Stiles
·
Sep 6, 2023
·
the Mountains
· Joined May 2003
· Points: 845
"The climbers spent six days on the wall between August 19 and 24, dealing with a new 1,200m line that they have called Renaissance. The route finds it way among other previous lines, and was almost entirely free-climbed, except for short sections of aid-climbing. The climbers used no bolts (permanent anchors) along their 30 pitches."
The account in Planet Mountain is slightly confusing. It states that the route starts to the right of the Piola-Ghilini before crossing it and climbing up to the right of the 1976 Czech Pillar - by implication, therefore, to the left of the Piola-Ghilini. Comparison of the topo in the above links with the one herein http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-jasper-schali-eiger-free suggests, though, that the opposite is the case; that it starts to the left of the Piola-Ghilini - and to the right of the Czech Pillar - before crossing the Piola-Ghilini and following a line to the right of that route, finishing either very close to or possibly on it [and clearly even further right of the Czech Pillar]. This obviously assumes that the topos are accurate - and Alpinist certainly makes the mistake of showing the Stollenloch, from which these routes all start, ['K' in the topo, but listed as 'L' in the text lower down] to be about 100 metres to the left of and slightly below its actual location; but the various route lines, thereafter, seem to match other sources.
The 'no bolts' aspect is certainly noteworthy.
Edit: Hah! For reasons I don't understand the latter two links don't seem to work. They do, however, if you just copy and paste them. Sorry about that.