"I can't use a grigri" is a massive red flag?

J Lwrote:

My understanding of this is that collecting a large loop of rope on the brake side is not necessary for assisting with paying out slack. When this is done the brake strand is unweighted and a slow leader fall may cause the Grigri to not lock up at all until the entirety of the loop is fed though.

Unless I'm mistaken and this is part of how you belay on a Grigri as a lefty

True, and yes, it’s the “lefty bit”.

I should have made myself clear how I loop the rope. It’s exactly what Petzl advises for left handed lead belay.

I’d also like to clarify that I sort of like my GriGri. TR/projecting is very convenient with the GriGri, so, I’ve no complaints there and also why I still have a GriGri. 

"I said I Never Had Much Use For One. Never Said I Didn't Know How To Use One". -- Matthew Quigley,

climbing is not an ambidextrous sport. Your beta is dependent upon your dominant side

Please explain!

grug gwrote:

Recently went climbing with a new partner. He told me that he can't use a grigri because he constantly short ropes with it. Instead he uses a wild country revo which is obviously superior to an ATC. 

Is this a red flag? Grigris aren't that hard to use. 

You should just make them belay you while you hangdog your project for 30 mins. They'll get tired of holding the brake and be begging you to show them how to use the grigri. Lol

When I started climbing, we  belayed with  a figure 8 , then stitch plates, then tube style belay  devices, then guide ATC. Somewhere along the way, I’ve also belayed with a Munter hitch and even on occasion a hip belay. I actually caught somebody on a hip  belay once. I can  belay was a Gri Gri . I feel that a short rope  people occasionally with the gri gri, although I am getting better at it. You can teach an old dog new tricks but it is hard. I’ve definitely seen people give poor belays with a gri gri and have personally been short roped many times, but I might’ve been short roped by those belayers  with any device.  I personally feel it’s the belayer not the device

Charlie Kissickwrote:

I recently used a revo for the first time and liked it a lot. More than a gri gri. Why aren’t they more common?

Expensive heavy and you have to have tension on the brake if they're hanging. Also by the nature of the auto locking mechanism the climber has to fall some distance before the device engages, not so with a vergo and less so with a grigri. It does have the benefit of not being easily overridden which is better for the gumbys. 

nowherewrote:

Yellow flag.

I like the self awareness and communication, but come on now-it’s not hard to use a grigri correctly. I’d have more questions/be keeping an eye on them, and if they were an otherwise good partner I’d probably just spend 20 minutes to teach them.

I see a lot of “use a Munter/sticht plate/hip belay whatever, just don’t drop me” here which like seriously? My standards are wayyyyy higher than “just don’t drop me”.

So I can't belay you with my figure 8?

A title like this …

I can't use a grigri" is a massive red flag?

… screams …

I probably don’t have time to invest in assessing a potential partner

… which is a red flag in itself.

(@ 4 pages in which hopefully means I’m repeating someone)

Okay, 45 lead belays with a GriGri since my first post in this thread, it’s as easy as an ATC… it’ll be my gym belay device. No longer a noob whom flashes 5.12a.   

Still going to use an ATC outdoors though. 

J Lwrote:

My understanding of this is that collecting a large loop of rope on the brake side is not necessary for assisting with paying out slack. When this is done the brake strand is unweighted and a slow leader fall may cause the Grigri to not lock up at all until the entirety of the loop is fed though.

Unless I'm mistaken and this is part of how you belay on a Grigri as a lefty

The extra loop method also risks rope burn on your other hand (the climber strand) if someone falls while you have that loop out and you don't let go. Better to just learn right handed belay if it's really the only method. As a lefty I'm just used to being discriminated against

FrankPSwrote:

Oh, good - another Grigri thread.

Surely, this will be the one that settles them all.

Li Huwrote:

Hahaha, maybe true.

Gym climbing is growing, we’ll just need to adapt to gym/sport climbing methods.

GriGri or other anssisted braking devices are required by many gyms for what I was told “insurance purposes”. Makes sense.

But for multi-pitch and anything requiring two rope rappels, ATC is difficult to beat. Simplicity is sometimes better.

Each has its place.

I think this is my moment.

I would like to introduce you to simulrappeling. 

Just trying to check off as many boxes for this thread.

Connor Dobsonwrote:

I think this is my moment.

I would like to introduce you to simulrappeling. 

Just trying to check off as many boxes for this thread.

Thanks, but until I get my weight under control this method likely would end up with me effectively being lowered.  

Maybe next year after my weight loss goals are met?

Reasons why Gri Gri is superior:

Easier navigation of IG.

Allows one to pet your dog at the crag (or shoo them away from the sandwich they are trying to get to in someone’s pack).

Maintains a free hand to scratch whatever itches.

Allows feelings of inclusiveness with other gym brahs.

Related: thereby creating better feelings of self-worth tied to climbing.

Allows MP shitposting.

Easier use of Rocky Talkie.

Easier to create good memes.

Allows reading copy of Hustler found on Chickenhead Ledge while partner is leading. (Fact!)

Much preferred when your partner is projecting the World’s Hardest 5.8.

Allows easier viewing of Taylor Swift livestreams.

Promotes feeling of superiority over anyone who would use any other device, for any reason.

Allows Google researching of that climbing dream you had last night.

Allows one to thoughtfully stroke one’s chin as you ponder Gatekeeping in the Community.

Provides an open hand for a vape pen.

Easier to swig from one of the three Nalgene water bottles brought on a 2 pitch route.

It frees up a hand for trundling.

apogeewrote:

Allows reading copy of Hustler found on Chickenhead Ledge while partner is leading. (Fact!)

Pics or it didn't happen.

But your post is still pure gold.

Will C wrote:

Just get a Gigajul. Tis far superior.

Looks to be, but is excluded from the list of "gym approved" devices at all my gyms. Mega and the original are okay.

I'd write a "cons" for the GriGri, but would likely get kicked out of this thread by more Petzl*** sales personnel.  

*** I do own two Nomics, and speak some French...and use my GriGri at least two times a week.  

Li Huwrote:

Looks to be, but is excluded from the list of "gym approved" devices at all my gyms. Mega and the original are okay.

I'd write a "cons" for the GriGri, but would likely get kicked out of this thread by more Petzl*** sales personnel.  

*** I do own two Nomics, and speak some French...and use my GriGri at least two times a week.  

Curious what all is "approved" by your gym. I've never heard of a gym having a list. I've been to ones that required assisted braking though. 

Matthew Bellwrote:

Curious what all is "approved" by your gym. I've never heard of a gym having a list. I've been to ones that required assisted braking though. 

Common to all my gyms are GriGri, Jul original or Mega, one more I believe? Giga is not allowed.

Two allow ATC and prefer beginners to use ATC, but one is a 30-120 minute drive into downtown and the same back. The other was written up in “Climbing”, and I plan to go back when the staffers at the “location” get all their back pay for the “situation” that occurred there. 

They’re all great gyms, and I’ve learnt to use the GriGri effectively this past week. So, I’m hoping I’m no longer “that red flag person”   

Ability to handle a grigri is so far down on my list of important partner characteristics as to not even be, on the list. I don't care what sort of hat they wear, either. I don't even want to know what they do for a living, for sukfake.

Robert Swrote:

Pics or it didn't happen.