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Max weight hangs vs grade climbed
jessie briggswrote: No slight on you, just the soft climbs you've done |
Not Not MP Adminwrote: Come on down to the red, but no saying it’s soft just cos you did all the moves first try and one hung it fifteen times |
jessie briggswrote: This explains things. I lived at Miguel’s for several seasons back when wild animals still ran around your tent and there weren’t showers connected to bathrooms and rooms for rent and definitely before they ever had that fancy paved basketball court lol |
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to be fair, +65 for someone at 165 means v7 at best. +125 for someone 135 is much closer to a true v10 - that is, someone who can consistently send a v10 anywhere. while it's possible to send a v10 with v7 fingers, it'd mostly come down to cherry picking the few v10s that don't require finger strength. of dozens of friends - all can one arm an 18mm edge when they sent v10. of the few v12 climbers i've met, they could all add weight to their one armed 18mm hangs. this is consistent with the countless data points accumulated by polls on social media as well as the professional coaching companies. a one armed hang on 18mm isn't That impressive. it's only impressive considering all the other requirements for v10 - one armed pullups, 147 on the campus board, l sits, etc. it's only impressive on these forums, where saying 'x is aid' is peak humor. he data is why serious discussions with coaching companies has helped a lot of climbers focus on weaknesses, which if you're really looking to improve, there are better resources online. |
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What is not taken into account enough is time spent outside. OP climbs year round outside. Of course that is going to translate to outperforming normal metrics because most people don’t have their lives setup that way and are overtrained in the gym. Not to sell you short Jessie as I know you’re a beast |
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Up until now, just climbing seemed to be enough, but now I’ll need to build up from where I am to 45kg and maybe up to my weight? 7 seconds 20mm or is it 10 seconds? |
Li Huwrote: Li, you absolutely need to climb more. You posted somewhere else that you can do multiple front lever pull-ups on a 20 mm, which is pretty impressive, and a 45kg/100 lb max hang is not bad either. I believe that you also said that you climb .12-/v5 outside. These numbers mean that you are much stronger than you actually climb. |
Frank Steinwrote: It’s tough admitting that one’s technique sucks, but climbing more is likely the answer. Thanks for the analysis. |
Frank Steinwrote: He’s also the same guy who claimed to climb “12d/13b in the mid-80’s”….. |
Not Not MP Adminwrote: 12b/13b sport |
Li Huwrote: Your initial post stated 12d/13b….but yet, somehow, you have make your situation even more murky and troll-like lol |
Not Not MP Adminwrote: Not sure how I’m being a troll, blowhard or asshole, maybe, but definitely not a troll. |
Li Huwrote: You can tell by the way it is. |
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Yo, Not Trevor, how’s the Not Kid? |
John Clarkwrote: Not sure.......pretty sure Puppy Lovr's self imposed ban ends soonish....I wanna say April? |
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Here's another data point Max hang: Basically body weight (I'm 175 plus or minus a few pounds). This is on an 18m edge for 10 seconds. This feels pretty hard to me but I could probably add a few pounds if I practiced a bit. Max boulder grade: v7 on New Hampshire granite (probably 5 or 6 of the grade in different styles but all on granite in good conditions). Consistent boulder grade: v5-v6 in a session most times I go out, flashed a few v5s. Max red point: 12b (NH schist crags) (second go, I haven't spent any time projecting routes). Consistent flash / on sight grade: 11c-11d (Rumney / NH sport areas) During the season I get outside at least twice a week and boulder on a small home wall two or three nights for an hour or so. My take away from reading the thread is that hangboarding probably helps but climbing outside a lot might be better (up to a certain level of difficulty). I don't currently feel like finger strength is a limiting factor for me but I've tried to pull onto a few finger intensive boulders in the v8-v10 range and there are some where I can barely hold the positions due to lack of finger strength. Not sure if that will change as I climb more or if I'll have to hangboard consistently at some point. |
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Adding a new datapoint: Max Hang: +119lbs @170lbs Max Boulder grade: V8 in Red Rock (probably soft) |
Dan Huangwrote: Holy shit. I only max hang +65 at 165 and have done a few 8s, one which is pretty consensus 8 |
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Dan here is letting those beast fingers down |
Dan Huangwrote: Seems reasonable. I also prefer climbing at a “comfortable” level. |
