Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

Aftershock (Tsunami Wall): Both anchors are significantly out of the wall and the bolts are moving all over the place while lowering. Reported by Sophie Andrews. Happy to help replace it if someone teaches me, or simply pay for the new glue-ins.

B Koch wrote:

Every single protection bolt on Cocopuss, at Coco Crag, is tipped out. Some worse than others. 

Does anyone know if these bolts have been replaced?

Lauren Errichiellowrote:

Does anyone know if these bolts have been replaced?

Unlikely

Flake Eyes (The Twinkie, Sandstone Quarry): A couple of the wedge bolts (maybe 3rd and 4th in particular) are tipped pretty far out of the wall. This is one of the three original routes on the wall from 1988, with Short but Sweet and Like Mom Used to Make being the other two. I'd imagine those might need attention as well, though I didn't climb them.

How far is threaded stud sticking out? Happens a lot with wedge bolts in sandstone as they often don't "bite" like you want them to when tightening them down.

Evan Noronhawrote:

Came here to echo this comment. I didn't try to pull the right bolt out in tension since the left one is bomber, and the loose one seemed "maybe good enough" in sheer, but I'm sure it will pop out with a good tug. I climbed ~100 pitches in RR this past October, and this is the only bolt that I felt needs immediate attention.

This bolt has been fixed. Thank you to whoever did that. In fact many of the anchors on this route have seen recent work. Some anchors I usually rappel from (bolted ones) were now confirmed missing or moved. Twice I needed to alter my typical route. 

Mongol Hoarde, Civilizaton Crag - 4th bolt and right hand anchor bolt are spinners.

Hand drilled heaven at burns wall second bolt is very loose (protects the crux)

Every single protection bolt, and both anchor bolts have horribly rusted hangers, and most are tipped out, on External Locus at James Brown. Not sure if this route is worthy of bolt replacement, but if folks are gonna climb it, I guess it might as well be done safely.

One of the higher anchors on Sour Mash (second from last?) has a very worn quicklink.  If someone brought a ql, 1 chain link and another ql they could equalize it with the other bolt.  

The anchor mussy hooks on Red Heat (10d) have broken springs and do not properly stay closed. One seems in ok condition, but the right one is pretty manky. In theory it is safe for use (similar to a cold shut) but just wanted to bring it up if someone is out there and has a chance to replace it. All the protection bolts were in excellent condition thanks to the re-bolt in 2019!

Little Springs - Calico Basin 

Red ships of Spain - 4th bolt needs to be replaced, you could remove it by hand, tried to hand tighten as much as I could 

Red Nectar Rage - 3rd holt is spinning and loose, tried to hand tighten as much as possible

Blue Diamond Cave: the 12- that goes through the roof 2 routes left of Crouching Tiger (might be Covid-19, but the description on MP doesn't quite seem to match that route). Not the bolt itself, but the quicklink on the 3rd permadraw has come open and bent enough that it can't be screwed back shut. Still held a couple of small falls, but looks sketchy enough (and it's far enough above the 2nd bolt) that backing it up with another draw seemed prudent. Edit: Route is Wuhan-400

3rd bolt on Slot Machine at sunny and steep is loose..hand tightened it a bit, but I am afraid it will get loose again (or worse) as it is the one that takes the crux falls...these are not glue ins like it's neighbors, perhaps should be replaced with glue ins. Thanks.

Gun Club - shared anchor for Point Blank and Rock Salt need replacing. Both bolts at least an inch out of the rock. 

Buttstroke (La Madre - South facing Gun Club): huge loose block midway up the climb; mud, moss behind it and when I pulled on it today (3/15), it made a terrifying sound.  I taped up a leaver-carabiner in red-ish tape and left it on the first bolt as a warning.  This thing was pretty scary!  I’ll help if anyone needs it, I do access work on west desert UT choss for a living; but this should get looked at as soon as possible! Reported by DustinM.

Here’s to betting someone booties the carabiner before the loose block gets trundled. Lol

Alex Fletcherwrote:

Here’s to betting someone booties the carabiner before the loose block gets trundled. Lol

Haha yeah, I kinda figured but… I walked around the entire crag looking for a local who might know how to expedite it - not one.  I even called a shop inquiring about contacts and was told to just post on this thread

If you want the block trundled, best to just go do it yourself. Probably after everyone is gone for the day. Or absurdly early in the morning.

Make sure your rope isn’t underneath it!

I would certainly try to get another experienced person or two’s second opinion as to whether the specific block needs trundling at all.

Rock’s make noise sometimes but they don’t always need to go.

It’s been a while since I climbed this route but I don’t remember anything too bad. Could significantly change the character of the climb.

Best of luck!

I’m more than happy to handle it tomorrow morning.  Alex, do you have a crowbar I could borrow?  Do you have any interest in going out there with me?  6-7am?  If you’re not Ravioli Biceps, or another rep for SNCC, let the Org chime in.