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Best Non-Overhangs in the Red
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Definitely not what the area is known for but the title pretty much speaks for itself. I’m heading to the Red in November and I’m looking for routes that are the exact opposite of the typical steep pumpfest style. Any recs for slabs, vert faces, and weight-on-your-feet climbing would be great! (Ex: climbs similar to Orange Juice, in any grade range) |
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Sport or trad? |
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There are a couple good 11 aretes at funk rock city called prime directive and eye of the needle. Hakuna matata at drive by is a fun vertish pitch. Barb wire is a beautiful12c slab around the corner from Amarillo sunset. robotic thumb 10b? at chocolate factory is a cool vertish pitch. J rats back 12a at chocolate factory But really you should go to the new if that’s your bag. |
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Shootin Hot Hugs Random Precision Two Women Alone Kentucky Flu No Place Like Home Banshee Mirage Knuckle Sauce Go Easy Billy Clyde |
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Karmic Retribution in Inner Sanctum is a fun slab route |
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Download the RRC app, select RRG region, Walls, then hit the filter icon and you can choose wall angle. Select slab, vert or whatever you want. You can filter on grade, type, angle, style, sector, quality. |
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Balance beam and sundial. Nuff said |
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Soul Ram is a must do IMO. Also Dave the Dude at the same crag. Straight Edge is a haul to get to these days but you won't have to wait in line for it. Swahili Slang and its neighbors. Also Super Slab, Blank Canvas, Hakuna Matata. I've heard Evil Emperor is a great vert climb if you want something in the 13- range. EDIT: The Dainty Butterfly at Chocolate Factory - most of the climb is pumpy, slightly overhung crimping but the well defined crux at the top is delicate and balancy, good footwork needed. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106641238/all-things-considered https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112305987/red-shift https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106593331/super-slab https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107860419/tecumsehs-curse a little steeper but still not the madness cave.. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108466010/zen-and-the-art-of-masturbation |
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The NRG |
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Emerald City had some rad slab pitches. Up on the ledge there’s like five right next to each other. Each was a blast. Catch it after it’s been cleaned up by a rain and the onsight is that much more fun. |
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In no particular order:
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Demon Seed 12c is a bit more on the steeper side for face (especially during the shared start with Dogleg), but the upper headwall where the cruxy climbing is is some of the best face climbing I've ever done |
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I really enjoyed “Return to Balance” |
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Tweaked unit @ courtesy wall is an all-time favorite Pretty much all the very at FRC |
Chris Singletarywrote: horrible suggestion for someone seeking non-overhangs due to the start |
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What about bob wall is a pretty good vertish sector |
Dane Bwrote: I don't agree. I think a face with a bit of (easier) overhang still qualifies as a face. The same as how we would consider a steep pumpfest with 20' of easier face at the start of it to still be overhang. Majority of the route is still vert and it's pretty vert for a RRG climb at that grade. On that note, its neighbor "No Redemption" is also super classic, and more of a true face climb, but I haven't been on it yet. |
Chris Singletarywrote: I was surprised no one had mentioned No Redemption yet! Definitely want to get on that one. If anyone has any other ideas in the 12+/13- range that would be great too. |
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Try Pogue Ethics at Phantasia! Awesome 5.9 after a small but easy campus section. Just climbed it yesterday and it was super cool |
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Just seconding the New River gorge, those things you described sound like the bread and butter of most NRG climbs. |
