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Any small crags that have a nice swimming hole?

Original Post
Buzz Letzter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2022 · Points: 262

Hey all - I'm trying to find a spot to head for my bday next month for a good climb and swim.  

Ideally, I'm trying to find a place where my lady and I can climb a few sport routes (can be as little as a handful of routes) and set up a tent near a swimming hole/have a fire for the weekend. The idea is to spend time out in a beautiful space (rather than finding super classic crags/routes) but also get on the rock at some point.

Any good spots? I'm willing to drive up to 8 hours from San Diego so Kings Canyon (and area's around there) wouldn't be out of the question.

Cheers,
Buzz

Kevin Worrall · · La Jolla, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 264

Malibu Creek State park, maybe. Not sure about camping regulations.

If you want privacy, and don’t mind hiking from camp to crag, there’s Eagle Peak



Buzz Letzter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2022 · Points: 262

Yea fair point, Kevin. Especially with all the water at EP, it would be ideal.



Jay Crew · · Apple Valley CA, · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 8,901

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106765409/deep-creek-narrows

not sport climbing but....maybe this.... The creek is rushing right now with snow melt

Kevin Worrall · · La Jolla, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 264

This is the best way I’ve found, that gully is full of big stair like rocks that make vertical gain easy. It’s about 900 vertical ft to the base of the crag. You leave the climbers’ access trail at the low spot just before lunch rock at the base of Cruise Line.

You can see the spot in the photo from the crag, and it’s pretty sweet down there. There’s a water slide and swimming holes, flat water polished slabs, a sand bar, some shade, some sun. For various reasons I think Native Americans left the drainage there when traveling from the coast to the Cuyamaca area, to avoid the rough terrain and waterfalls in the upper drainage. There is an eroded trail leading up from that spot, and after the Cedar Fire, when everything was burnt to a crisp, we saw evidence of a well traveled foot path on the ridge above the road cut leading out to EP from the parking. We found several artifacts, including most of a large olla.

I went down there a few times and found the best route - thought about improving a trail but never got around to it.

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,797

Malibu Creek campsites are not near the water but clustered together a very long walk away at a grassy area with trees.  camping around Malibu in general is limited and notoriously pricey

Point Mugu's Thornhill Broome CG does offer camping right on the beach, if ocean is just as good as a water hole.  $35/night.  park along Hwy 1 to pitch tent on the sand, with table and fire ring.  would have to do short drives to climb, but pretty near Malibu Creek, Corpse Wall, Point Dume, Echo Cliffs, etc

Buzz Letzter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2022 · Points: 262

Thanks for all the insight, y'all.  Just gotta make a decision at this point!

Cheers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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