Ouray Ice Park: A Lament for What Was (and general observations on changing attitudes)

C H wrote:

I always do. But I'm from an older generation where you give a heads up,  whether it's ice you are knocking off,  a rock you've pulled loose,  or even a nut or can that you've dropped.  It's simple courtesy, something that seems lacking in our Instagram age

"I don’t want to hear a call of “ICE!!!” unless the whole climb is falling down. Yelling “Ice” while ice climbing is like yelling “PUCK!” in a hockey game or something, it’s part of the sport." -Will Gadd

https://willgadd.com/ice-breaks-dont-be-in-the-way-of-it-as-it-falls/

(Edit: Just pointing out that folks have different perspectives on calling "ice" and it's not a simple matter of "kids these days with their social media and pocket computers.")

I don't think this is an ice park-specific problem, CO ice in general is a madhouse until you start climbing hard enough stuff to keep the gumby circus at bay, you are for sure going to see plenty of crowding at Camp bird (AKA Ice Park West) or dexter on the weekend. FWIW the ice park has been less crowded this year than the last couple of years based on the number of climbers VS open anchors...

As to the etiquette, the park is where most people now go to learn everything including etiquette, lots of first days on ice, and why not struggle bus up hard stuff thats' relatively safe, you will learn way more about what actually works that way than climbing endless pitches of WI2 that teach you nothing about how to actually climb steep ice.  go to the park and get in more pitches in a week than you could in 5 years following someone in the backcountry, it's a net win for the community to have more competent climbers... also, personally, I'd be driven insane if everyone at the park was yelling "ice" every time they knocked down something, and it would also lose all effectiveness and just become background noise, better to yell when there is actually a problem the belayer needs to know about...

As a local I can also say that there are a lot of discussions ongoing on how to improve the user experience, and a large part of that is how to deal with the crowding, that said, I think unfortunately the days of wide open park for everyone are pretty much gone, the public has a say in what goes on though, take the time to write the OIPI board if you have constructive ideas, guaranteed that will have a far larger inpact than complaining on MP...

It’s a famous, popular ICE PARK. I’m sorry that you didn’t like the crowds but what did you expect?  

If you want seclusion maybe try one of the several dozen naturally occurring WI within a couple of hours of Ouray.  Of course you’ll have to actually hike in, head, or set your own anchors. 

I'm only 60 yrs old so I probably don't qualify as old school in your book. I put my belayer in a safe spot and only yell ice if something really big happens. Otherwise I prefer to hear the wind and the waves, not some wanker hollering every time they swing a tool. 

The real lament of all these convenient ice parks everywhere and all the accessible modern gear, is that every college kid who joins the outing club is now leading chandeliered WI5 M6 by his/her second season.   Even the Gumbys are getting hard  

Ah, sounds like Smith on any day of the week.

I'm very, very grateful - and very lucky, as well - that I was able to experience many climbing areas in a way that is impossible now. Things change, and I have to change, too. 

Ouray is a total shit show. I liked it when I was learning to climb ice. Now I avoid it like the plague. Besides, the ice there kinda sucks imo (super unconsolidated and aerated). My partner and I talk frequently about how the front range would substantially benefit from an ice park. Fremont canyon would be even more sick if it were a park. Rock in the spring/fall, ice in the winter  

Also, don’t expect to go climbing in Colorado on the weekend within a few minutes of a trailhead and experience solitude. Learned that one a long time ago 

Ben B wrote:

Also, don’t expect to go climbing in Colorado on the weekend within a few minutes of a trailhead and experience solitude. Learned that one a long time ago 

Nah, it's entirely doable, you just have to go where the crowds ain't. I.e., seek out the obscure over the classics

Aaron K wrote:

Nah, it's entirely doable, you just have to go where the crowds ain't. I.e., seek out the obscure over the classics

Re-read his post.   You are agreeing with him.

Ben B wrote:

Ouray is a total shit show. I liked it when I was learning to climb ice. Now I avoid it like the plague. Besides, the ice there kinda sucks imo (super unconsolidated and aerated).   

At last the dirty little secret is revealed. I think that shitty farmed ice is actually a good thing. If it convinces the crowds that that is what they can expect everywhere, we won't be meeting them in the backcountry any time soon.

Paul Morrison wrote:

At last the dirty little secret is revealed. I think that shitty farmed ice is actually a good thing. If it convinces the crowds that that is what they can expect everywhere, we won't be meeting them in the backcountry any time soon.

The crowds probably like the crappy ice because it’s easier to swing into. 

Ben B wrote:

The crowds probably like the crappy ice because it’s easier to swing into. 

I like the bullet proof ice around Lake Superior. I can’t believe how much plastic ice there is in Colorado. 

never seen a modern  photo of plastic ice in CO . all i see is dried up picked out hookfests...  I think you actually need water to get plastic ice.... 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

never seen a modern  photo of plastic ice in CO . all i see is dried up picked out hookfests...  I think you actually need water to get plastic ice.... 

I’ve seen ‘em and climbed ‘em. Went from a WI2 to a WI3 almost overnight.   

It’s appropriate this is in general climbing because it relates to all climbing, except runout slab. The world got very busy very quickly. But there is still lots of areas with no crowds. Maybe we should stop making guidebooks. Or stop posting route descriptions on MP. Make people sniff it out themselves… just an idea. 

How about keeping some perspective: https://ourayicepark.com/history

In 1991, Bill Whitt, a California windsurfing bum turned ice climber, and local attorney turned real estate developer Gary Wild bought a hotel together in Ouray called the Victorian Inn. They dreamed up the Ouray Ice Park as a way to drum up winter business. But before they could start farming ice, they had to get the blessing of Eric Jacobson, the owner of the Ouray Hydroelectric Plant, who owned an easement right through the Uncompahgre Gorge.

Bill Whitt and Gary Wild’s effort to “farm” ice attracted enough attention that in 1997 Ouray Ice Park, Inc. (OIPI) was officially established to organize the Ouray Ice Park. 25 years later OIPI has continued to improve the Park’s plumbing system, increase access to new terrain in the Gorge, and finance and maintain extensive infrastructure throughout the Park. The Ouray Ice Park currently has over one mile of vertical terrain and over 100 ice and mixed climbs stretching along the Uncompahgre Gorge.

Each winter, OIPI hosts the Ouray Ice Festival to celebrate the Park and raise funds for its operation. Despite the high cost of its maintenance, the Park remains free and open for public use. In over 20 years of operation, it has become one of the premier ice climbing venues in the world.

Putting it mildly, Ouray Ice Park is totally man-made, 100% artificial, and was envisioned as an outdoor gym from before it was created. Quite conflating it with natural areas.

Marc801 C wrote:

How about keeping some perspective: https://ourayicepark.com/history

Putting it mildly, Ouray Ice Park is totally man-made, 100% artificial, and was envisioned as an outdoor gym from before it was created. Quite conflating it with natural areas.

Yeah, but the crowds!

Tradiban wrote:

How did ice climbing become so noobified?

Seems too spicy for the muggles yet they flock to it.

Well it’s an center park, with all farmed ice, created to act as outdoor gym.

What did you expect noob?