilla law is quite disappointing. 

Today I observed a guy on his auto belay with a quick draw on his harness in order to clip the bolts for a rest while working his project. I was intrigued as I’d not seen that before.

Make the first hand holds out of reach unless you step up on a small spring loaded fold out step that retracts back against the wall once it is unweighted.  There can be foot chips on the lower part of the wall.  The auto-belay line clips into the step when not in use, but cannot be clipped to the step or wall when the step is deployed.  If someone lets go of the auto-belay line it retracts all the way up (higher than your waist when you start to lower) which sets off a red light and buzzer, which means everyone has to come down and wait for a staff person to come out with an extendable stick clip to retrieve it, which would be embarrassing.  Sure there are ways to deliberately by-pass this system by doing a running jump for the first holds or by having someone else hold the auto belay line while you climb without it, but it might prevent more of the forgetful accidents.  It would mean losing a couple feet of climbing which would be unfortunate on some of the short walls I have seen these things set up on.   

Bouldering is so much more simple 

There’s a system I’ve seen that I think works pretty well ie it makes it pretty hard to climb without clipping in and isn’t terribly annoying.

The autobelay biner is clipped to a rectangular piece of fabric (stiffened across the top edge with a piece of PVC or something) that’s about 4 feet high and 3 feet wide.

 This is fixed to the base of the wall so it  gets pulled up and covers the starting holds of the route when the auto belay is clipped to it giving both a visual and physical reminder that you are not clipped in. 

nowherewrote:

There’s a system I’ve seen that I think works pretty well ie it makes it pretty hard to climb without clipping in and isn’t terribly annoying.

The autobelay biner is clipped to a rectangular piece of fabric (stiffened across the top edge with a piece of PVC or something) that’s about 4 feet high and 3 feet wide.

 This is fixed to the base of the wall so it  gets pulled up and covers the starting holds of the route when the auto belay is clipped to it giving both a visual and physical reminder that you are not clipped in. 

The Front in Ogden UT has this and just recently someone hit the top. Maybe more fabric should be added to prevent people from climbing around barrier. Instead they opted for a 2 clip system. I'm not sure how that helps, if people aren't going to clip in, they won't clip in, regardless of one or 2 clips.

I've always wondered if having to tie in to the autobelay would be enough pause to get people paying attention? Just enough rope to do that? And yes, then it is no longer a totally brainless activity to hop on the auto....hmmmm.

Old lady Hwrote:

I've always wondered if having to tie in to the autobelay would be enough pause to get people paying attention? Just enough rope to do that? And yes, then it is no longer a totally brainless activity to hop on the auto....hmmmm.

Good idea but how would you keep the rope from recoiling when not in use?

Tradibanwrote:

Good idea but how would you keep the rope from recoiling when not in use?

Tie the rope in at the bottom. Don't make it complicated 

BigCountrywrote:

Tie the rope in at the bottom. Don't make it complicated 

Zero people will tie that back down when done.

Tradibanwrote:

Zero people will tie that back down when done.

...

Tradibanwrote:

Zero people will tie that back down when done.

I don't have a cure for worthlessness

hope hes ok! stupid accident that couldve been easily avoidable!

While Artem's 3 point checklist is very appropriate for most folks, it is worth pointing out that #3 isn't happening when you fall off en route--which happens frequently and #2 isn't realistic for speed climbers. That leaves #1 as most essential---and really should be a triple check at that stage.

Up to this point, every other “forget-to-clip-in” accident that has happened (and there have been many) have had nothing to do with social media.

Forgot to clip because of climate change.