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Morocco Info and Tips

Original Post
Forrest · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

Looking for any and all info and tips on Morocco.  I am looking at climbing in Todra Gorge which seems to be the hub for climbing by far. Does anyone have any experiences climbing anywhere else in the country? How about rest day activities/non-climbing adventures?

Also a big question is has anyone been to climb in Morocco since the recent earthquake? I'm wondering how things are currently and if it is still good to climb there at the moment.  Just trying to avoid a situation of traveling to find out some major climbing destinations are inaccessible or too inhospitable to travelers since the quake. Any thoughts or general tips for would be appreciated!

colten moore · · Marquette, MI · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 70

Hey DM me!

I went in 2020 and can give ya some good beta. We climbed in Taghia Gorge, Todra Gorge, and Akchour Valley over almost a month long trip. 

Pretty amazing scenery, culiture, and rad climbing. Also some dislikes and challenges. 

Alex Buisse · · Halifax, NS, CA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 93

I was there for climbing in 2012 and traveled to the country again in 2019 and 2022 (no climbing, though). Taghia tends to be a lot more active than Todra. There is also some climbing in the Anti-Atlas but I have never been.

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

If you do include Taghia and Todra in your trip, I'd highly recommend you do this connecting hike between the two.  We did it Taghia to Todra and it put us within a short drive of the latter.  It's a pretty long day crossing some high passes but you can arrange a guide with a donkey to carry your stuff.  Nice scenery of the high Atlas and a cool experience; also a nice rest day activity.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,821

Some of the canyoneering venues out of Tafraoute are pretty good.  Gobs of climbing there as well.  Granite and quartzite.  Town is a great hang.

Forrest · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

I love the idea to cross over Taghia to Todra, thanks for the tip.  I wasn't really aware that there was as much climbing in Taghia canyon, I thought it was mostly concentrated in Todra.  Is this not the case?  Anybody have any thoughts on climbing in one vs the other?

I've got tickets for a 2 week trip in April so anything to offer in terms of beta is greatly appreciated.  Cheers!

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

Taghia is a massive canyon and not fully developed. Mostly sport bolted by French climbers.

https://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Taghia.html

 Christian Ravier wrote a guide:


http://climbmorocco.com/taghia-guidebook/

apross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,973

For great long and short trad lines.

  
Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,541

Out of Tafraout, I wasn't particularly stoked on the granite to the south, but the quartzite walls to the north were inspiring with stunning views. We did some trad lines, but it seemed like good potential for long sport. 

colten moore · · Marquette, MI · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 70

You could easily spent a few weeks in Taghia, as most routes are full day endeavors. The route below was amazing! Make sure you go the extra easy pitches to the summit. We stayed with Mohamed Rezki, he has a great place to stay and has all the beta and printed guidebook pages. His Whatsapp is +212 632-382762. Will arrange donkeys to get your gear in as well. Overall Taghia in my opinion is cooler than Todra. Todra is really busy with tourists just wandering around and people trying to sell you carpets while you belay. plus really sharp rock. La Classique is an enjoyable moderate there. But Taghia is wild and adventurous and beautiful and remote. Maybe some of the biggest limestone faces in the world? 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/123427512/au-nom-de-la-reforme

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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