Maintaining endurance / power endurance while on a long climbing trip climbing other styles
|
|
Been climbing in EPC and now Cochise for the last couple months, so mostly climbing technical face, slab, and longer desert adventures. Popped into the gym the other day, and realized that my power endurance, endurance, and ability to manage pump is shot (as might be expected). And the rare pitch we climb that is overhanging or steep feels like an utter surprise for my forearms. I'm interested in all the creative ideas folks have for maintaining power endurance / endurance - without frequent trips to the gym or a steep limestone area for intervals, how have folks handled this? We have access to a portable hangboard, time for training while at camp, and some single pitch sport climbs for laps. What are your best exercises for maintaining power endurance without frequently climbing steep stuff? (If that's even possible!) TIA!! |
|
|
Cochise has a couple small overhung sport crags you could lap to keep endurance up. |
|
|
80% repeaters |
|
|
https://spotify.link/DzA9HWFr7xb
|
|
|
If you have a hangboard with you I’d spend the extra time doing repeaters (7/3 or 10/5) and play with different versions of that. There is a lot of good information out there on the simplicity and effectiveness of this protocol. You can adjust the sets and take weight off or add weight depending on your hangboard set up. The hangboard for traveling fitness is a game changer IMO |
|
|
I wouldn’t try to maintain PE. IMHO it’s not worth the effort and recovery demands. Focus on strength and base endurance (aerobic, easy mileage) and put in a dedicated PE block four weeks before you want to perform. |
|
|
I wouldn't worry about it. The additional finger strength, vert technique, aerobic endurance and capacity might change how you view other projects. A several week break from steep climbing will be nice for your core and shoulders while the rest of your body maintains or south improves. Gym based power and power endurance especially almost disappears in about 2 weeks of no specific use but the more times/recently you've put in the training time the quicker your body remembers the adaptations. It's all about timing it right for your hardest red-points. So enjoy climbing new styles while you can and put all your energy into that instead of saving some for things you can do later in the gym! |




