Helmet while indoor leading?

Kevin Worrallwrote:

I haven’t paid the same dues for mtb as I have climbing, and I don’t have time to, Tradi. Plus, going OTB puts the melon directly in jeopardy.

Are you saying that skill equals safety??

I think it is likely that gyms will soon require helmets for lead-climbing, due to the nature of human error and frailty.

And insurance pressure. 

Keep in mind that the actual standards for climbing helmets only apply to falling objects— if head protection from a lead fall is the concern, definitely make sure your helmet is designed for that sort of impact (eg. Dual-rated ski/climbing helmets, MIPS, petzl’s voluntary side impact testing).

Eli Wwrote:

Keep in mind that the actual standards for climbing helmets only apply to falling objects— if head protection from a lead fall is the concern, definitely make sure your helmet is designed for that sort of impact (eg. Dual-rated ski/climbing helmets, MIPS, petzl’s voluntary side impact testing).

Is that still true though? Ten years ago sure, you can clearly see some of the old hard-hat designs don't cover the back of the head at all. If you have a recent foam helmet they have much better coverage. The standards might not have changed, but the designs have, I think Petzl/BD are clearly taking inverted lead falls into account.

I had a bad climbing accident where I flipped upside down in a no fall zone, though from the sound of it, it seems I fell backwards when I was looking up from a small ledge and wasn’t due to rope management (I have amnesia). I hit my head so hard my helmet actually fell off my head after being crushed and I got a really bad concussion. A bad scalp cut that bled all over my and my partner’s cams too. Having fallen with my head down first and having experienced first hand the aftermath, I do want to lead with a helmet. I am a doctor so I can also say $250,000 + was spent on the stuff in my brain too though it’s finally all paid off. But it’s really more about how my brain probably wouldn’t handle another traumatic brain injury very well. This was very helpful to read to make me wonder why I care about what strangers think of me at the gym. I am going to bring a helmet tomorrow to the gym, I am sure to my partner’s dismay LOL. Thanks everyone. 

I ride horses as well as climb and I’ve been saved several times by helmets in that sport. Anyone anti-helmet just hasn’t had a bad day yet. I fully support your helmet ideas and you’re making me consider wearing one at the gym as well. Thanks for the inspo!

Marlee Peterswrote:

I ride horses as well as climb and I’ve been saved several times by helmets in that sport. Anyone anti-helmet just hasn’t had a bad day yet. I fully support your helmet ideas and you’re making me consider wearing one at the gym as well. Thanks for the inspo!

Do you wear a helmet while driving?

My car has built in "helmets," aka airbags. Also driving defensively and distraction free. Most professional racers do in fact wear helmets, so I'm not sure what point you're trying to make here.

Cheers and happy climbing!

Tradibanwrote:

Head injury has decreased, but accidents have increased, so yes from a head trauma perspective helmets are a great thing.

Pointer to source about accidents, per-capita, increasing please?

Numerically, accidents have increased because the population of people doing "action sports" has vastly increased. Maybe that increase in the false confidence to which you are referring? Ie. people never would have taken up whitewater kayaking or mountain biking without the existence of helmets? I'm in Kevin's camp. I've seen some really bad trauma from sports accidents. I've also seen a number of people walk away from bike accidents that might have otherwise brained them because their helmet did its job. I wouldn't wear a helmet gym climbing but I wouldn't negatively judge someone who does. I sometimes see people surfing with helmets and just assume they had a prior TBI and can't afford to deal with another one. 

Don Frijoles wrote:

Fun fact: 

Wearing a helmet in a car equipped with airbags is not recommend by several automotive safety organizations.

Helmet and airbag combination can actually increase risk.

Links?

Check mine out: https://www.cdc.gov/traumaticbraininjury/get_the_facts.html#:~:text=People%20most%20commonly%20get%20TBIs,of%20the%20TBI%2Drelated%20hospitalizations&text=Firearm%2Drelated%20suicide%20is%20the,deaths%20in%20the%20United%20States

A short summary: 

People most commonly get TBIs from a fall, motor vehicle crash, or an assault.

Tradibanwrote:

Links?

Check mine out: https://www.cdc.gov/traumaticbraininjury/get_the_facts.html#:~:text=People%20most%20commonly%20get%20TBIs,of%20the%20TBI%2Drelated%20hospitalizations&text=Firearm%2Drelated%20suicide%20is%20the,deaths%20in%20the%20United%20States

A short summary: 

People most commonly get TBIs from a fall, motor vehicle crash, or an assault.

This doesn't support your claim that traumatic brain injuries have increased. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

This doesn't support your claim that traumatic brain injuries have increased. 

Wait your turn please. That link was for Don F.

In the meantime please just Google it.

Holy moly. It’s a helmet, folks. I was asking for advice not trying to start a turf war- apologies, but let’s try to keep things civil. 

Climbing Weaselwrote:

Holy moly. It’s a helmet, folks. I was asking for advice not trying to start a turf war- apologies, but let’s try to keep things civil. 

It's MP man what did you think was going to happen.

Tradibanwrote:

Kevin Worrall wrote:

I haven’t paid the same dues for mtb as I have climbing, and I don’t have time to, Tradi. Plus, going OTB puts the melon directly in jeopardy.

Tradiban wrote:

Are you saying that skill equals safety??

Tim McCabe wrote:

Mountain bikers wear helmets on their heads, if they had made them old school climbers would have worn ankle helmets. 

If your not riding fast enough to crash, many would say your not really riding, so most everybody riding wears a helmet.

You'll never see a pro DH racer without full face and full armor, how often do you see top climbers not wearing helmets. hint all the time.

Tim McCabewrote:

It's MP man what did you think was going to happen.

I’m new to the forums; was not expecting this level of grumpiness. 

Climbing Weaselwrote:

I’m new to the forums; was not expecting this level of grumpiness. 

The grumpiest troll is the one have the most fun.

It's the same at Mountain bike forums with downhill v cross country. 

This place is good for a laugh, and if you look you did get your answer. Yes, you just need to get the right type for it to be effective.   

Climbing Weaselwrote:

I’m new to the forums; 

welcome to hell

was not expecting this level of grumpiness. 

don't worry, the stockholm syndrome will kick in at some point and you'll start to appreciate some sorts of grumpiness

Over 250,000 people have major accidents in the shower/getting in the shower/ getting out of the shower every year. Helmets in the shower- save a life or will it make shower lovers take too many risks?

M Mwrote:

Over 250,000 people have major accidents in the shower/getting in the shower/ getting out of the shower every year. Helmets in the shower- save a life or will it make shower lovers take too many risks?

You've got this all wrong. Just eliminate ALL risk by never showering.