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Gatekeeping in the community

Original Post
John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Is the lack of permadraws on sport cliffs and traditionalist’s refusal to bolt cracks a form of gatekeeping in climbing? Are less financially able people being intentionally kept from climbing by the high cost of gear required by first ascentionists who refuse to properly and permanently protect “their” climbs?

Jack V · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

No

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
Jack V wrote:

No

How can you possibly justify this? If FAs really do have dominion over “their” routes, then they also have the responsibility to make them accessible to anyone who wants to climb them regardless of financial means, especially routes on public land.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

So weak zzzzZzzz

Fair enough. Can’t blame a bored unemployed person for trying though.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
John Clark wrote:

How can you possibly justify this? If FAs really do have dominion over “their” routes, then they also have the responsibility to make them accessible to anyone who wants to climb them regardless of financial means.

What bullshit. How goddamn entitled can one be as to think that another person is responsible to make protectable features ’safe’ (safety lies with the climber, not the gear, just check out how many accidents occur on ‘safe’ sport climbs) for ‘poor’ people. A lot of ‘poor’ climbers put them up in the first place. You have really embarrassed yourself.

Noah Galvin · · Denver · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
John Clark wrote:

Is the lack of permadraws on sport cliffs and traditionalist’s refusal to bolt cracks a form of gatekeeping in climbing? Are less financially able people being intentionally kept from climbing by the high cost of gear required by first ascentionists who refuse to properly and permanently protect “their” climbs?

Why are you focusing on those who choose to bolt certain climbs and choose not to bolt other climbs? Why is this post not focused towards gear manufacturers that continually raise the price of new gear? Additionally, these manufacturers have the funds to maintain liability and safety standards. To assume that first ascensionists and those maintaining crags, such as climbing coalitions who are typically non-profit organizations, have the same ability, physical and, mainly, financial, to not only create but maintain the safety of every route and every crag to allow for complete access like a gym, is naïve of you.  

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17

Quit making me miss Trevor with posts like this. But also, I’ll play along….per the 8a threads; climbing as a whole is gatekeeping against those who are weak and unmotivated. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
John Clark wrote:

Is the lack of permadraws on sport cliffs and traditionalist’s refusal to bolt cracks a form of gatekeeping in climbing? Are less financially able people being intentionally kept from climbing by the high cost of gear required by first ascentionists who refuse to properly and permanently protect “their” climbs?

No because it takes more than draws to climb. Who should supply the ropes, harness, shoes, helmet? Who should supply the packs, water bottles, etc. Who should supply the ride? There are many organization that help facilitate people getting out. Just as there many organizations that help facilitate people doing many other activities.

Jack V · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10
John Clark wrote:

How can you possibly justify this? If FAs really do have dominion over “their” routes, then they also have the responsibility to make them accessible to anyone who wants to climb them regardless of financial means.

No

Jordan Wilson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 65

Pull yourself up by your bootstraps and buy a cam

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 315

Traditionalists "refusal" to bolt cracks, lol. Why in the F would you bolt a perfectly good crack line? Learning trad climbing technique involves learning how to place protection effectively, they go hand in hand. If trad gear is too expensive, go bouldering. 

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

Traditionalists "refusal" to bolt cracks, lol. Why in the F would you bolt a perfectly good crack line?

Cause it’s limestone   

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,155

Peach would like to speak to John Clark's manager. This is the place to lodge complaints of this sort, correct?

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
John Clark wrote:

Is the lack of permadraws on sport cliffs and traditionalist’s refusal to bolt cracks a form of gatekeeping in climbing? Are less financially able people being intentionally kept from climbing by the high cost of gear required by first ascentionists who refuse to properly and permanently protect “their” climbs?

Yes. So?

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187


Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Holy cr@p.  Based on replies alone he gets at least a 3/10 

All for practically zero effort.  

Jack V · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10
John Clark wrote:

Edit 2: Have I been out of the game long enough that people forgot who I am and think I’m serious?

No

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

very funny

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
F r i t z wrote:

Peach would like to speak to John Clark's manager. This is the place to lodge complaints of this sort, correct?

My manager says I need to stop trolling. Cheers.

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

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WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
John Clark wrote:

Is the lack of permadraws on sport cliffs and traditionalist’s refusal to bolt cracks a form of gatekeeping in climbing? Are less financially able people being intentionally kept from climbing by the high cost of gear required by first ascentionists who refuse to properly and permanently protect “their” climbs?

I'll take a MAGA rally over this any day. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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