New Petzl belay device

Michael Casperwrote:

Is having the brake strand on the same side as the ‘biner gate a potential hazard, especially when lowering with a GriGri? It wouldn’t surprise me if a rope rubbing the gate could potentially open a locking carabiner.

I'm left handed and my belay biner always have the gate facing right. The rope will not come near the gate of the biner if you are using the Grigri normally.

This is one of the more inane and speculative threads I've ever seen. 

Are they going to make one for lefties!?!? Doubt it…. 

Can the “Grigri droppers” please drop-out and take it elsewhere.    I’m more interested in going down the rabbit hole that speculates about the LRS potential. I’ve used and modified so many GGs different ways that I shoulda bought stock in Petzl. Maybe this one will be the holy grail    

SICgripswrote:

Can the “Grigri droppers” please drop-out and take it elsewhere.    I’m more interested in going down the rabbit hole that speculates about the LRS potential. I’ve used and modified so many GGs different ways that I shoulda bought stock in Petzl. Maybe this one will be the holy grail    

Could be, but I’m not really counting on it… not stock, anyway. It looks like it Carrie’s over some of the flaws that you had to mod out in the first place with the grigri. Feed may be better, though.

you should maybe try out my matik setup. There’s one soft mod that I think would make it near flawless (we need more fall trials to Suss out hidden failure modes, though)

SICgripswrote:

Can the “Grigri droppers” please drop-out and take it elsewhere.    I’m more interested in going down the rabbit hole that speculates about the LRS potential. I’ve used and modified so many GGs different ways that I shoulda bought stock in Petzl. Maybe this one will be the holy grail    

I'm still hoping that the reps just don't know that the centrifugal clutch is actually in there like the patent shows. It wouldn't be the first time that a rep didn't know everything about a product that they represent.

Victor Creazziwrote:

I'm still hoping that the reps just don't know that the centrifugal clutch is actually in there like the patent shows. It wouldn't be the first time that a rep didn't know everything about a product that they represent.

That would be a pretty huge core feature to leave out. Based on current product lines, I think if anyone’s going to build a ‘better revo’ it will be edelrid. Time will tell

Which patent is it that people are referring to?

I'm curious about how it differs from Black Diamond's patents.google.com/patent/E…

That was never granted. 

folks just some clarity: there's no clutch mechanism, and the wheel spins freely. The blocking of the rope is achieved by the hunk of metal forward of the wheel

Separately, if you are like me and you really want a GRIGRI style device that has been drop-proofed in the same way as the RIG and ID (with the wonderful lil clippy thing on the aluminum faceplate), yes, cost and demand are the most likely culprits stopping that from happening. Imagine, for example, the complexity and cost of the GRIGRI+ stainless steel braking lip compared to the regular GRIGRI faceplate; the former requires two complicated pieces of different types of metal to be fabricated and then stuck together, and the latter simply requires some punching and bending of a single piece of aluminum. These are the kinds of cost and manufacturing considerations that drive a lot of decisions companies have to make when they operate at impossibly large scale and they're producing life-protecting equipment

If ten thousand of you emailed Petzl saying "I'd pay 200 USD for a drop proof GRIGRI without a second thought, send me a preorder link you cowards," you might be able to move the needle on this. Please email them. I want a mechanically drop-proofed GRIGRI at nearly any price and they're not gonna make me a one-off

Pat Lightwrote:

folks just some clarity: there's no clutch mechanism, and the wheel spins freely. The blocking of the rope is achieved by the hunk of metal forward of the wheel

So what if a fall occurs when the rope is heading straight up out of the device and isn't in contact with that metal? This image makes that look possible.

Dan Dwrote:

So what if a fall occurs when the rope is heading straight up out of the device and isn't in contact with that metal? This image makes that look possible.

The pivoting mechanism that pushes the metal chunk into the brake plate is actuated in a similar way to the GRIGRI; the entire mechanism in the center (wheel and all) pivots in unison in order to block the rope, it's just that the actual stopping power is provided by the metal chunk squeezing the rope, not the wheel itself squeezing the rope or stopping its own spin. The large silver pin you see sort of offset in the wheel is the center (axis?) of the pivot. 

Dan Dwrote:

So what if a fall occurs when the rope is heading straight up out of the device and isn't in contact with that metal? This image makes that look possible.

It will brake because if your hand is in the correct braking position the rope would no longer be straight up, is the function of belay devices somehow foreign to you?

Jim Tittwrote:

It will brake because if your hand is in the correct braking position the rope would no longer be straight up, is the function of belay devices somehow foreign to you?

Wait, you're supposed to keep your hand ON the brake strand? No wonder all my partners keep decking.

Jim Tittwrote:

That was never granted. 

I know nearly nothing about patents, but think this very similar one was granted? patents.google.com/patent/U…

nat hanwrote:

I know nearly nothing about patents, but think this very similar one was granted? https://patents.google.com/patent/US9623269B2/

Previous link was to EU patent. Interesting - it was withdrawn in EU, while granted in US

Michael Casperwrote:

Is having the brake strand on the same side as the ‘biner gate a potential hazard, especially when lowering with a GriGri? It wouldn’t surprise me if a rope rubbing the gate could potentially open a locking carabiner.

No, after clipping the carabiner I flip it 180 so the small side is touching the GriGri and the gate is facing left. With a petzl SmD this almost entirely prevents weird cross loading too. 

Edit: Yup sorry no more on this. It's flipping easy to not drop a grigri. 

I'm very curious to try out the neox, might be nice for the gym. Based on a recent video from hard is easy on YT about brake-assisted device and grigri locking, the neox might be worse than the grigri at locking up in a LRS or no-brake-hand scenario.

John Edwinwrote:

For gym heroes 

I know some bad mother fu***** who will out climb anyone on anything that use this device every week and they hate climbing in a gym. 

Matt Kingwrote:

I know some bad mother fu***** who will out climb anyone on anything that use this device every week and they hate climbing in a gym. 

Good job reading at least half the first page before replying. Gold star for you ⭐️