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Video of two cams failing, looks like direction of pull?
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they sound american, does anyone know the party in the video? they look to be ok, the climber at least looks unscathed. https://www.facebook.com/reel/829763971881570?fs=e&s=TIeQ9V&mibextid=0NULKw |
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Look closely, it's actually 3 placements that fail. Here's the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108266465/the-oracle |
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They were both fine: https://www.instagram.com/p/CwX7TuIIs8b/ |
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It's brave to share video like that, and put oneself out there for public criticism. The climber seems to be approaching the experience with critical self analysis and humility. I have every confidence that if he follows this path he will emerge a much better/stronger climber (however you measure that). But it's a hard path. I've been there. Just wanted to recognize the honesty, and send some empathy and respect. |
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huh there are little pops of dust when the second and third pieces blow. Does this mean a little bit of rock crumbled? It could be chalk, but the placements don't look super chalky; it's hard to tell. Is the rock there chossy? are there micro-crystals that could crumble? |
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The first piece or two that popped appeared to be cracks between relatively small broken blocks. Especially that first one. If this rock is as smooth as Austin suggests, a small micro shift of the block under load may be all that’s needed to initiate the full skate out…always accompanied by a small poof of rock powder scraped free by the skating lobes. Not surprised by the first two, but would’ve thought the last one would hold. Agree with Bruno, good on them for posting (and wearing helmets). Always be skeptical and discerning about “blocky cracks” vs real cracks. Horizontal placements can often be a better option in such conditions (if available) and can sometimes be more stable as it take’s significantly less force to micro-shift something sideways vs up. Pink tricam anyone? |
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There's this weird knowledge gap I've seen a bunch of times from people who climb harder routes than me: If you don't trust the piece but are still going to hang, go in direct. Body weight only = 1 body's weight, not 2. |
Lion Forest wrote: He has since sent zombie roof, so turns out if you boulder double digits, 5.12 trad is something that you can in fact just “pick up”. |
John Clarkwrote: If you survive the learning curve, apparently. |
John Clarkwrote: until you fall on shitty gear. |
Lion Forestwrote: It appears jealousy is a nationwide epidemic |
BryanOCwrote: Lol! Boulder Bro gets the trad smack down right in the arse! Seriously hope he’s ok |
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I've climbed the route and can assure that it was user error. The placement at 16-18 feet up is 100% bombproof. The other ones aren't as good but the top out at least should definitely hold. |
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It is impossible to judge from a video how the gear was placed, but when three pieces blow, it is time to take stock of placement skills. The puffs are not chalk but are an artifact of the crack walls crumbling under pressure. If that's a general feature of the crag rather than a local property of those placements, then cams are going to rip a lot, and nuts, if they can be placed, will be a better bet. If the crack walls are noticeably crumbly or consist of layers of thin flakes, that would be a warning sign but otherwise, we are not likely to detect weak rock unless it is a known feature of the cliff. If the rock is overly slick, a jerk test will usually detect that, but weak crack walls might not be detected by a jerk test. From a strategic point of view, I think a consequential lapse was not doubling up on the first piece. |
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Climber in this now famous video is a La Sportiva athlete/ambassador/influencer. |
B Donovanwrote: Mostly influencer. |
Tradibanwrote: Is their YouTube channel "How Not to Place Cams"? |
