Must do crags by state

Jeremy Lwrote:

American Fork is on the list. We got lost looking for wailing wall. Need to go back...

I consider maple a must do just because it was unique. Admittedly, I haven't been to a lot of crags but I've never seen cobbles that were so densely packed like that before.

Come back and let’s climb together! I love sport climbing and showing people around the local crags. American fork is awesome and if you’re into hard stuff has some awesome test pieces and also a super high density of 12’s and 13’s

Addy Swrote:

Come back and let’s climb together! I love sport climbing and showing people around the local crags. American fork is awesome and if you’re into hard stuff has some awesome test pieces and also a super high density of 12’s and 13’s

Message incoming 

Jaren Watson wrote:

Not anymore, sadly. Huge portion of Massacre is closed to climbing as of last week.

Still about 300 routes, and honestly Owl cove and Main wall were good but no where near as good as All American and Eagle wall. Still a lot of 4 star sport walls. 

As for Maple it's a blast, has short power climbing, long enduro stuff, all very shady., and plenty of engaging cruxes if you want that sorta of thing. But if you're into limestone Causey is the best limestone in Utah. 

SD- Spearfish Canyon an the Black hills region

MN- North Shore(Trad), Red Wing(Sport), Sandstone(Sport)

IA- Pictured Rocks

WI- Devils Lake(Trad), Necedah, Governor Dodge State Park, Willow River State Park, Grandads Bluff in Lacrosse

AL- Horse Pens (Bouldering), Little River Canyon, Sand Rock

IL- Jackson Falls, Holy Boulders(Bouldering)

TX- Reimers, and Greenbelt 

NM- Diablo Canyon, Last chance canyon

Chris Cwrote:

WA- I gotta say Mazama for sport is super cool

Probably should throw in World Wall, too. I'm not a fan of the slippery feet, but it's popular for a reason.

WA- Upper Town Wall. Definitely better for sport than trad

Rumney NH, 82 steep wall vt, farley ma, great head me, lost hunter NY

Alan Rubinwrote:

New England:

Maine—I’d say Shagg Crag—mostly hard, though a few easier routes have recently been put up.  
New Hampshire—easy—Rumney.

Vermont—Probably Bolton —lots of crags and routes to choose from. Lone Rock Point, if you are primarily interested in very difficult routes.

Massachusetts—Farley Ledge.

Rhode Island—don’t know if there are sport climbing crags—not really that many crags, but very good bouldering at Lincoln Woods if that is a ‘consolation prize’ option.

Connecticut—Another state with very limited sport climbing options—though much more rock than R.I., and hard to say which is the ‘best’ of the limited options—and at almost all of them, pretty much only hard routes are bolted ( though there may well be some ‘under the radar’ locales, kept that way to preserve the bolts from vandalism). Of those I am familiar with, Chatfield Hollow, Firewall, and Pine Ledge are all ‘contenders’. Hanging Mountain, just over the border in MA has a better spread of grades—but doesn’t let you ‘check off’ CT on your ‘quest’.

Not New England, but I’ll be interested in what folks recommend for NY—a state with a considerable amount of rock and climbing; but overwhelmingly traditional. Probably Thatcher State Park, but I’m not a fan due to very questionable rock quality.

The adirondacks host several crags with vastly superior crags to thacher park. But if you crux out on 5.11, thacher is where to be. True gems of the state are in the 5.12-5.13 range if you limit yourself to clipping bolts, but NY is traditional for the real classics. 

Nick Budkawrote:

The adirondacks host several crags with vastly superior crags to thacher park. But if you crux out on 5.11, thacher is where to be. True gems of the state are in the 5.12-5.13 range if you limit yourself to clipping bolts, but NY is traditional for the real classics. 

I worked in the Dacks in 1998, and I visited several small but excellent “secret” sport crags. Unfortunately, it is my understanding that even though these were on private land and bolted with landowner permission, the local anti-bolt crusaders chopped many of these. 

Nick Budkawrote:

The adirondacks host several crags with vastly superior crags to thacher park. But if you crux out on 5.11, thacher is where to be. True gems of the state are in the 5.12-5.13 range if you limit yourself to clipping bolts, but NY is traditional for the real classics. 

Thatcher added to the list. Will obviously go to gunks to get on easy stuff.

Don’t get you hopes up in terms of climbing quality at Thatcher—though it is a pretty place. However, it is an ‘island’ of sport climbing in an otherwise largely ‘traditional’ state. 

Frank Steinwrote:

I suppose that climbing at the Creek IS sport climbing…

Looking for all of your hard Creek send tics...weird I don't see any...?   

Addy Swrote:

Ok obviously just my two cents from what I’ve heard but I’m going to be the token mountain project person who sprays about a place they’ve never been to. Most of my friends say maple is pretty overrated. The cobbles are cool but a lot of the routes lack amazing movement and are just big pump fests. Cobble in the sky is just can you climb V2 for a 100 feet. Also lots of scary rockfall apparently. If you go, WEAR A HELMET. That being said the cobbles are certainly unique!

Please don't weigh in on Maple if you haven't climbed there LOOOOOL. Just no. Maple is amazing and a really fun scene to climb with friends of all skill levels. Easy access (easy approaches), safe bolting, and infinite routes. 

grug gwrote:

Please don't weigh in on Maple if you haven't climbed there LOOOOOL. Just no. Maple is amazing and a really fun scene to climb with friends of all skill levels. Easy access (easy approaches), safe bolting, and infinite routes. 

Maple sucks. It all looks the same.
Go ahead, creep on my tick-list, and tell me I'm weak.

grug gwrote:

Looking for all of your hard Creek send tics...weird I don't see any...?   

Well, I don’t really climb…just hang out on MP, so no ticks at all for me. 

grug gwrote:

Please don't weigh in on Maple if you haven't climbed there LOOOOOL. Just no. Maple is amazing and a really fun scene to climb with friends of all skill levels. Easy access (easy approaches), safe bolting, and infinite routes. 

I'm not saying it's bad, just saying that I've lived in Utah the majority of my life and everyone I know says that while unique and accessible it's far from the best sport crag in Utah. I'm hopefully going to go sometime in September which would be sick. I'll let you know my opinion that's actually founded on experience then, this is just what I think and what I've heard up to now.

Igor Chainedwrote:

Maple sucks. It all looks the same.
Go ahead, creep on my tick-list, and tell me I'm weak.

You certainly have the tick list of someone who would hate Maple. 

Addy Swrote:

I'm not saying it's bad, just saying that I've lived in Utah the majority of my life and everyone I know says that while unique and accessible it's far from the best sport crag in Utah. I'm hopefully going to go sometime in September which would be sick. I'll let you know my opinion that's actually founded on experience then, this is just what I think and what I've heard up to now.

Definitely not "far from the best", just not the best sport crag.  AF and Maple are the two most popular sport spots in UT but both are just good blocky choss in a picturesque spot close to civilization. Some people don't like blocky choss, and that's okay.  It does appear to be quite popular so if you like sport climbing on steep terrain it would be a shame to miss such a wonderland. If your ideal climbing is Igor's, low angle trad, you're gonna hate it. 

If you're looking for perfect stone and flawless movement UT has it but it's in the South or unpublished and you have to climb pretty damn hard. 

Jordan Wilsonwrote:

Definitely not "far from the best", just not the best sport crag.  AF and Maple are the two most popular sport spots in UT but both are just good blocky choss in a picturesque spot close to civilization. Some people don't like blocky choss, and that's okay.  It does appear to be quite popular so if you like sport climbing on steep terrain it would be a shame to miss such a wonderland. If your ideal climbing is Igor's, low angle trad, you're gonna hate it. 

If you're looking for perfect stone and flawless movement UT has it but it's in the South or unpublished and you have to climb pretty damn hard. 

Haha, that’s true from where I’ve been. I will say though billboard in AF has flawless movement. Damn hard stuff though. 

Addy Swrote:

Ok obviously just my two cents from what I’ve heard but I’m going to be the token mountain project person who sprays about a place they’ve never been to. 

Ahh yes, our favorite kinda of person….

Most of my friends say maple is pretty overrated. The cobbles are cool but a lot of the routes lack amazing movement and are just big pump fests. Cobble in the sky is just can you climb V2 for a 100 feet. 

Based on their assessment the RRG also sounds miserable. Just big pumpfests……