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Seeking Tips for Index Slab and Knob Climbing

Original Post
Rio H · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 852

Hi, this might sound gumby of me but I was seeking for tips for climbing slabby Index routes. I feel like there is a distinct class of Index climbing (or maybe granite in general) separate from edgy sport climbs and crack climbs where you have to smear your feet on knobs or dimples. For example, there's a clear difference between the style of climbing for Climax Control (better handholds) vs Wham. Or Raggedy Ann vs Slapshot. Even if there is a crimp rail like Dana's Arch, I find my feet slip a lot. I like to wear Katana laces if that matters.

The logical approach is to start from easier knob and slab climbs (maybe Zoom) and just "climb more" but I would also like to know if there are other advice or routes that emphasize footwork without having it be too much of a slip fest. My goals would be to climb things like Eraserhead or Wham. 

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,763

Maybe clenching with the groin, knees mostly bent until established on the knob-smear? I tend to do that for all face climbing, though it seems to require more delicate motion and tires out my legs and calves more on the slopy knobs. Some routes also seem to require stickier rubber, such as Free Cat. 

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

I don’t know if anyone knows how to climb wham. 

Kerwin Loukusa · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 183

There is some optimal foot position for each hold that is rarely fully relying on the edge of the shoe entirely, more of a "smedge" (smear edge), then being able to maintain that position as you move on the foothold by articulating your foot and ankle. It honestly just takes a ton of practice.


You can try climbing slab problems in the gym with no hands to help you learn how to balance on the holds without the aid of your hands, also climbing slabby problems with your eyes closed to learn to feel the optimal position is another drill. 

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,077

Softer shoes with sticky rubber helps, dropping your heel helps, cool temps help, a lot of core tension helps, praying your foot doesn’t slip helps.


I know a lot of people would disagree, but I really liked solutions on the climbs you mentioned. They feel like a good compromise that smears well with sticky rubber, but stiff enough to give support and edge. 

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

Go slip off some 5.11 slabs on the apron at Squamish.  When you stop sliding you’ll be in the perfect stance and you’ll probably be standing on smaller stuff than what you slid off of. 

Rio H · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 852

Maybe clenching with the groin, knees mostly bent until established on the knob-smear

That's a muscle I never considered using, thanks for the tip!

> Go to the UW Rock.

I forgot how slippery that rock was! I should try going again. 

Adam Wood · · seattle · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 1,453

I really like the futura from sportiva for index features. The ability to roll the shoes onto smears and knobs is really helpful.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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