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New Route on Eiger

Original Post
Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

"The climbers spent six days on the wall between August 19 and 24, dealing with a new 1,200m line that they have called Renaissance. The route finds it way among other previous lines, and was almost entirely free-climbed, except for short sections of aid-climbing. The climbers used no bolts (permanent anchors) along their 30 pitches."

Inspiration for the old folks.

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 14

A couple of links here:-

https://explorersweb.com/eiger-north-face-new-route/#:~:text=The%20climbers%20spent%20six%20days%20on%20the%20wall,no%20bolts%20%28permanent%20anchors%29%20along%20their%2030%20pitches.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-climb-eiger-north-face-silvan-schupbach-peter-von-kanel.html

The account in Planet Mountain is slightly confusing. It states that the route starts to the right of the Piola-Ghilini before crossing it and climbing up to the right of the 1976 Czech Pillar - by implication, therefore, to the left of the Piola-Ghilini. Comparison of the topo in the above links with the one herein http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-jasper-schali-eiger-free  suggests, though, that the opposite is the case; that it starts to the left of the Piola-Ghilini - and to the right of the Czech Pillar - before crossing the Piola-Ghilini and following a line to the right of that route, finishing either very close to or possibly on it [and clearly even further right of the Czech Pillar]. This obviously assumes that the topos are accurate - and Alpinist certainly makes the mistake of showing the Stollenloch, from which these routes all start, ['K' in the topo, but listed as 'L' in the text lower down] to be about 100 metres to the left of and slightly below its actual location; but  the various route lines, thereafter, seem to match other sources.

The 'no bolts' aspect is certainly noteworthy.

Edit: Hah! For reasons I don't understand the latter two links don't seem to work. They do, however, if you just copy and paste them. Sorry about that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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