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The race to repeat Burden of Dreams
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Has there ever been a climb with 3+ people racing to repeat it? Surely not with this level of realtime updates. We have videos of Aiden's cellar wall, Lattice's 3D replica training, Shawn Raboutou Youtube sessions in the "worst weather ever", and now with Will Bosi actually livestreaming his flash attempt and more on instagram. Stefano Ghisolfi is also trying it. Apparently Bosi, Ghisolfi and a Japanese climber Toru Nakajima will all be there together working it on Saturday. Meanwhile Nalle seemingly has checked out. Wild. |
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Surely some of this is the demand of social media for "content," but also crazy to see everyone's realtime process for trying to be the second. (also, yes I'm bored at work.) |
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I feel like that is not uncommon in hard bouldering. There were probably 10+ dudes working Alphane before, and after Shawn's ascent. |
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Did you miss what happened to the Eddie Bauer team? These guys are trying to get their number of followers on social media up. |
Bryan L wrote: ...yeah I dont think these people are on the same level or share the same worries. |
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Will live streaming his first go is cool as hell. What a time to be alive. |
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Did anybody else used to think Burden required like a 6 mile walk through the dark Finnish woods to get to it? I feel like that was the vibe but with all these videos it’s literally roadside. |
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Pretty sure Will is going to send it rather quickly, he got all the moves in 40 minutes and only seemed to struggle on the foot walk. |
Bryan wrote: Yeah it's roadside, but it's roadside in Lappnor, Finland, close the Arctic circle, and not chill to get to even if you live in Europe. Living in Boulder, I could reasonably walk to Megatron and go "fuuuuck that!" right to that bloc but I'm not going to ol' Lappnor to touch the holds. The amount of cheese being shredded just to do a few-move boulder is kinda nuts for anyone not local. |
Tony S wrote: That's the stupidest thing I've ever heard, but yet here I am: watching. |
Tony S wrote: Nalle’s been checked out for like a decade bro |
Doug Chism wrote: Based on Shawn’s videos the feet seem to be the crux… |
Yuri Rodea wrote: Stefano has had a blue check mark next to his handle for years bro. Watch your mouth! For real though, he actually has significantly more followers than a few of the influencers that EB picked up so I’m not sure the on-the-same-level is applicable to all of them |
Yuri Rodea wrote: Yeah I would hope that you're right but the entire pro climber sponsorship thing is changing a lot these days. |
Go Back to Super Topo wrote: If only there was a... Solutions to that. |
Long Ranger wrote: Coincidentally, I did exactly this today (ok, I think said "omg the holds are so tinnnyyyy" instead of "fuuuuck that"). But yeah, electric car from G1 to Eldo, then a short walk on snowy talus. No dino juice needed whereas flying to Finland would be quite a different story. |
Tony S wrote: Imagine being a V17 climber and still having to wait for burns on your proj, I should probably just give up now |
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God dammit I hate myself for this but is anyone else pissed about all the V17s being put up yet there hasn’t been one repeat of burden? Like am I taking crazy pills or is that not at all how the grades work. Obviously I’m not anywhere near the grade so what do I know but I do know I’m a few beers deep on st paddys and I’m just looking for a reason to blow off work tomorrow |
Adam Slattery wrote: Take your drunken energy and go to youtube. Burden didn’t get repeated because it is in Finland and conditions suck and it is the only boulder out in those woods |
John Clark wrote: https://27crags.com/crags/lappnor |
John Clark wrote: So standards and test pieces don’t exist anymore? Got it |
