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Versatile Belay parkas?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,737

It sounds like you need a larger pack for Denali.

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

You might be able to get away with something from PhD such as https://www.phdesigns.co.uk/hispar-down-jacket

Though it might be a little light and in the use of down over synthetic might cause problems

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

The answer to your question is the MH Phantom Parka

Ray Lovpal · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 2,004
Gunkiemikewrote:

It sounds like you need a larger pack for Denali.

I don’t hav ethe pack yet but a denali pack is larger than 75-100L? 

Ray Lovpal · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 2,004
John Edwinwrote:

The answer to your question is the MH Phantom Parka

The phantom zero? I think the nilas is bigger/warmer than just the regular phantom parka. 

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
Ray Lovpalwrote:

The phantom zero? I think the nilas is bigger/warmer than just the regular phantom parka. 

Fill weight is essentially identical, 220g for the Phantom Parka , 225g for the Nilas. The Phantom is 20% lighter and packs considerably smaller due to the Nilas outer fabric

M DP · · BC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Doug Hutchinsonwrote:

I would strongly recommend looking at the new Arc Teryx Nuclei SV. It's a little higher than your price range but at a retail price of $400 it is a ridiculously good deal, and today I'm seeing it for $300 at many sites which is a freaking steal for a jacket this good.

https://www.rei.com/product/192513/arcteryx-nuclei-sv-insulated-parka-mens

While on the subject of price, I would suggest if you use a price range of $200-300 for such an important piece of kit, you'll likely spend over $1,000 on several pieces over a few years and still not be stoked on any of them.

I've looked at the nuclei but there isn't too much info or reviews. What makes it so good? Is it really warm enough for Denali at just 600g?

Elijah Benson · · Austin, TX · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

https://cumulus.equipment/us_en/men-down-jacket-neolite-endurance.html

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,737
Ray Lovpalwrote:

I don’t hav ethe pack yet but a denali pack is larger than 75-100L? 

YMMV of course, but I need at least 90L just for winter weeks in the Whites or ADKs.

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5
M DPwrote:

I've looked at the nuclei but there isn't too much info or reviews. What makes it so good? Is it really warm enough for Denali at just 600g?

Nuclei SV has a great cut, functional pockets inside and out, excellent fit for climbing, belay compatible double zipper with bottom snap, and is very warm for the weight (its pretty darn light for all of the warmth and features!). It's a really good synthetic belay parka. 

Whether it is "warm enough" for Denali is a question with a lot of personal subjective factors. 

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
Linnaeuswrote:

Whether it is "warm enough" for Denali is a question with a lot of personal subjective factors. 

No it is not. The Nuclei is nowhere near warm enough for Denali. For the weight and space it takes up, it shouldn’t even be on the list of parkas to consider 

Elijah Benson · · Austin, TX · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

https://cumulus.equipment/us_en/men-down-jacket-neolite-endurance.html

Not quite at the 300g recommendation that I see on outfitting sites, but it’s 850 fp down. Their build quality is easily comparable to Patagonia or Arc.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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