Ultimate South East Road Trip Itinerary?

Hello!

My wife and I are planning a 4-6 week roadtrip down the East coast starting in NY - headed as far south as we want, but think Asheville may be an end goal. The trip is focused on climbing.
Sport, trad, bouldering, a little bit of everything.

We haven’t climbed much around there and know nothing beyond what we see in media (Gunks, New, Looking Glass, Chattanooga).
We’d love recommendations on anything you know or love!
small local bouldering areas to famous crowded sport crags. Secluded, out-there camp spots (we have a vehicle that we will be staying in) to the best burrito you’ve ever had, to a good place to take the dog for a run, we want all the betas! (But mostly the climbing betas)

thank you!

Damis Yancopouloswrote:

Hello!

My wife and I are planning a 4-6 week roadtrip down the East coast starting in NY - headed as far south as we want, but think Asheville may be an end goal. The trip is focused on climbing.
Sport, trad, bouldering, a little bit of everything.

We haven’t climbed much around there and know nothing beyond what we see in media (Gunks, New, Looking Glass, Chattanooga).
We’d love recommendations on anything you know or love!
small local bouldering areas to famous crowded sport crags. Secluded, out-there camp spots (we have a vehicle that we will be staying in) to the best burrito you’ve ever had, to a good place to take the dog for a run, we want all the betas! (But mostly the climbing betas)

thank you!

You'll get tons of answers on the climbing destinations (although IMHO Asheville is not really very far south for a stopping destination), but the best burritos in climbing locations in the east are Mexicali Blue in New Paltz, NY and Hellbender in Davis, WV.  Also, try not to miss White Duck Tacos (several locations in SE TN and NC, including Asheville).

Linville gorge nc for Stellar adventure climbing 

Also looking glass , Moore’s wall,
rumbling bald nc,
Stone Mountain nc if you like run out slab, with good bouldering at the base.

Have a great trip!

Seneca Rocks

Umm….new river gorge - best climbing in the SE

Laurel knob in NC is the tallest cliff on this side of the country. It’s good climbing if you are okay with runout. 

Not stopping at the NEW and the RED would be a mistake IMO. Plus you have Obed/Denny/Foster/Little River Canyon for Sport, T wall and Sunset for trad, Stonefort/HP40/Rocktown for Bouldering.

You may want to provide a time frame for when you are planning this trip.

Certain areas in the Southeast are quite seasonal in nature...not saying climbing can't be had year around but...just for example:

Stone Mountain: south facing slab, can be an oven but just 50 miles away Moore's Wall is north facing trad crag that can be tolerable in high temps (and even pleasant if the humidity/dew points cooperate).  

You gotta stop by the Red. Stay at Miguel’s Pizza (campground & hostel) if you’re into socializing with other climbers and want to be in a central location to all the crags or opt for dispersed camping in the North Gorge (you’ll need to get an overnight parking pass at one of the gas stations in Slade) if you want some peace and quiet. If you car camp in the North Gorge you can park your vehicle by Swift Camp Creek and have great access to a few great crags including Eastern Sky Bridge and Funk Rock City. These crags have both stellar trad and sport options ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.14a- the hardest gear route in the Red is at Eastern: “Silently does the sun Shine”.

If you’re wanting the full RRG sport climbing experience, you’ll have to head south of Miguels to the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, or Muir Valley. These areas are privately owned by the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition and Friends of Muir Valley respectively. Very high concentrations of climbing in these areas on very good stone. No entrance fee at PMRP or MFRP, $10 parking fee at Muir and they don’t allow dogs-bummer. There are other climbing areas that are worth checking out including Roadside Crag, The Zoo, and Lady Slipper. These crags are closest to Mig’s and have short approaches off the main road HWY 11.

Sorry I don’t have more info about other climbing destinations but if you want cheap resources (food, accommodation, etc.), thousands of routes with very easy access, and very high quality rock, the Red is all of those things. ALSO: dont fear rainy conditions! Plenty of crags are either overhung or protected by roofs so they stay dry in a downpour!

MP Merchant wrote:

Don't go to Davis, WV for Hellbender burritos. They are yummy, and everyone around there LOOOOOOOves them, but they are a low 8 out of 10 high 7. Not a south west burrito either, which is not a bad thing but don't expect Al Pastor and radishes. That being said, go to Davis because Davis is tight as fuck. The other towns near Davis are cool too but just not as artsy/hip. 

Are you saying Hellbenders is a 7+ lol? There's a new taco joint right of the Purple Fiddle in Thomas that is great. And yes, come to Seneca and the NRG. I live at Seneca, so message me if you want rock beta, but most importantly weather beta.

Another good place to check out is Breaks park in SW Virginia 

Also the Gunks is not the south east. 

The southeast definitely has some interesting climbing that makes it unique. It’s a shame the weather sucks 

-Yosemite style aid climbs: North side Looking glass
-Granite Eyebrows: Nose area looking glass 
-Scary multipitch water grooves: Laurel Knob
-Easy multipitch water grooves: South Side Cedar rock
-Steep Sandstone: Foster Falls, Denny Cove
-Sharp granite bouldering: Boat rock
-An outdoor gym: Sandrock

I’m not from the south, though have climbed there a bit over the years, but I do want to emphasize something that has been suggested by a few other posters, but not discussed in any detail—weather and conditions. While the “southeast” covers a very wide area, one commonality is that, with a few exceptions, heat and, especially, humidity are dominating factors from June into September ( sometimes starting earlier and ending later). Basically these conditions, accompanied by abundant insect life, dense and often prickly vegetation and snakes, make climbing in most southern locales highly unpleasant during that time of year ( there are exceptions, such as Shiprock in North Carolina, but not enough of them to make an extended road trip from afar at that time of year worthwhile).

While conditions during the winter, especially at some of the more southern and low-lying areas ( such as Rumbling Bald and Sauratown),can be excellent, still many of the most classic areas, especially those in the mountains or in the more northern parts of the region ( including both the New and Red River Gorges), are going to have only a limited number of good climbing days at that time of year.

So, if you have flexibility in planning when you go, as in so much of the US, spring or, even better, fall are the best times of year for such a trip ( though, even then, be prepared for potential periods of significant precipitation).

As far, as where to go, there are so many options it really depends if you want to have a ‘sampler’ and visit as many diverse areas as possible or concentrate on a few areas to really get a good feel for each of them.

You say that you plan on starting in NY and the Gunks ( great area but not at all part of the southeast). From there you will have to drive through New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Maryland—all of which gave some climbing but none really worthy of making a detour (I’m sure the locals will disagree and tell you of the places that would be worth your stopping at). At that point you will have a choice to either head west to West Virginia ( Seneca Rocks and the New River—stopping off at Cooper’s Rocks in the very northeastern part of the state en route—-it is short but quality and just off the Interstate highway—it has it’s own exit) and on to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky or of heading directly south into Virginia. Virginia is another state with a number of climbing areas, but no major destinations—though roped climbing at Hidden Valley and Breaks Interstate Park and bouldering at Grayson Highlands are becoming increasingly well-known.

Continuing further south you’ll hit a jackpot in North Carolina with many granite domes, such as Stone Mountain in the Piedmont and Looking Glass, Laurel Knob, Whitesides and many others in the mountains ( bring you ‘head’ for long runouts on many routes). There are also excellent quartzite crags such as at Moores Wall, Sauratown ( only open for certain months), and Linville Gorge and metamorphic rocks at places such as Shiprock and the other cliffs near Boone. 

Another ‘jackpot’ is in Tennesse—especially around Chattanooga, with sandstone being the main climbing medium, with trad climbing at such places as the Tennessee Wall and sport at Foster Falls, Denny Cove, and other places. Further west in the state there is also extensive climbing in the Obed Gorge.

There is also significant climbing in nearby areas of Georgia, Alabama, and South Carolina, plenty of top-class bouldering all through the region as well.

Hopefully this will get you started.

Thanks everyone! These suggestions are a great starting point.

I grew up nearby New Paltz/Gunks, which is why we are starting there - visiting family.

Regarding weather, we figured late march through april/may would give us the best chance of good temps (we know we’ll have rain days but like to run and have a dog so don’t mind the forced days off).

Let me know if anyone thinks otherwise!

Damis if it’s really cold,

Like 50s or below for a high temperature,

Big rock South Carolina and pumpkin town are stellar 

I’d highly recommend linville gorge (shortoff mountain) for some absolutely incredible trad climbing. asheville is great. looking glass is great. if you want a mix of sport and trad, chattanooga is great (T wall is perfect in the winter). 

The climbing in the south is sub par.  

Echoing what others have said above, I’ll provide my top choices for the DEEP South, so excluding new/red/seneca

Bouldering: All around Chatt, Rocktown, Rumbling bald, if you go further south, don’t miss HP40.

Sport: Obed, Denny Cove, or Little river canyon, AL.

Trad: Linville is premier in terms of adventure, looking glass for steepness. But do not miss T wall. As a georgian, I am biased, but Tallulah Gorge has some of the best full on trad and mixed climbing I’ve ever experienced. Permits are hit or miss depending on weather, but if it’s been dry for a week before, you’ll have a good shot. 

I noticed a lot of people mentioning Linville gorge but I also saw you mentioned having a dog. Linville, including shortoff mountain, is generally not a good place to bring a dog, because most of the climbs are walk offs or you rappel to access them. So if you really want to make Linville happen you’ll have to either be able to stuff your pup in a backpack or get someone to watch them. Or just go for the hiking and daydream about the climbing! It is an awesome place to hike with dogs 

Sydney Copelandwrote:

I noticed a lot of people mentioning Linville gorge but I also saw you mentioned having a dog. Linville, including shortoff mountain, is generally not a good place to bring a dog, because most of the climbs are walk offs or you rappel to access them. So if you really want to make Linville happen you’ll have to either be able to stuff your pup in a backpack or get someone to watch them. Or just go for the hiking and daydream about the climbing! It is an awesome place to hike with dogs 

Hawksbill is mostly rap/lower and is generally dog friendly (as much as a crag can be anyway)

I've had more burritos at Mexicali Blue in New Paltz than I could count, but I can't really see it as a "destination" burrito.