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New and experienced climbers over 50 # 25
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It would sure be nice to have a check in. What's everyone doing out there? I hope Wendy is feeling better and recovering fast, and that Carl is enduring his winter. Is anyone actually climbing? Helen, the crops? Jan, the tomatoes? Mine are done... I rate it an overall success. Last we saw, Phylp had been to the climbing gym. Nick is doing something cold. Bob, that is a very handsome fish. I like this one! He has a lovely countenance, given the circumstances.  Jan, I wanted to thank you for the suggestions regarding a trip to Tuolomne, although I will mention that a 6 hour trip for you would likely be a 9 hour one for me, given that you apparently drive at Mach speed. I will be spending a few weeks in the Sierra in August, and that's probably all I can manage this year. I can get a jump start on next year. Thank you so much! I was out hiking again this morning and decided it would be a good idea to brush up on my Garmin InReach. The last time I actually used it was in 2020. There is nothing intuitive about this device... except maybe that comforting SOS button. The InReach syncs to Earthmate on my cellphone, which sync to an App on my computer... it doesn't happen easily. But I keep hiking back to the buttress area, and I know there are plenty of rattlesnakes in those hills... I cannot guarantee that I will miss every one. So, with so much to explore, I know best decision is to stay out of the rocks until all the snakes and critters go comatose again in Fall.  So, Watergate Rock gets my full attention... the granite on this rock is gorgeous. It reminds me much of Belle ... and maybe one day I'll be a strong enough climber to climb some of these right-most routes. They're reatively short, but those tiny edges and crimps!!! Bummer to have so much catclaw shrub that it's just not worth getting cut up to get next to that rock. (Dirty Tricks 11d Kevin Powell, Mike Waugh & Jan McCollum,1981)  It's really nice to love climbing so much that good rock makes you salivate. I can only imagine the places you all go... While hiking one day a gentleman stood at the bottom of the crag where I was scrambling, waving. I never see anyone out there. When I came down, he was waiting at my car... half hour away. He just wanted to say hello, and we've been good friends ever since. Doyle Moyer, a local artist. This is his latest work in progress, based upon my rattlesnake fears. He was a Yosemite climber, and now lives close to Josh... unable to climb anymore, but out there hiking and doing his pen and ink sketches. Really wonderful guy.  Tony headed back down the hill for a CAT scan on that aneurysm this morning and it's the first time I've ever seen him defeated. He's done everything humanly possible to remain on this earth with me, but he said he has a feeling of foreboding. I think it's just too many things to try to handle all at once. But he's strong. |
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Wow! That's a nice drawing! Pen and ink is my favorite, I tend to smear everything else. I'm horribly out of practice, though. It's hot here, but backed off from the triple digits, and it's July, so hot is what ya get. I've undoubtedly got whopping huge zukes out there, can't turn your back on them for long. And, tomatoes are cranking it out now! Peppers and eggplant are fails, winter squash look happy. There's probably gonna be a green bean explosion soon, and cukes will jump in too. No idea on spuds, of course, that's last thing before frost, and half the fun is seeing what you get! I've been managing to get things done mornings.....then that's about it, for the day. I might be turning into a cat. She gets the zoomies about twice a week....then sleeps 20, 23ish hours a day. Oh, and smoke season has arrived. Not sure just who's smoke, maybe southern Oregon? but it's blue sky straight up....and brown otherwise. Next trip is early August, to COR for the Idaho Mountain Fest, but I'm doing food service, and might be a no climbing at all trip! Then, there's an exciting trip to eastern Idaho late August, a camping trip with Audubon. Lots of wildlife viewing with people who know their stuff! I tacked on a couple days extra, to visit Yellowstone. Haven't been there in decades, so that'll be fun! Camping trip in late September, maybe a COR trip in there somewhere, then a trip late October to MI. Pondering if I wanna tack on a flight elsewhere, on the return trip to Boise. Hmmmm......early November..... Best, Helen |
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Lori There was mentioned about you going to Tuolumne Meadows. Jean and I have been there a couple of times. We have always had a great time. It is a lot less crowded than Yosemite. 10 years ago, Jean and I were still young, 60. We took our good friend ED, 66, up the Northwest Buttress on the Tenaya Peak area. MP has it as 14 pitches, 1400 feet 5.5. Jean and I took marginal gear with our Petzl Bug backpack. Ed took his 50 or 60 l backpack. I did the entire climb in my approach shoes. We soloed about half the route. When Ed started to have some trouble (mostly due to his over pack backpack), we got out our rope and gear. The only time that we (really me), was scared on the 5.0 path near the top. The drop off on our left was a couple of hundred feet. As you know, I am afraid of heights. The best part is that it is a walk off. The views are spectacular. You could do half the route and then walk down the way you came up If you did not want to finish the climb. It is a giant slab except for near the very top. Jean and Ed starting up  Tenaya Lake in background  Resting on top  Hiking down  We did climb last week. Jean climbing a sandbag 5.8+. No one else could do this. I done 5.10s that are easier than this climb.  John |
Oldtradguywrote: John, WTF! Why in the world would he do that?!? I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I didn't do that route until I'd already been climbing for about 20 years. It was in that category of "too easy" to be on the tick list for precious weekends in the Meadows. Then one summer I got a bad pulley tendon injury in June, and didn't want to lose the rest of the season, so I spent the next 3 months buddy taped and ticking off a slew of 5.6s and 5.7s. That was a blast and there was a lot of joy doing those routes. That route is wonderful. It is one of those, like Cathedral Peak, that the approach and descent take much longer than the climbing. But the views from the top, for both those routes, are glorious! |
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John, You are a treasure, and a friend. Your words are music to my ears, and those pictures tell a story I want to hear. My challenge has always been my 'one-pitch' rule. Diabetes low blood sugars can come so quickly, and cause so much confusion and panic (ie adrenaline surge) that I have never felt safe perched up high with no fast way down. I would not want to have to fight through an emergency low blood sugar AND prepare a rap. I have often thought that if I were skilled enough at setting up anchors, rappelling, lowering down... I could maybe take the chance. Like, if I had done this over the years until it was second nature. But I haven't. A walk off is another story. It's so much safer, in terms of danger with a low blood sugar. So, one of my reservations about Yosemite has been how bad I might feel when I have to limit my climbing ... no El Cap for me! Obviously Josh has been the perfect solution—I can knock myself out here. Bob has been so helpful in helping me emotionally accept these limits... and embrace the 10,000 other things I can still do. Tuolomne just sounds wonderful... and if there would be that chance to head out for some multi-pitch with walk offs.... WOW. Winner-winner. ----------- This has been such an incredible summer so far. It was such a long and frightening trudge out of this last year of illness... and I'm maybe 80% better... but I'll take it. I totally entertain myself on my morning outings... find places to hike, play music, just have fun. I'm so sorry Tony can't join me. Listening to Traffic this morning.... The Low Spark of High Heeled Boys. Covered the entire WAR album last week. Snakes took the day off.  I keep an eye on Randy's rock. It has a real name (Echo). But it's a point of contact for me... that beautiful line Swept Away. So, if I lose my direction or my car... I always know relative to this rock where I am.  Am getting SO ready for some climbing. :-) |
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Lori, you can climb with a partner quite close by, party of 3, with someone competent to bring up 2 persons. That's by far the safest approach to multi for those of us who are pretty much luggage, lol! I did Theater of Shadows with John and Jean, actually, although that was 2 full ropes, me tied in to both. One line ahead of me (my top belayed top rope), one line trailing me (Jean's top belayed follow). All that was required of me was to just unclip and reclip the draws from one rope to the other, as I climbed to them. And stay out of the way, otherwise, lol! This is ONLY with people you totally trust, because you'll be following their directions exactly. But, that's kinda who you are set up with, all along. This can be done with people tied into two ropes, two ends of the same rope, or, any place along a single rope. If Bob can't explain this to you, please do him the favor of just shooting him, eh? Something stupid easy, with lots of protection, really good, understanding partners who are STOKED to help you out, and get the diabetes thing, with the option to bail at any point? Lori? There's a whole world of really fun stuff out there, in this category. Some of my all time favorite climbs gave been 5.4ish, with super special people. Only short things, too, no many pitches multipitch, but every multi (and one memorable single pitch) has been with some variation of the above. Party of 3, me in the middle and totally trusting the partners. Climbing teaches us, well, me at least, lessons that extend far beyond mere hands and feet on rock! And I've been gifted so, so much from so many people, too! That's what's been the most extraordinary part of this, for me. Finding my people. And discovering this "climber" person, hiding out in the Old Lady!! Who knew????!? Best, Helen Edit to add, I'm pondering a second try at a Crossfit type thing in October! Wall balls (again, argh) and 20" box step will be the real challenges for me. Arthritic knees combined with being really short, sigh. Still, I know people are amazed and amused, at me even trying! |
Oldtradguywrote: Hey John, Stover's Obnoxious Partner? |
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Helen, how come we haven't seen climbing pictures from you? I'd love to see what you did at the last COR! Are they over on the COR thread? Come to think of it, there were very few pictures on this thread of anyone from that vacay. Did you all just sit around and eat pizza??? I HATE to write about excuses. I love to write about good times, and good challenges that inspire me. So focusing on the fact that I am diabetic is a bummer for me. It should be enough to say '1 pitch' (of any length). I know of which I speak. I am strong enough, and plenty capable enough, to climb almost anything. The problem isn't having enough good climbers around me. It's the crisis that ensues with that rare but significant emergency low. I have to be able to save myself. No 2 or 3 man team is going to do that for me. The ground is the best place to do that. Things may change. I have some thoughts on it. I'll get with Bob this year to see how he feels about my plan. I've now climbed with 2 other Type 1 diabetics, and I know a third very well. Two of those three take huge risks on the rock... I've seen them climb while they were low, dingy, unstable. They don't seem to mind. "I" would mind climbing with them, terribly. It's dangerous for all concerned. And that goes for the climbing gym, where I always made sure I was stable, and with a chalk bag full of backup sugar, before I ever belayed my partner. It's the right thing to do. Bob rightly asks me my blood sugar levels before we head out for a crag, and before I tie in to climb. I've had my blood sugar drop 150 points in the 20 minutes it takes to walk from the car to Brownie Dome. I've had numerous lows while out hiking lately, the worst was over by the Elephant route... but because I was on the ground, in shade, and where I could take off my backback and start guzzling sugar, in 20-30 minutes I was ok to keep on. No one should have to deal with that (me) on a multi-pitch climb with multiple raps to lower down. I am SO happy and grateful for what I have, what I'm doing right here right now... which is pretty extreme imo. As for Tioga Pass... it is the shirtless guys who caught my eye, I guess. If Jan says I can't go there... then I guess I have to accept that, too. Lots of shirtless guys right here, tho. I can ogle them instead. What a GREAT summer! Can we get some summer reports? Nick? Colden? Everyone? |
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My last outing was a non climbing camping one, but super fun! I was the one to spot a marten (although I was pointing and yelling "not a marmot!!", lol), which was a first for most of my group. They aren't usually out in the open, but this one was tearing across a talus slope with a pika in it's mouth! Climbing, I don't know that anyone bothered taking any pics that I'm in. Partner did the terrible shot of me in the sports bra. He is pretty oblivious to what's a good or bad angle, for climbing pics. I took quite a few pics, but people who aren't in this thread, or weren't even in our COR group. I don't like to post pics publicly, unless I'm sure the person doesn't mind. There was rather a lot of weather, that trip, which is a severe understatement! Kinda biblical.... But, the tomato plants are huge! They liked that rain! And, so far, fire season isn't over the top. So far. H. |
phylp phylpwrote: Phylp Our friend Ed always likes to carry a heavy pack. Could not convince him to get rid of some of the junk that he was carrying. We did the climb 9/5/13. That was time there was massive fires to the west of Tuolumne Meadows. There was only 5 people on the entire peak. One couple and the three of us. We had the entire place to us plus the smoke. Back in July 2003 we drove across country to do Matthes Crest. Our son was going to Un of Utah at that time. After visiting our son, we drove from SLC to Tuolumne Meadows. We took route 6 across NV. Past this sign along the way.  I believe that the hike was 8 miles. Stopped by Bud Lake and took this picture of Jean.  This is Matthes Crest seen in the distance  On top   Hiking back out  We always try to stop at Roberto's Cafe for Mexican food before we leave. John |
 Continuing with photos of Tuolumne classics: 2005 top of Cathedral Peak. Just look at that view! |
 More Tuolumne Meadows. Here are some of those famous Tuolumne knobs. Me leading something on East Cottage Dome, Year and route forgotten. Post limit edit for C Miller: |
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Oh dear.....  Backyard tomatoes.... But.... I haven't picked the front yet.   The more you look, the more there are....and only one of me!
 The front yard haul. Today is a pickup day at the food pantry in my neighborhood, so I'll see if they can take them. H. The answer was yes. |
Mark Frumkinwrote: Is this TM, Mark? Would you mind mentioning the name of the route? |
Terry Ewrote: I’m going to guess Needle Spoon. |
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Yes, TM & Yes Needle Spoon. |
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Lori, there are many, many single pitch routes in Tuolumne. Many of them are pretty close to the road, many not at all. Medlicott, Low Profile, River Wall, Dozier Dome, Hammer Dome, and Lembert all have great single pitch routes that are in your comfort zone, difficulty wise. Here is a picture of one of the routes on the ledge at Medlicott. There are routes from 5.9 to 5.13 here. There are also a bunch of routes on the gray slab below this climber from 5.9 to 5.12 with great tree shade.  |
Jan Mcwrote: I was just going to take a few days off and let the conversation go elsewhere... but, darn. You know what to say, Jan. Thank you so much. The whole discussion of Yosemite has always been overwhelming to me... it just sounded like a nightmare of booking, scheduling, traffic and impossible logistics, so I've been relieved to just not bother. At some point, will you give me an idea of where/when for Tuolomne? If I could put together a solo trip (one week, two?) that I could pull off just myself and not freak out driving in circles... I'm sure finding a partner/guide would be the easy part. That right there (what you posted above) is the picture to motivate me... I REALLY appreciate it. I could have saved a bunch of writing on previous posts by just quoting the words of my doctor (regarding diabetes) "Always pack your own parachute." I'm trying. --- Everyone is napping here today, and it's great. Tony and Mal snoozing in the living room. Her little dog has only yelped twice today. This will be an unforgettable summer. Morning hikes are strenuous and sweaty, but afternoon movies, watermelon and naps are the best. Tony got the first of several test results. Not good. Why do I always feel like I'm going to lose the ones I love the most. I know it's a little too little too late to start eating asparagus. (or collards). He's trying. |
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There are so many routes there that you would just love. It is knob climbing which is interesting but entails the same finesse that thin edging does. And if you want, there is lots of thin edging as well on beautiful glacier polish. Here are a couple examples of how cool the climbing is there.  This is one of my favorites called Black Widow on Low Profile Dome. A little run but just so rewarding - and only 5.9.  Another one of the best - Shadow of a Doubt - 10c - on Hammer Dome.  |
