Source for SS staple style glue-ins?

Revisiting a project to add tamper-proof gluein anchors to a local crag that sees a lot of TR access. The best solution I’ve been able to come up with is using staples  threaded with a foot or two of SS chain to allow a good hang for folks leading and lowering while maintaining access to the anchor for those just setting a TR. However, I’m having trouble finding a source for bolts of this style available in SS. Can anyone suggest a manufacturer? 

Team-tough might be able to help you out. Not sure if they do custom length chain in these but it's worth checking.

https://www.team-tough.com/6mm-x-100mm-twist-bolt-w-4-chain-links

I requested a quote for 18 inch chain on their bolts  sometime in the last few years and don’t remember receiving a reply. I’m a big fan of their bolts and rams horns though. I’ve already got a stash of 304 chain in the garage so just buying staples seemed easier.

They're usually called U bolts 

https://hownot2.store/products/u-bolt-80mm?variant=47630851047739

Dan Bachenwrote:

Revisiting a project to add tamper-proof gluein anchors to a local crag that sees a lot of TR access. The best solution I’ve been able to come up with is using staples  threaded with a foot or two of SS chain to allow a good hang for folks leading and lowering while maintaining access to the anchor for those just setting a TR. However, I’m having trouble finding a source for bolts of this style available in SS. Can anyone suggest a manufacturer? 

Why u bolts...those things area pain to install compared to more traditional glue ins and offer really no advantage for the scenarios you're describing.
Threading chain sounds weird too, just use quick links to attach chain and if you want them permanent, lock tite em' or JB weld em'.

I do like the idea of capturing the chain in the U.  A quicklink costs money and is not tamper proof, you can probably remove jb weld from a quicklink with a hammer and chisel in under 30 seconds, or maybe even just break the JB weld off with a sharp rock.  Loctite is also not permanent.

You can also buy normal glue ins with fixed hardware like oliunid.com/raumer-stainles…;

I have also seen them on twist bolts as well.

Jim Daywrote:

I do like the idea of capturing the chain in the U.  A quicklink costs money and is not tamper proof, you can probably remove jb weld from a quicklink with a hammer and chisel in under 30 seconds, or maybe even just break the JB weld off with a sharp rock.  Loctite is also not permanent.

Bro, how desperate are people in Tx for quicklinks?!? 

Jim Daywrote:

I do like the idea of capturing the chain in the U.  A quicklink costs money and is not tamper proof, you can probably remove jb weld from a quicklink with a hammer and chisel in under 30 seconds, or maybe even just break the JB weld off with a sharp rock.  Loctite is also not permanent.

Chain costs money too....So fail to see the reasoning really. And they of course make regular glue ins with chain already fixed to it.
Good luck getting JB weld off a QL hanging on a rock face with a hammer and chisel! Video please, Happy to mail ya some locked down links on a hanger for the effort.
In the end, basically nothing is tamper proof, but both those methods will sure make you have to come prepared or at least try real hard. Loctite 2700 is some serious stuff.

If your really concerned with folks breaking open Ql's with loctite/JB, you can always grind few edges of the hexed barrel once cranked down at home on a regular glue in. Hell, just hit it with a tack from a welder after assembly at home.

caveat to all of this is if anyone is really coming after gear like on purpose that I would assume they brought a hydraulic cutter or grinder anyway to be quick as possible with the least effort.

Mr Rogerswrote:

Chain costs money too....So fail to see the reasoning really. And they of course make regular glue ins with chain already fixed to it.
Good luck getting JB weld off a QL hanging on a rock face with a hammer and chisel! Video please, Happy to mail ya some locked down links on a hanger for the effort.
In the end, basically nothing is tamper proof, but both those methods will sure make you have to come prepared or at least try real hard. Loctite 2700 is some serious stuff.

If your really concerned with folks breaking open Ql's with loctite/JB, you can always grind few edges of the hexed barrel once cranked down at home on a regular glue in. Hell, just hit it with a tack from a welder after assembly at home.

caveat to all of this is if anyone is really coming after gear like on purpose that I would assume they brought a hydraulic cutter or grinder anyway to be quick as possible with the least effort.

The methods you're proposing of using quick links with jb weld, loctite, grinding and tack welding are all more expensive, time consuming, less tamper-proof and probably less strong than what the OP is suggesting.  

Dan said his anchors are top rope accessible, so we're not talking about "hanging on a rock face with a hammer and chisel".  But DM me for my mailing address to send me those quick links.

The cost of chain doesn't change whether you're connecting the chain directly to a U bolt, or connecting it with a quick link.  It's still the cost of 18" of chain, but your method has the added $5 cost of a quick link.

Yes there's bolts with chain already fixed, but as Dan said, he's unable to find ones available with 18" of chain, so if you have a source, please share.

Dan Wwrote:

Team-tough might be able to help you out. Not sure if they do custom length chain in these but it's worth checking.

https://www.team-tough.com/6mm-x-100mm-twist-bolt-w-4-chain-links

I make them for team-tough and any length chain is available, I'm making 40 of them today,. Just ask Dave.

For joining chains quicklinks aren't the only solution, rivet links are also available in stainless steel and are tamperproof. Look for anchor chain rivet links.

Jim Tittwrote:

I make them for team-tough and any length chain is available, I'm making 40 of them today,. Just ask Dave.

For joining chains quicklinks aren't the only solution, rivet links are also available in stainless steel and are tamperproof. Look for anchor chain rivet links.

I’ll probably end up going that route. Was hoping to use some chain I’ve got cached but I’m sure I can find another project to use it on.

Just for some background on why I’m not going with chain attached to bolts with a quick link. This is an area that gets a lot of non-climber traffic since you can walk to the top of the rock.  A few years ago someone brought a wrench up and removed all the top hardware. I’m worried that even if I bond the link shut it would encourage any vandals to try to wrench it off and potentially damage the hardware. A chain through the bolt makes it obvious that cutting something would be required to remove it and if they go that route there isn’t really any way to protect the anchors. 

https://e-rigging.com/products/stainless-u-bolts-with-oversized-head-1?variant=40187369390153

I'd be shocked if the 3/8" version of these with 1/2" holes and epoxy wouldn't rate out to 20+ kn. Probably more like 40+kn in good rock. 

DrRockso RRGwrote:

https://e-rigging.com/products/stainless-u-bolts-with-oversized-head-1?variant=40187369390153

I'd be shocked if the 3/8" version of these with 1/2" holes and epoxy wouldn't rate out to 20+ kn. Probably more like 40+kn in good rock. 

I was thinking the same thing, i ordered some yesterday from erigging to check out, along with some of the titanium ones from hownot2

Dan Bachenwrote:

Revisiting a project to add tamper-proof gluein anchors to a local crag that sees a lot of TR access. The best solution I’ve been able to come up with is using staples  threaded with a foot or two of SS chain to allow a good hang for folks leading and lowering while maintaining access to the anchor for those just setting a TR. However, I’m having trouble finding a source for bolts of this style available in SS. Can anyone suggest a manufacturer? 

pretty obvious, but just a quick note on tamper 'proof'/theft - anybody with an angle grinder can easily cut through the top link on the chain and booty it along with any attached hardware.

If non climbers are taking a grinder to fixed gear maybe it's best to end the routes a few feet lower so it's not so accessible.

Kyle McPheeterswrote:

If non climbers are taking a grinder to fixed gear maybe it's best to end the routes a few feet lower so it's not so accessible.

Agree 100%. Unfortunately this is one of the few crags in the area that has good TR access so I’m not included to move the anchor lower. Another option that seemed to make sense would be glueins up top and a sport anchor over the lip. More expensive and probably confusing for folks with less experience.

I got some of the Titan bolts off hownot2 and they are pretty sweet.  I also got some U bolts from e-rigging but they're a little short for my liking... But probably ok in hard rock.  For the extra cash, the Titans are worth it.  Hownot2 had fast and cheap shipping, e-rigging not so much... Also e-rigging shipped short because their website inventory was off, I'll be processing a return.

Pics and video below.  This was my first time using U- bolts and it went pretty smooth, but if you can't drill straight holes, there could be problems (especially with these long ones):

Get two kryptonite u locks remove the rubber from the shackle grind small groves into the metal put a chain on and glue them in! 

Caj Corriganwrote:

Get two kryptonite u locks remove the rubber from the shackle grind small groves into the metal put a chain on and glue them in! 

Please don't, they are not stainless and extremely difficult to cut through so next to impossible to extract 

Sick work Jim!  What adhesive are you using?