Most comfortable aiders and aid shoes

The shoes and aiders you’re posting just aren’t available.. 

I’ve got to make my gear decisions based on what’s actually available.. I go through a pair of Approach shoes maybe every 3 El Cap routes.. and aid ladders a little less frequently- but both are Consumables- if I can’t get a replacement fast and easily- I’d rather adapt to what’s available.. 

Quinn Hatfieldwrote:

The shoes and aiders you’re posting just aren’t available.. 

I’ve got to make my gear decisions based on what’s actually available.. I go through a pair of Approach shoes maybe every 3 El Cap routes.. and aid ladders a little less frequently- but both are Consumables- if I can’t get a replacement fast and easily- I’d rather adapt to what’s available.. 

Those pesky approach shoes just aren’t built to last—partly because they just aren’t built for aiding. And I have a feeling that the OP doesn’t do El Cap as often as you do. 

But they are Built- and readily available.. “Aid Boots” aren’t.. even 30yrs ago Five Tennies were the Standard wall shoe.. I know there have been a few “wall boots” made since then, but at the moment there isn’t really anything on the market.. 

from an armchair perspective it’s great to talk about better gear from days gone by, but if you’re trying to get ready today to go to the valley next weekend, you’ve got to be able to buy what you need.. 

As far as op- just calculate it as pitches.. 3x EC routes is like 60-100 pitches.. that’s decent use out of $125 shoes IMHO 

George Bracksieckwrote:

This style of aiders was used by everyone not that long ago. You can still top-step and even match/switch feet in the rungs, although doing so is harder when wearing the clunky approach shoes everyone insists on using these days—because that’s the fashion in vogue. If you wear comfy, stiff climbing shoes, it’s easier. So to say that using such aiders isn’t aid is… funny. If the OP or anyone would like to pay more for yours, hey! It’s a free country! (Or is it really?)

Those style aiders / etriers are still very commonly used.   That style is my preferred style and I have no plans to use ladder style aiders despite the fact I make and sell ladders,  which definitely seems to have taken over in common usage these days.  

Quinn Hatfieldwrote:

But they are Built- and readily available.. “Aid Boots” aren’t.. even 30yrs ago Five Tennies were the Standard wall shoe.. I know there have been a few “wall boots” made since then, but at the moment there isn’t really anything on the market.. 

from an armchair perspective it’s great to talk about better gear from days gone by, but if you’re trying to get ready today to go to the valley next weekend, you’ve got to be able to buy what you need.. 

As far as op- just calculate it as pitches.. 3x EC routes is like 60-100 pitches.. that’s decent use out of $125 shoes IMHO 

A few years back Adidas made a fantastic wall boot which was discontinued only a few seasons after its release.  I scoured the inter webs and scored two pairs, one of which is still brand new and in the box.  I hope that another equal quality boot becomes available before I wear out my inventory.   

Skot Richardswrote:

Those style aiders / etriers are still very commonly used.   That style is my preferred style and I have no plans to use ladder style aiders despite the fact I make and sell ladders,  which definitely seems to have taken over in common usage these days.  

Hey Skot —
I know whatever you make is excellent, so people will be smart to have you make them ladders. I bought an Alfifi and a couple of 12” rivet hangers from you, and I love them!

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

When did this thread become George's lawn?

Hey! Get off! And clean up after your dog!

MP is a good outlet for grumpiness. All of our six grandkids call me Grumpy. Maybe they’re on to something….

Skot Richardswrote:

Those style aiders / etriers are still very commonly used.   That style is my preferred style and I have no plans to use ladder style aiders despite the fact I make and sell ladders,  which definitely seems to have taken over in common usage these days.  

My entire first tour as a BigWall Climber in the 90’s was spent using 2 sets of Eteiers.. 4 total, 2 on each Daisy… 

When I came back to Walling after 20yrs off I switched to Ladders.. but kept a “floater” so I could always be on 2… eventually the clumsiness of the 3rd ladder and the ridicule from Kevin got me to lose the floater.. 

then Skot and Hudon convinced me to go “Daisyless” and now I have to bring the 3rd aider again- for when I drop one!!

Anyway- I’m not scared to adapt with the times 

Hey, George and Skot, forgot to ask. Why do you prefer the etrier style aiders? 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

That's it. George is my new favorite MP user 

Don’t encourage him. You may regret it! He has nothing to do but lurk and vent. He doesn’t do facebook or insta or twitter or anything but MP. He does have the best doggie in the world—even cuter than 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Hey, George and Skot, forgot to ask. Why do you prefer the etrier style aiders? 

I have both styles. Getting my foot in and out is definitely easier with the ladder. That’s more of a concern if I’m wearing approach shoes. I prefer, however, to wear comfy, stiff high-top climbing shoes, so getting in and out of etriers becomes less of a challenge. Aid climbing quickly blows out the toes of shoes, so those that have had toe caps installed last longer and are more expendable, anyway.  For example, I once blew out the toes of my OG TCs on merely a third of a pitch of heel-toe. Now those have toe caps. 

Quick Public Service Announcement:

I was reading this thread Wednesday morning, and remembered that my ladders were pretty trashed- and I’d need some new ones before I do another wall.. I went on https://www.skotswallgear.com/ and ordered a pair- when I got home Thursday afternoon they were waiting for me next to the door.. less than 36hrs later.. 

Handmade in America badass-ness at a competitive price and better shipping than Bezos! Every piece of Skots gear has been awesome! Can’t wait to run these new ladders!! 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

You using that method for aid intensive walls or for walls that are mostly free with intermittent aid or both?

Last time I was on a wall (1997), I swore I’d never wear approach shoes again! It was intermittent aid and free. I’ve never done an intensive wall. I’ve since done lots of short intensive aid and was still happy to be in climbing shoes. I get that many long days in the stirrups require durable, comfortable shoes. Those Boreal Big Wall shoes would be the ticket—if you can find any.
In addition, I often find that climbing shoes help with intensive aid. For example, a half-free move can help me reach an unreachable placement or avoid a scary hook, etc.

George Bracksieckwrote:

if you can find them. 

You can’t 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Hey, George and Skot, forgot to ask. Why do you prefer the etrier style aiders? 

I guess it’s just the way I was taught.  I run two sets of etriers , that’s four total.  I like being able to rest step and triangle post.  Ya’ll can wear yourselves out standing on one leg all day.  

Quinn Hatfieldwrote:

Quick Public Service Announcement:

I was reading this thread Wednesday morning, and remembered that my ladders were pretty trashed- and I’d need some new ones before I do another wall.. I went on https://www.skotswallgear.com/ and ordered a pair- when I got home Thursday afternoon they were waiting for me next to the door.. less than 36hrs later.. 

Handmade in America badass-ness at a competitive price and better shipping than Bezos! Every piece of Skots gear has been awesome! Can’t wait to run these new ladders!! 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Anyone "standing in one leg all day" when climbing in a pair of ladders while using one at a time (unless they're top stepping) doesn't know how to stand and work in ladders 

Guilty….!  I definitely don’t know how to, I’ve never tried them.  

It’s funny to me that the guy that shamed me in to switching from 4 aiders to 2 aiders uses Daisys- 

And the guy that shamed me in to climbing Daisy-less uses 4 aiders.. 

Can I shame you into climbing no daisies and two ladders?

(btw, I climbed w/ the evolv you gave me on friday, w/ zero shame ;)  Thanks again for the generosity.

Christian Heschwrote:

Can I shame you into climbing no daisies and two ladders?

That’s where I’m at now!!