Training without Periodization?
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Are there any resources/coaches/training experts that detail how to train for climbing without periodization? I understand that periodization is the best way to maximize potential but I'm reluctant to commit to a periodized approach to a non-competitive sport that I do for pleasure. If willing to sacrifice maximum potential to avoid periodization, are there recommendations, for example, for what to add to a week with x number of days of recreational climbing in order to see improvement? |
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See Steve Bechtel and nonlinear periodization He had a website and books. https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534 |
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"What to add" really depends on your strengths/weaknesses, and goals. It's not like "add 3 sets of 10 pullups", or "add 2 hangboard workouts" is going to be universally applicable... |
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Based on your ticks it looks like you climb about 5.10. I wouldn't make it too complicated... it's likely you can see huge gains from focusing on movement skills and mileage. I saw Marshfield corners on your to-do list. It's an awesome route... Go out there and climb it!! It's summer time and before you know it, it will be cold and wet for another 8 months. But, if you must train, if you haven't trained much before, almost anything you do will work better than what you are doing now (nothing). Just don't overdo it and hurt yourself. |
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Boulder once a week. |
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Lena chitawrote: This is exactly what people need to understand. Nobody can progress forever with the same weekly routine, even if you do increase intensity, sets, reps, etc. You'll plateau after a few weeks or a couple months (latter if you're a complete beginner at the exercise). Jonathan Siegrest and Chris Sharma both climb outside in season all the time! Even they adjust volume and side projects as a way to adjust their body, skills and recovery to fit their current goals with some focused gym training in the off season. As mentioned above. Timing peaks instead of valleys for that last ditch attempt or big trip is extremely important to differentiate where the peak is a long term goal/personal best and the valley is overtraining/sickness/injury. |




