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Easiest Ground-up, hand drilled route?

Original Post
Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Title asks the question. What’s the easiest route done in this style? Not trying to ruffle M-Cat's fur or anything, but oh what a collection it must be. This does not have to be OF ALL TIME, just the ones in your neck of the woods... you would let even your sibling climb.  : - )   Case in point: Aoxomoxoa

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

If you allow power drilling I put up a 50m 5.6 last weekend all drilled from stances. 

Not too many folks rocking the hand drills these days. I own one and have used it but putting up an entire route hand drilling in quartzite sounds like a special kind of Sisyphean hell to me. 

Costanoan in Pinnacles is 4 pitches of glorious 5.4 climbing. Pretty sure that's all hand drilled on lead out there. 

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Good point Ricky. Hand drilled where applicable, power drill anywhere else. 

Evan LovleyMeyers · · Seattle · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 330

Are these supposed to me bolted routes or just bolted anchors?  I have been on and put up several multi pitch 5.6-5.9 alpine trad lines with hand dripped ground up anchors.

Kevin Worrall · · La Jolla, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 264

FA of pitch 2 of Noob Generations, 5.7 PG, 400 ft of continuous 5.5 with a few 5.7 cruxes, perfect rock, Noob Dome, secret spot, San Diego backcountry

The Noob Dimensions corner is visible in the upper left, 5.4 all gear, 400 ft.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/113406457/emigrant-wall

this place, for sure. hopefully done ground up?

It's a mix but mostly done ground up. The easiest ones are all ground up I think. 

Honestly the 5.5 there is easier than the 5.4 at Pinnacles thinking about it, so that's probably the best answer so far for this thread. 

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Greg Barnes · · American Safe Climbing Asso… · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,786

Half Dome cables route - George Anderson, 1875.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

there’s a lot of east 5th-5.4 there that’s called 5.6-5.7

Sort of like certain gyms with their “5.10s”. 

Greg Barnes · · American Safe Climbing Asso… · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,786
Don Frijoles wrote:

I've never done it free, but I've been told by those who have tried that it's harder than expected.

That's because it's hella polished, you can just walk down it in sticky rubber if you're outside the cables (skier's right). Might be an overlap or two that would be tricky 4th though (assuming there were no cables and you were climbing up). Of course "Sierra 4th class" includes many routes that are way the heck harder than 5.0...

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24
PWZ wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106803783/carpet-slabber

Ha, looks like the final pitch on some many of the Whitehorse Ledge routes. : -  ) )

Some One · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Strong contender and 2 pitches of glory! https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105888037/clip-a-dee-doo-dah

Kevin Worrall · · La Jolla, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 264

 Originally listed as a "sport" climb, probably because the only protection is the bolts, I re-assigned it as a trad climb lest one make the effort of the approach to find the run out a bit too "sporty". R Hall NH Admin.

Quoted from the MP description of Carpet Slabber, 5.4


OMG THERE’S HOPE!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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