Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2

Because I was the nail in the coffin for the last thread, we start anew.
Obligatory anchor shot to start.

That is some really odd rock. How do you go about finding rock that is solid enough for bolts or avoid hitting a cavity?

what about reasonable hardware with a beautiful view?

Thomas Worsham wrote:

That is some really odd rock. How do you go about finding rock that is solid enough for bolts or avoid hitting a cavity?

I think you might be taking the "wall lettuce" attachment/foot as small holes. It's some good solid granite. That pic was shot after first scrubbing.

All 316 down to the nuts and washers.  The northeast is just getting danker and wetter.  My wife and I have pledged for nothing but the best for the last couple years and feel that this is the only way forward.

JChepes wrote:

All 316 down to the nuts and washers.  The northeast is just getting danker and wetter.  My wife and I have pledged for nothing but the best for the last couple years and feel that this is the only way forward.

Beautiful setup, those captive biners make me tingly. Only question is how far apart they are? Maybe it's just the angle of the picture but it looks like they'd meet at >90*. 

I F wrote:

Beautiful setup, those captive biners make me tingly. Only question is how far apart they are? Maybe it's just the angle of the picture but it looks like they'd meet at >90*. 

I agree and the left bolt is pretty close to an edge.  Might just be camera angle

Are there any stainless carabiners with captive pins instead of eyes? I’ve been loving captive pin carabiners because you can throw them into some chain, saving you two quicklinks, but as far as I’m aware they’re all plated

Jim Day wrote:

I agree and the left bolt is pretty close to an edge.  Might just be camera angle

It'll blow out first leaving the other to take the full load andd remove the 90° issue, where's the problem?

I F wrote:

Beautiful setup, those captive biners make me tingly. Only question is how far apart they are? Maybe it's just the angle of the picture but it looks like they'd meet at >90*. 

Thanks for the feedback and definitely the camera angle! Both bolts are 8” apart and biners orient at a nice angle.  Some people complain about the clipping action of these but personally I would like harder to clip than too easy!

Tal M wrote:

Are there any stainless carabiners with captive pins instead of eyes? I’ve been loving captive pin carabiners because you can throw them into some chain, saving you two quicklinks, but as far as I’m aware they’re all plated

That was discussed Here

I bought some of the cyphers from Mountain outlet and was pretty satisfied:

Unfortunately mountain outlet is now sold out but you can get the carabiner Here

Upgrades and repairs courtesy of the BHCC

From these, to:

A simple but nice setup. 

Hopefully,  I can get back to patch the holes from the previous bolt upgrade.  

A classic sport climbing setup for the ending of a steep, pumpy route.  

Just felt like bragging a little bit.  Anchors are 10x200mm SLB's with pure110+ epoxy. Big thanks to Dave of BP and Karl of SB. 

ERRAND WOLFE wrote:

Just felt like bragging a little bit.  Anchors are 10x200mm SLB's with pure110+ epoxy. Big thanks to Dave of BP and Karl of SB. 

To get the full benefit of 200mm bolts, you should place them 3 feet apart 

Jim Day wrote:

To get the full benefit of 200mm bolts, you should place them 3 feet apart 

Where does that instruction come from? Ive both heard you should place bolts 10x the bolt diameter apart as well as 2x the bolt depth - but I was also told that only applies to mechanical bolts anyways. Where does the 3 foot suggestion come from?

also dear god how bad is this rock that it needs a 200mm embedment depth that’s nuts

Tal M wrote:

Where does that instruction come from? Ive both heard you should place bolts 10x the bolt diameter apart as well as 2x the bolt depth - but I was also told that only applies to mechanical bolts anyways. Where does the 3 foot suggestion come from?

also dear god how bad is this rock that it needs a 200mm embedment depth that’s nuts

I was joking! :)

Replaced the anchor on one of my own routes from 1994 on the Meadow river WV.  The 1/2" 5 piece bolts were in amazing shape. Prolly due to the sheltered location and amazingly quartzite like stone. The missing cold shut was a 3/8 and was really rusty. original spacing was stupid far apart. What did I know in 94? I actually started placing stainless in 90 but back slid on this route. My buddy Diab had a shit load of the carbon steel bolts. The Raumer super shut like thing is rated to 35KN. The wire gate to 45KN. Seems  OK?

Horizontal bolts converted to vertical-style so the wear rests on a single point, that being a beefy SS304 1.5 ton WLL double-wiregate eye hook.
Glue-ins, quicklinks, & chain all SS316. 3/8" Spring hook carabiner & anchor hook (the consumables) are SS304. Cost to equip this anchor (excluding Twist Bolts and epoxy) was the equivalent of $13 USD for me.