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The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,676
Jose Gutierrez wrote:

Hey Kevin, thanks for the good feedback.  I was planning on tagging up the haul line and the kit so the weight and bulk won't be a problem but that makes sense that having it be lower being problematic.  On thing you could also help me conceptualize is the master biner. My strategy was to lead, then set up a quad anchor with large "master" biners  to the bolt(the orange one in my setup), and then clip the haul kit to that biner.  If there are only 2 bolts at a belay does everyone make the the haul biner part of the anchor? 

No, I think most people use a large locking carabiner on each bolt.  Then everything else gets clipped to this.  I haul off one bolt all the time to get the haul as high as possible on the anchor.  So the main carabiner clipped to the bolt ends up with cord, plus my master hauling carabiner, plus docking carabiners for the bags.  Things get full fast...just make sure you keep the anchor organized and anticipate what you want where.  Here is an example picture of the way I do an anchor setup.  The only difference in real life is that I would never haul from the center bolt....keep the haul/bags on 1 end of he anchor. So just move that 2:1 haul kit from the center over to the left where my bags are docked and that is how I run every anchor.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Three bolts, three biners, three knots. Done. 

Why do you feel the need for the lower two biners?

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Jose Gutierrez wrote:

Hi all!  Fist off thanks to Mark, Skot and everyone here contributing so much valuable information.  I have a question about the setup that I don't understand that I would love to get some clarification on.  In Mark's first post the latest greatest system used Skot's Steal perma draw to attach the micro trax to the same carabiner that had the Z chord and the CMC pro swivel.  

My question is, is there any advantage to having all 3 things (perma to micro, the CMC pro swivel, and Z chord) attached to the same carabiner?  Playing with the system I thought it might be more convenient to attach the micro trax separately to the "master" carabiner (the one on a bolt, shown in my image as the orange carabiner), is there a disadvantage to doing it this way instead?

The only disadvantage I can see is that the micro track is now a little bit lower. Having it on its own Beaner is completely neither here nor there.

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,676
Mark Hudon wrote:

Three bolts, three biners, three knots. Done. 

Why do you feel the need for the lower two biners?

Mark I use those lower 2 for fixing lines and organization.  Nice to be able to clip my aid ladders in lower down if I need to for hauling or access the haul bags.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Marlin Thorman wrote:

Mark I use those lower 2 for fixing lines and organization.  Nice to be able to clip my aid ladders in lower down if I need to for hauling or access the haul bags.

I see those things as completely useless but as I’ve always said, there are many ways to skin the big wall cat, and if your technique doesn’t slow you down or complicate things excessively it’s good to go.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Marlin,

Let me make a few suggestions.

You’re docking both of your bags directly onto that biner on the left.

For one, that causes the bags to hang together and be extremely difficult to get into. Also, you’re adding two biners to that one anchor biner and taking up a lot of space there.

 Build yourself a “anchor kit”, two of your big locker beers should be set up like quick draws. The bags should be docked to those lower quick draw biners. This will keep the bags separate and it’ll also free up space on your anchor Biner.

I don’t see how your low biners gives you any advantage at all, fixing a rope or lowering out a bag can easily be done from the main anchor. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Mark Hudon wrote:

 Build yourself a “anchor kit”, two of your big locker beers should be set up like quick draws. The bags should be docked to those lower quick draw biners. This will keep the bags separate and it’ll also free up space on your anchor Biner.

Did somebody say Cock Dockers?   

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35
Quinn Hatfield wrote:

Did somebody say Cock Dockers?   

Cockadoodledoo!

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187
Quinn Hatfield wrote:

Did somebody say Cock Dockers?   

I have to ask what exactly those are for?

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Finn Lanvers wrote:

I have to ask what exactly those are for?

If you’re a good Hudon Disciple you’ll climb with “Hudon Anchor Kits” (pictured above) and tie your anchors with the rope.. you’ll then “dock” your Haul Bags vía each Bags personal docking cord (Skots Wall Gear) on the end of the DogBones… 


the Cock-Dockers is what happens when 2 weirdos can’t just let a joke be a joke and actually have to get it custom made for their next wall… 
Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35
Finn Lanvers wrote:

I have to ask what exactly those are for?

That's a pair of Hudon-style wall anchor kits, upgraded with cock rings and sewn slings in lieu of the docking quickdraws. Slick. 

See:



Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

Anybody use the grivel vlad for this?

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2
Quinn Hatfield wrote:

Did somebody say Cock Dockers?   

Am I the only one seeing that you are pulling against the stitching when loading the carabiners, in such a way that it would rip it?

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Cock a Dooooooodle Doooooooo

Ah Quinn…..   I’m ashamed I succumbed to you degeneracy!!! 

Brian R · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 1
Quinn Hatfield wrote:


the Cock-Dockers is what happens when 2 weirdos can’t just let a joke be a joke and actually have to get it custom made for their next wall… 

How big are those rings that you’re using compared to a Petzl (Cock)Ring Open?  
Also did you happen to weigh them?  It would be cool if they happen to save some weight over the lockers that they replaced.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Quinn’s idea is more novel than useful. Sure, you can do it that way but you’ll have to thread the whole of your docking cord through the ring rather than opening a gate.
Let’s say that the rings weigh one ounce and the biners, two ounces. Using a common biner there (there is absolutely NO need to use a locker there) would save you maybe 1.5 ounces. BFD!


On a wall, eventually, you’re gonna end up with your partner’s anchor kit. Quinn’s kit would last 10 seconds with me. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

All I heard was me and Mark are climbing El Cap 


  

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Mark and Quinn for the ElCap Winn!!!!

Ben Podborski · · Canadian Rockies · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 15

hello everyone 

I did a little recreational hauling last month with my 2:1 Cric set up, and it went well! Easy to switch to a 1:1 with the same item also.

Does anyone else have any use and reviews?

edit: I have it on the down-strand as a tractor/pulley to replace the Basic. 

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Ben Podborski wrote:

hello everyone 

I did a little recreational hauling last month with my 2:1 Cric set up, and it went well! Easy to switch to a 1;1 with the same item also.

Does anyone else have any use and reviews?

I am waiting on my CRIC to be delivered.  I will be using it to replace the bottom pulley, biner and basic in my haul kit.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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