Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Nick Nordblom, Mike Ward, Danny Meyers
Page Views: 2,509 total · 19/month
Shared By: claytown on Mar 19, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

scramble up to the top of the gully to the right of running man. start up the left-leaning, right facing dihedrals (the set on the right) until you reach the bolt line. zig zag your way up the face to the anchor in the bigger of the two huge huecos at the top of the wall. Double ropes would have been nice to reduce drag. This is an awesome adventure sport route!!! All the bolts are 10 - 20 feet apart. soft, sandy, slopey crimps on a steep slab. could be harder than 10d at this point.

Location

right of running man up the gully on the west-facing wall. this route takes the left angling ledge system to a line of 8 bolts up to the two huge huecos at the top of the wall. the anchor is in the left hueco.

Protection

single rack to .75 camalot (maybe two .75s). medium nuts. 8 bolts. 3 bolt anchor.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
a .75 and a #2 camalot and a few medium stoppers should work out fine on the rack. bring a few long slings for a couple of the bolts up high to reduce drag.

a single 70m line will get you down, which is nice.

amazing route- definitely be confident at the grade on this one.

oh, and for those of a mind, the bolts on this one really should be replaced soon! Feb 16, 2009
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10d PG13
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10d PG13
The belay "hole" at the top is one of the coolest hangouts around. This route is awesome. May 18, 2010
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Great route with a spicy finish. All bolts are spinners -- including the three at the belay anchor. Dec 13, 2011
Drew Peterson
  5.10d PG13
Drew Peterson  
  5.10d PG13
So I just waltz up to the bottom of this route after doing Running Man, and I'm all like, "yeah, one more pitch". This thing felt bold, exposed and sustained. Not your run of the mill 10d. Screw your head on straight and crimp criptically. Without chalk to lead the way this route is 5.11 most certainly. A 70 will get you down from the top as mentioned, and a trim rack up to 1.5" will suffice, along with some narrow headed Master Cams in the finger size. Worth doing! Once. Mar 10, 2013
BrianWS
  5.10+
BrianWS  
  5.10+
My first-ever route at RR... Truly a cool line. Sustained movement and cryptic beta, 5.10+ or 11- for sure. Mar 19, 2013
a.l.
 
a.l.  
 
Did a very early repeat of this route with Mike Ward (mid 90's maybe?)-it was loose and fun! Mike probably graded it 10-..back then he graded everything 10-. The heuco is a great stance! Jun 9, 2014
Bababata
Oakland, CA
  5.10d PG13
Bababata   Oakland, CA
  5.10d PG13
Definitely a spicy lead - the crux for me was just before the last bolt, and ~15 ft above the previous one... Make sure you are solid at the grade before getting on this one! Jan 5, 2015
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
 
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
 
Would give this route 4 stars but for the heinous rope drag that the wandering bolts cause even with slings on them. Dont really get why the bolts wonder so much as it could easily have gone more straight. Dec 30, 2015
Spectacular route! Bring your slab A game, and many long runners! 70m barely reaches . Jan 4, 2017
Great Climb! Smearing and small crimps way above the 3rd to last bolt. Bolts are in need of replacement although I tested one with a 20 footer and it held. Nov 15, 2018