New and experienced climbers over 50 # 25

Funny thing is I checked out the forum this morning and saw rgold’s somber but excellent post.  Then, just now, came back to comment on how good it was and saw this thing about aliens and human blood. Hilarious. I was actually using rgold’s story of the stroke guy to convince my wife to let me buy a bottle of Polish vodka, using the ‘live, drink and be merry for tomorrow you die’ (AKA act like a silly old fool) but she replied, ‘What? You want to help it along a little bit?’  So no vodka.

I’ve been leading up to 20 in the gym and up to 22 on TR three times a week plus some indoor bouldering. Got sore hands and sore knees but I’m feeling sehr stark! 

I’ve been riding my motorcycle too fast.
Can’t wait till spring.

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Funny thing is I checked out the forum this morning and saw rgold’s somber but excellent post.  Then, just now, came back to comment on how good it was and saw this thing about aliens and human blood. Hilarious. I was actually using rgold’s story of the stroke guy to convince my wife to let me buy a bottle of Polish vodka, using the ‘live, drink and be merry for tomorrow you die’ (AKA act like a silly old fool) but she replied, ‘What? You want to help it along a little bit?’  So no vodka.

I’ve been leading up to 20 in the gym and up to 22 on TR three times a week plus some indoor bouldering. Got sore hands and sore knees but I’m feeling sehr stark! 

I’ve been riding my motorcycle too fast.
Can’t wait till spring.

Real potato vodka mixed with enough cranberry juice, a bit of pineapple juice and a few slices of lime on a lot of ice is healthful and beneficial for a long and happy life. 

phylp phylpwrote:

There’s no reason to expect English speakers to intuitively understand the pronunciation or pluralization of foreign words that make their way into our common usage. I know I misuse foreign words all the time. Not infrequently, when traveling and trying to muddle my way in French or Italian, I’ll get confused and put the em-PHAS-is on the wrong syl-LA-ble.  Until a couple of years ago, I was pronouncing Oaxacan “oh- ox-a-can”. My friend smiled at me and taught me “wha-ha-can”.  It’s a constant learning process and fun.

But the next time Tony makes ravioli, leave one on the plate and tell him, “I’m stuffed, do you want the last raviolo?”.

And we certainly don't want to start the octopi, octopuses. octopodes debate !

Tim Schafstallwrote:

And we certainly don't want to start the octopi, octopuses. octopodes debate !

That debate would be more sensible than many here on MP!!!!

I’ve been out hiking around again this morning and I just can’t grasp the magnitude of this place. Lately I’ve been coming back to the same area —which is huge—to see what else opens up that I didn’t see yesterday. I swear that rocks appear every day that were not here the day before. I’m learning to walk slowly amongst boulders, and to rattle along the way, I can keep my eyes super open because I have decided to embrace my rattlesnake friends and my scorpion friends, and trust that no one means intentional harm.  

I also am wondering why this place is not a reservation? Now I will have to do some research. This was native land and there are petroglyphs everywhere, so why are we free to traipse through without permission? The possibilities for study here are endless, including a geology class if I would take the time and desert herbs, and native plants. Someone said there is a topical native formula for snakebite, and that person was credible as they were also an elite Marine. Anyway, the longer I have been here instead of less questions there’s more.

So I have obviously looked at this rock with the stargazer route on it 100 times and I asked Bob about it and he wondered whether maybe it could be approached through the cracks along the side. Hello! It’s a testament to how new I am that I only looked at that face and thought no one is going to want to shimmy up that face to set up a top anchor. I just never looked at it this way.  Suddenly I think even I could maybe scramble up to the top.

Likewise, I drop by that Watergate rock to view the main face and always ignore that boulder in front. It’s just an annoyance to get under around to get to the main wall but today I was looking at it and it’s suddenly came to life. It’s a 50 or 60 foot rock, and if I had the strength to layback it all the way it would be a lot of fun. It doesn’t come through quite so much in the picture but there is a large juggy ridge going up right center, and then of course there’s the arete.  Never saw this before .    And there’s thousands of places like this.

Was rummaging in the garage this morning, and ran across this little item. 

A number of years ago, I led a route on the East Face of Trifling Rock (Wonderland of Rocks, just past Uncle Willie's Health Food Store). The route sported three or four old 1/4 inch bolts, and an assortment of old SMC and Leeper hangers. 

The last bolt, located above a healthy runnout below, protected the crux -- and would keep you from decking. It looked well placed and flush with solid rock.

I clipped it and led to the top. The last person, while cleaning the draws, gave a test "yank" on each of the ancient looking bolts.

As he pulls over the top, he showed us the last draw he cleaned, with the Leeper hanger attached. It had broken at the bolt hole, under the small force of a tug on the draw.

Kudos to the dedicated climbers who have been replacing old fixed hardware, at Josh and throughout the U.S. Many aging fixed anchors are time bombs. I urge every climber to support anchor replacement efforts.

C Miller wrote:

Political Asylum

T-N-T

Take your guidebook or use the MP app!

_________________________________________________

You should chat with Brandt Allen about all the great climbing you've been missing out on in the Big Bear area. 

It's really not that far away and much cooler right now with lots of rocks for you to wander around and ogle without the risk of heatstroke!!

Thank you, again, C Miller.  This is a bit frustrating.  I had MP on my cell phone and paged through a dozen possibilities.  I wonder if coordinates would help me identify while I'm roaming.  It's definitely T-N-T that I was admiring.  I really appreciate it.

Meanwhile... I will be in Sacramento and the Sierra over the next few weeks, and enjoying water and trees.  I plan to spend time soaking in water until I am prune-like.  My kids can visit me in the lake. :-)  But, I keep trying to say that I love the summer here in Josh.  It is perhaps my favorite season here.  It was 74 degrees while I hiked this morning, cool desert breeze... endless wide open space.  I love this place in summer and heat has never bothered me.  I'll get my fill of mountains soon enough and would love to see Big Bear again also.  

-------

While hiking my cellphone called up a band I had long forgotten... Blue Cheer.  I played the whole first album.  Wasn't that the name of some rather potent LSD?  I wonder if there is a Wikipedia account of the various acids the came down the pike bitd.  Red, white and blue 'peace pill' comes to mind.  Orange Wedge (ouch). Owsley.  Purple Haze.  

Which brings me to Russ.  In his quest to balance his chakras and suntan his taint... I keep getting ads for balancing the Pineal Gland.  https://www.healthline.com/health/mind-body/how-to-open-your-third-eye..  I think mine is pretty much balanced these days, but I'm not so sure about Russ'.  

There is also this helpful product that I actually bought last year, but have not used yet... Rosita Ratfish Liver Oil.  It is specifically for opening up that 3rd eye. 

Here is a review.

"I love this stuff! The best way to take it is just squirt it directly into your mouth and take some water. Don't mess around trying to hide the flavor, just makes it worse. I find the taste rather pleasant. I instantly noticed better sleep, less pain, and overall mental and spiritual clarity. After two weeks I decided to start meditating more, eat vegan, and focus on spiritual awakening. I have been working on this stuff my whole life but this propelled me to the next level."

• Real foodies searching for a rare and unique nutrient profile. 
• Those looking for a completely natural supplement that’s high in alkylglycerols.*
• Families with children on the spectrum (especially those with taste sensitivity to fish).*
• Spiritual people who want mental clarity and to decalcify the pineal gland (third eye), which supports meditation, relaxation and rest.*
• Anyone striving to improve and support their overall health, including the brain, and immune and circulatory systems.

I'm just trying to be helpful.  

Been here in Mammoth for a week, it’s laundry time so I have a few moments to tell a funny story about a Saturday. My partner over the weekend had a hideous week at work so I told her don’t stress about it, show up when you can. So she arrived around 10 AM and we’re depating where to go. Frumy and I had already found out that much of Horseshoe Piles is still hardpack snow at the base.
We decide to check out conditions at Warming Wall. Place where you typically park is all fenced off so we have to drive around a couple miles to get to the far side of the lot. Hike up to the wall and decide it’s too hot to climb there with that reflector oven of black rock. So we decide to hike up to Sunshine Wall, hoping the sun will be leaving that wall soon. We get up there and it’s clesr it will still be in the sun for an hour or so and and the whole cliff has snow to 20 feet from base. It’s melted back enough right against the cliff that we can cross the snow to the one foot wide melted out area, and belay with our butts on the snow. But we’ve both done all the routes there enough that we don’t find it compelling enough to do that.
so what next. I suggest Triple Cracks because at least I’ll get a good workout there. I have my circuit from easy to harder. So we go there and the three routes I usually start on, which are clustered close together, the rightmost 5.9 crack has two giant ravens fly out from it. They are tending a nest. So those routes are out. We set up the next easiest routes, a 5.9 and a 10a and do those. The next one up on the circuit is a damn hard 10c but my partner is not feeling inspired by the looks of it. Rock Creek is at this point an option, but I’m still feeling exhausted from a recent bout of Covid, so I agree to call it a day.
That’s a day I call “taking the gear for a walk”. LOL

It may sound like a bad day but it was a great day of talking and catching up after a year apart and the weather was beautiful. So no complaints. But probably the least number of feet of climbing I’ve ever done on a climbing day.

There’s a comp coming up at Adelaide’s one and only little tiny roped climbing gym Vertical Reality (or VR).  Currently they have about five youth categories (separated by birth year) and a para/disabled category in lead and top roping but NO ‘older’ category.

I’m trying to gauge interest amongst older climbers to lobby for adding an older category. Of course this sparks debates on what ‘old’ is which is why I used the term ‘older’ and not ‘old’. 

Technically, I also should have said ‘climbers who are older’ rather than ‘older climbers’ as these days you have to place the person first (person who is disabled, not disabled person).

I’m curious, would you peeps, esp those over 60, compete in an open category, that is, everyone over about 20 or do you think older (‘masters’) categories are warranted?

Carl Schneiderwrote:

There’s a comp coming up at Adelaide’s one and only little tiny roped climbing gym Vertical Reality (or VR).  Currently they have about five youth categories (separated by birth year) and a para/disabled category in lead and top roping but NO ‘older’ category.

I’m trying to gauge interest amongst older climbers to lobby for adding an older category. Of course this sparks debates on what ‘old’ is which is why I used the term ‘older’ and not ‘old’. 

Technically, I also should have said ‘climbers who are older’ rather than ‘older climbers’ as these days you have to place the person first (person who is disabled, not disabled person).

I’m curious, would you peeps, esp those over 60, compete in an open category, that is, everyone over about 20 or do you think older (‘masters’) categories are warranted?

I have not competed in a climbing comp in many many years. But, I do occasionally race Cross Country MTB -- which races have multiple age (and racing level) categories. "Masters" can mean whatever the organizers decide, but should be old enough to account for the effects of time (age) on performance, yet capture a large enough group to make it worthwhile. Maybe 50+?

Depends on the sport.

I've no problem with categories if you feel the need to compete. Particularly in physical activities. I enjoy competing against myself much more than other people although I participate in several activities that can be competitive for a lot of people involved.

Randywrote:

I have not competed in a climbing comp in many many years. But, I do occasionally race Cross Country MTB -- which races have multiple age (and racing level) categories. "Masters" can mean whatever the organizers decide, but should be old enough to account for the effects of time (age) on performance, yet capture a large enough group to make it worthwhile. Maybe 50+?

Yeah. I’m thinking an over 50 group would be good. At that age you really start to get separated from the younger climbers I think, even if you’ve been climbing for years. Less that 50 and you  may still sort of hold your own against younger but less experienced climbers. 

I competed in the ABS bouldering series for a couple of years about 15 years ago.

It was a really fun time and I only stopped when I got more interested in climbing outside and also the comps were getting crowded and a little dangerous, with all the people.

At that time, the cutoff for masters was 40 yo.

Usually there'd be maybe half a dozen of us competing, sometimes more, sometimes fewer.

Two of the regulars were fathers of famous pro athletes. 

We'd have a good time sharing beta -not always exactly accurate :-) -but still trying to best each other.

I knew Christian Griffith was about to age in, and figured that would be the end of anybody else winning the comps, but luckily for the rest of us, he never filled out his card. 

That is, he never did all 4 of the required routes. Just stopped after one or two for some reason. He shows up to the Spot occasionally, I should ask him why.

For those who don't know, Christian was and is a really good climber, did a lot of stuff in Eldo and was one of the first Americans to climb extensively on European sport routes.

Anyway, if you can get them to set the Masters at 60+ I think that would be most fair, but unless your area has more older climbers than Boulder CO, there might not be too many participants.

If they won't do a Masters category, you should give it a go anyway.

I competed in a couple of Open Nationals, and my goal was not to come in dead last. 

Those 37th and 49th place finishes are amongst my proudest accomplishments ;-)

I think that's goal we can all strive for- not coming in last

Which brings me to Russ.  In his quest to balance his chakras and suntan his taint... I keep getting ads for balancing the Pineal Gland.   healthline.com/health/mind-…..  I think mine is pretty much balanced these days, but I'm not so sure about Russ'.   

Haha Fuk!   

I think he has always been and will continue to live life a bit askew.   

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Yeah. I’m thinking an over 50 group would be good. At that age you really start to get separated from the younger climbers I think, even if you’ve been climbing for years. Less that 50 and you  may still sort of hold your own against younger but less experienced climbers. 

BITD I ran in a lot of 5K and 10K road races.  When I was in the 30 & 40 level I did pretty well.  Then I turned 50, less participants but SUPER competitive.  Had to train harder to stay in the top 10.  This was when I lived in New Jersey where road racing, at least at that time, was extremely popular.

Mark E Dixonwrote:

Anyway, if you can get them to set the Masters at 60+ I think that would be most fair, but unless your area has more older climbers than Boulder CO, there might not be too many participants.

Back in 2010-2012, the BRC had some very informal lead/tr comps with age categories. Some of the men in the over-60s category were outstanding. As for women over 60, it was me and one or two others. Lucky for me, Beth Bennett never competed. Some of the younger competitors, like Brooke Raboutou, went on to become real champions.

Albuquerque, a metro of about one million,  has an over-50 comp. I didn’t participate (had outdoor fish to fry), but it seems pretty popular. Climbers from Colorado and Arizona traveled for it.
I raced bikes through my early 40s when Open Masters was generally 35+. I did okay in NM, generally scoring points and getting an ocasional  podium…until I’d go to Boulder during cyclocross season. The field would include multiple former pros and national champions.  The goal then was to just not get lapped and pulled. 

Tad!!!    

Welcome!!

Personally I think climbing should not be a competitive sport.

Ruined it for good.

But that’s just me

I've played a lot of what they call "senior" tournament softball.  It starts at 40 and goes to maybe 80's in 5 year increments.  There is a huge difference physically in the 50's and 60 year old divisions.  I can see with my own climbing and those at the crags that there would be a huge difference in a 51 years old and 60 year old in what they can do.  The back side of the slope is steep and the smart money should be on the younger competitor.  That is why wide groupings like Over 40 Masters just don't work.