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Training without Periodization?

Original Post
Peter Burgos · · Winooski, VT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

Are there any resources/coaches/training experts that detail how to train for climbing without periodization? I understand that periodization is the best way to maximize potential but I'm reluctant to commit to a periodized approach to a non-competitive sport that I do for pleasure. If willing to sacrifice maximum potential to avoid periodization, are there recommendations, for example, for what to add to a week with x number of days of recreational climbing in order to see improvement?

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 957

See Steve Bechtel and nonlinear periodization

He had a website and books.

https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842

"What to add" really depends on your strengths/weaknesses, and goals. It's not like "add 3 sets of 10 pullups", or "add 2 hangboard workouts" is going to be universally applicable...

As to going to great lengths to avoid periodization, paraphrasing what a wise friend had told me a long time ago, peaks and valleys will always happen. You can try to be in control of their timing, or you can be surprised when they randomly hit you.

Periodization doesn't have to mean that you commit to 3 months of no-fun training when you don't get to climb, and only get to do boring drills. Even something as simple as taking an easy/recovery week every 4-5 weeks creates a periodization framework. Agree with Steve Bechtel's suggestion. Though his "Linear progression" has a lot of periodization built into it, as you start reading.

All training plans available from lattice, Power company, etc, start with input from you on what YOU want. If you want a gym-based training plan culminating in 3 week roadtrip, they'll do that for you. If you want a "I'm-climbing-outside-every-weekend-and-only-have-a-small-hangboard-for-weekninghts" plan, they can do that, too.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Based on your ticks it looks like you climb about 5.10. I wouldn't make it too complicated... it's likely you can see huge gains from focusing on movement skills and mileage. I saw Marshfield corners on your to-do list. It's an awesome route... Go out there and climb it!! It's summer time and before you know it, it will be cold and wet for another 8 months. 

But, if you must train, if you haven't trained much before, almost anything you do will work better than what you are doing now (nothing). Just don't overdo it and hurt yourself. 

Tony S · · Minnesota · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 379

Boulder once a week. 

Cody Ratterman · · Logan, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 623
Lena chitawrote:

"What to add" really depends on your strengths/weaknesses, and goals. It's not like "add 3 sets of 10 pullups", or "add 2 hangboard workouts" is going to be universally applicable...

As to going to great lengths to avoid periodization, paraphrasing what a wise friend had told me a long time ago, peaks and valleys will always happen. You can try to be in control of their timing, or you can be surprised when they randomly hit you.

Periodization doesn't have to mean that you commit to 3 months of no-fun training when you don't get to climb, and only get to do boring drills. Even something as simple as taking an easy/recovery week every 4-5 weeks creates a periodization framework. Agree with Steve Bechtel's suggestion. Though his "Linear progression" has a lot of periodization built into it, as you start reading.

All training plans available from lattice, Power company, etc, start with input from you on what YOU want. If you want a gym-based training plan culminating in 3 week roadtrip, they'll do that for you. If you want a "I'm-climbing-outside-every-weekend-and-only-have-a-small-hangboard-for-weekninghts" plan, they can do that, too.

This is exactly what people need to understand. Nobody can progress forever with the same weekly routine, even if you do increase intensity, sets, reps, etc. You'll plateau after a few weeks or a couple months (latter if you're a complete beginner at the exercise). 

Jonathan Siegrest and Chris Sharma both climb outside in season all the time! Even they adjust volume and side projects as a way to adjust their body, skills and recovery to fit their current goals with some focused gym training in the off season.

As mentioned above. Timing peaks instead of valleys for that last ditch attempt or big trip is extremely important to differentiate where the peak is a long term goal/personal best and the valley is overtraining/sickness/injury.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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