Thanks for the Inspiration
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I imagine you and I share the great fortune of having been deeply inspired early in our climbing career, by someone whose talent, ethics, boldness, or kindness (or all of the above) showed us what is possible in this lovely pastime of ours. Please share the story of a climber who truly inspires you. For my entry, I offer Kim Miller, a personal climbing hero. When I was celebrating my first month on this planet, in the fall of 1976, at the cajoling of Greg Lowe, Kim embarked upon the second ascent of Infinite (5.11+ X), a heinously unprotected steep slabbing test piece on the Clamshell, an immaculately sculpted piece of stone at the City of Rocks that demands such an impressive combination of technique and boldness that the route accumulates decades as rapidly as it does repeats. With its fierce reputation, the line attracts far more admirers than potential suitors. Since then, Kim has put up first or early ascents of difficult lines across the world, with the City and the Dolomites remaining perennial favorites. But it’s not just the hard ascents that I find impressive. Rather, it’s Kim’s capacity for perfect joy in moving over stone, regardless of the grade. If you see Kim, prepare to see a smile. Over the past fifteen years, I’ve seen Kim at the City numerous times, and though we’ve enjoyed an online dialogue these many years, until last week we’ve never talked in person. He’s hard to track down—he’s always climbing! So I’ve contented myself to silently appreciate each chance to watch a true master at work. A great many of you know Kim, have climbed with him, and have enjoyed his hospitality. I’ve posted this video of Kim climbing Skyline before, but I never tire of it. If you can’t find his sheer joy contagious—ha, of course you will! Kim, thank you for the inspiration. May you have many thousands of feet of climbing ahead of you. I’ll see you in the spring! I'll try to keep up! Friends, who inspired you? |
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When I was first getting into route development I messaged a lot of SF Bay Area developers asking if they wanted a mentee. None were interested. I really wanted to message Jim Thornburg but he's like THE GUY in bay area route development, it felt a bit like asking if Chris Sharma wouldn't mind helping me with my free climbing. Guess who finally was helpful when I worked up the guts to email him? Jim fucking Thornburg. You know who spent hours over email giving me guidance and providing insight and helping me with local climbing drama? Jim fucking Thornburg. And, when I made a huge mistake and had to chop an entire route of glue ins, you know who showed up with a cordless angle grinder? Jim fucking Thornburg. (I later helped him chop one of his routes, which made me feel a bit less embarrassed) Also, I was thinking of getting around to doing some route maintenance at Guadalupe rock, a dinky local's grid bolted crag in South San Jose. The very same rock I had asked numerous route developers if they'd be interested in looking at lines with me, but they all said that's too far to drive for a dinky local's crag. And you know who drove two goddamn hours to replace bolts at fucking Lower Guadalupe Rock? Who beat me to maintaining the rock in my own backyard? Jim. Fucking. Thornburg. That man is the patron saint of bay area climbing. He's an inspiration of a photographer, a climber, a route developer and maintainer, and just as a human. The world doesn't have enough Jim Thornburg appreciation in it. |
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In no particular order, and a certainly incomplete listing: Alex Lowe |
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Apogee, you forgot Aldo Leopold and Colin Fletcher. I never happened to get a mentor. I started climbing as a young lad in about 1972 at Castle Rock near Santa Cruz and all I knew was there was some guy named John Gill who could do a one finger pull-up. That inspired me and later was happy to be able to do one one-armed pull-up. But I never found a true climbing partner. So I drifted off to other pursuits and came back to climbing years later. It’s so important to have a friend who can inspire you and keep the stoke going. I wish I had found that way back when. But it’s okay. I’m having fun now and that’s all that matters. |
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I was a young guy working on top roping a random crag in the forest, in an area where in those days the number of real climbers was close to nil. We didn't expect anyone to come walking up, not even a casual hiker. Who should come walking up? This guy who introduced himself as Arno. He was just back from somewhere out west (Wyoming). He asked if he could climb with us. Lol, in hindsight the man was doing us a huge favor. It was us, who couldn't really climb, with him, not the other way around. Anyway, I met Arno Ilgner that day, total random encounter. I only climbed with him a handful of times but I can't understate the influence it had on me. Nowadays it's hard to even describe the utter vacuum of real live climbing experience and knowledge prevalent across wide swaths of the U.S., outside of the traditional strongholds like Gunks, Eldo, Yosemite. There was no internet, no gyms, no community; just dusty library books and a couple of climbing rags. He exposed me to the thought processes of top tier climbers. He showed me, just by climbing, the jaw-dropping boldness good climbers could bring to the game. He showed me how new-routing could be accomplished. Later of course he went on to publish his Rock Warrior stuff, but the guy I met just wanted to climb in his home state and his hunger for the sport was insatiable. My final thanks is, by example, he showed me how to dream, how to have ambition and how to make things happen simply by getting after it. |
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J W wrote: This is one of the best discussion prompts MP has seen in months, and I promise to return and give it justice. For now, a hearty bump and +1 for Kim Miller (RKM). I hope to age gracefully into a climber as kind as he is. |
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All right, I'll bite -- my climbing inspiration is my friend and unofficial climbing mentor, Phil Wortmann. Talent, boldness, ethics? Hell, yes. He's established 5.13a trad routes (Samsara) at ~ 13,000 ft on Pikes Peak, put up a 10-pitch M8 R/X route (Drop the Mic) in the lower 48 near Ouray, and continues to push the limits of what's possible. Yet he'll tell you that "yeah I gave up all the really hard shit when my son was born". Kindness? Hell, yes. Phil goes out of his way to introduce folks to the alpine and vertical adventures, and does it all in an 'aw-shucks, thanks for getting out with me' way (he is a refugee of the Oklahoma plains) when the gratitude honestly and rightfully goes the other way. If not for Phil, I'd never have taken the steps necessary to become more self-sufficient in the alpine - a dream I've had since I was a kid. He's a shining example of what can happen when folks are genuine, true to themselves, truly care about an area and its history, and legitimately care about the success of others. He's helped me to see that in climbing one needs equal parts of humility and boldness. Even more inspiring than his alpine exploits is how he handles himself personally amidst local climbing controversy, always taking the high road, always looking out for the greater good of the community as a whole. Humble, thoughtful, badass. Kudos, Phil. Beers are always gonna be on me. |
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Inspiration? Not exactly, that implies getting fired up to accomplish something, lol! But, there is a long list of people who have offered kindness to me over the years, and that kindness has helped me keep it together, more than people know. So thanks, guys! You know how much you mean to me! And yes, Kim is on the list. A ridiculously nice man. A couple of posters in this thread have also been pretty darn kind to this bothersome old lady! ;-) |
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I gots to mention an underrated local Squamish star, Nat Bailey. His ascent of Cobra Crack, a feat that i stumbled upon thanks to youtube recommendation, had fascinated me by the climbing and the route itself. Furthermore, while reading an article about Connor Herson (a legend who also recently ticked cobra crack & others) on Outside, I noticed the author was written by Nat. I've never personally met him but started reading more of his writings. His captivating approach to climbing and the profound life lessons we can glean from it. In the way that Nat fully embodies life, it accompanies a great depth which i believe has facilitated his climbing journey and noteworthy connections with people. In an age where there is certainly no shortage of self-promotion, which often takes the spotlight, Nat's actions speaks louder. His soulful insights into climbing and the journeys we too may embark on, are nothing short of sublime, and they hold wisdom that we all can learn from. Continuous curiosity and tenacity are inspiring qualities that make a great rock climber, and Nat possess them in abundance. His future is undoubtably promising and I'm filled with enthusiasm as I anticipate the remarkable accomplishments he will achieve! (also brette harrington is bada$$ and is full-rounded inspiring too hehe) |
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I'm inspired almost every time I get out to climb with my "ordinary" partners. Watching someone dig deep, stay focused, and try hard is always significant to me, regardless of grade or style. I've belaying my mentee on his first 5.10 trad route where he gave it everything and still whipped, and I was motivated to push the grade for myself. I've had a partner out of sight above me , well above a #6 in a overhanging offwidth, in tears but still pushing through. I think of that when my nerves flare up and it reminds me to keep on moving. Other friends, taking the time to decipher intricate sequences on sport climbs, working a route steadily until it flows for them, or dealing with a huge run out and keeping their wits about them... Even watching some random person at the crag have a small victory is a boost for me. |
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I’ve got three: a legend, a pro and a local. 1) Pat Ament. I first read about him in several stories in the Robbie Williams guidebook. His friendship and partnership with Layton Kor always intrigued me — I could just picture fifteen-year-old Ament reaching the belay on the first attempt at the Cruise without any of Kor’s pitons because his hands were too chewed up from catching Kor on a hip belay the day before. 2) Rob Pizem. Piz has a deep, well-rounded resume of bold trad sends and first ascents. But what impresses me most is his time management. He manages to maintain an elite level of performance while also working full-time as a high school science teacher. And he’s a family man with a wife and two kids. I’ve always looked up to him for his discipline and resolve. 3) Carl. My brother doesn’t let an extra chromosome stop him from doing the things he loves, including pulling down at our local gym. Although most people with Down Syndrome are born low muscle tone, Carl goes to the gym weekly and recently topped out our mezzanine wall for the first time without any takes or falls. All week long he talks about climbing … and as soon as he gets back from one gym sesh, he repacks his duffel bag and sets it by the door for the next week! Carl just turned 42 a few days ago. |
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Fritz, your post itself is inspirational, especially your brother. Hope he has many more successful ascents. |
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Good question. My answers would be: Verm -Don't take anything in climbing "culture" seriously and have fun bouldering Malcolm Daly- Was always super cool to me when I was young and green going into Neptune's to ask dumb questions. Also just a good climber. Kelly Cordes- Master of Disaster and just a really solid guy. Steph Davis- Just a total crusher and was one of the sweetest people I've ever talked to. Andy Kirkpatrick- One of the most technically savvy climbers, gifted story teller, and also doesn't take climbing culture seriously. Joe Brown- Inspiration for those of us who weren't gifted in the height dept. Alex MacIntyre- A great Alpinist taken too soon, as most are. Hayden Kennedy- Nothing I can say that hasn't been said 100+ times. Jason Kruk- An artist in climbing. Gary Neptune- Unsung CO legend. Jimmy Dunn- Very low key New England legend. Nick Bullock- Great UK climber Dave MacLeod- Another great UK climber who inspires smart training. My Grandma- Took no shit from anyone, worked hard all her life to have a good life, and was taken too soon. She would have been a good climber. |
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I believe I ran into Kim a couple times in the Wasatch, his name is all over the book and if my old mind remembers correctly his daughter was an excellent dental hygienist and climber! My inspiration came through multiple dirtbags who just wanted to climb. Folks that would pull over on the side of the road and know the quiet spots to sleep under the stars (after pounding down a few beverages) then get up and spread the psyche to go and climb. Basically the dirtbag guides who would always be psyched and willing to push a willing n00b into trying unknown stuff. |
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Fritz, you forgot about Pat Ament's wonderful artwork! H. |
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Joe Kalis wrote: Phil was a teacher at my high school and while I never took a class from him, I often found myself in his classroom just looking at all the pictures he had on his walls. I moved away shortly after graduation but we reconnected several years later and conversed from time to time. This past summer I went home to visit family and Phil enthusiastically reached out asking if I wanted to go climbing. Turns out the stars had aligned that spring and the ice route Total Abandon on Pikes Peak north face would be climbable, on the 4th of July none the less. Phil graciously let me borrow boots, tools, crampons, harness, and a helmet (I was was quite ill prepared seeing as how I wasn't anticipating climbing ice in July) and off we went for some freedom swings. Phil is humble, gracious, an all around crusher, and just genuinely happy to get out with others regardless of their experience or skill level. |
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Dammit, I must have inspired somebody. Speak up! |
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Tradiban wrote: Tradiban, you inspire me to stay in school! (and maybe get a lil stoke boost on lake climbs too) |
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Tradiban wrote: You inspired a whole new generation of trolls who not infrequently turn threads into my personal hell on earth. It's an impressive accomplishment, really. |
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Ricky Harline wrote: I have mused many Ricky. |
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I never accomplished anything, so I'm not sure I count as inspired. But I think the old guard of the SoAZ scene were/are inspiring -- EFR, Jbak, and Jimbo. An unbelievable amount of development; a lot of hard climbing well beyond age 50, 60, 70; and they were the friendliest guys you'd meet out at the crag. They (especially EFR) always seemed to be climbing with the younger generation. P.S.: I never knew the *really* old guard, but these were the guys when I started climibing |